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post #1 of 31 Old 02-27-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Opinion: How would you handle

Lot's of you here that do this for a living so curious how you would handle this situation. I've included a couple of photos to help.

But the gist is I am building and installing a built in cabinet between to walls. Note that in the picture the cabinet is just test fit. Once installed it will slide back about 2" and go between walls. The Toe kick has a decorative tapered foot detail to make the cabinet look like a piece of furniture. The toe kick it's self will be a piece of white oak to match the floor and help with the illusion.

The problem is on on side I will be wrapping my baseboard around. The base cap will dead end into the face frame.. No prob. But the lower section of base will go under the face frame and dead end into the foot detail. My choices are to either:


1. Scoot the lft foot toward the center of the cabinet so the base can clear behind. Problem with this is the foot position will now not match the opposite foot. The opposite foot cant' be scooted because no baseboard is coming in on that side.

-or-

2. I could have the base dead end into the foot as it will into the face frame. Now the feet are even on either side but 3/4 of the foot (which is only 1.75" at bottom) will be covered by the baseboard.

Welcome suggestions and opinions.
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post #2 of 31 Old 02-27-2013, 12:19 PM
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or, don't apply the baseboard on the left inside wall. end it on the front wall with a mitered return. if you don't install base on the right, you can leave it off the left. just maybe a shoe mould on the floor to cover wall/floor crack.
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post #3 of 31 Old 02-27-2013, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
or, don't apply the baseboard on the left inside wall. end it on the front wall with a mitered return. if you don't install base on the right, you can leave it off the left. just maybe a shoe mould on the floor to cover wall/floor crack.
Not a bad suggestion at all. I will certainly consider that. Thanks!

Anyone else???
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post #4 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 12:17 AM
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Seems that ending the base board against the foot detail would not look natural as that would not be the case with a freely movable piece of furniture. Ending the baseboard short as suggested makes sense or, gasp... don't add the foot detail. Seems that only us woodworkers (if I may humbly include myself) notice those exquisite details.

On second thought, it looks like the left wall is narrow. If that's the case, Maybe a quarter round on the front left wall and left cabinet side will do the trick. Bevel the quarter round just shy of the foot detail. No base board.

Nice looking cabinet by the way. What are you planning to use for the top?
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post #5 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 12:22 AM
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Looking at the picture again, the wall seems to look fine without anything at all. Maybe all you need is some touch up paint and a little wood-colored caulk.
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post #6 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Marcol View Post
Seems that ending the base board against the foot detail would not look natural as that would not be the case with a freely movable piece of furniture. Ending the baseboard short as suggested makes sense or, gasp... don't add the foot detail. Seems that only us woodworkers (if I may humbly include myself) notice those exquisite details.

On second thought, it looks like the left wall is narrow. If that's the case, Maybe a quarter round on the front left wall and left cabinet side will do the trick. Bevel the quarter round just shy of the foot detail. No base board.

Nice looking cabinet by the way. What are you planning to use for the top?
Thanks. I think I'm going to need a baseboard. But I may end it with the mitered return and use a shoe or quarter round into the leg.

I could leave the leg out but I really like that detail. And I already have the legs and toe kick made and finished. So I'm committed.

The top is going to be some reclaimed pine that was sheething pulled off my house when the addition was done. I have a build thread here: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/b...-thread-48369/ With a lot more pics if you're interested.
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post #7 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 09:33 AM
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A couple of thoughts. Built ins or inset cabinets don't usually have decorative legs. I can't tell from the picture if the face of the rock is on the same frontal plane as the left wall. But, I would return the base on the left and have it end (butt) against the toe kick, and dead end the base on the right to start at the front and butt to the toe kick as on the left. If that isn't done on the right it may look unfinished. That could be the end of it.

Or, if you are bent on the legs, just apply them at both ends and they will be spaced evenly.





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post #8 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
A couple of thoughts. Built ins or inset cabinets don't usually have decorative legs. I can't tell from the picture if the face of the rock is on the same frontal plane as the left wall. But, I would return the base on the left and have it end (butt) against the toe kick, and dead end the base on the right to start at the front and butt to the toe kick as on the left. If that isn't done on the right it may look unfinished. That could be the end of it.

Or, if you are bent on the legs, just apply them at both ends and they will be spaced evenly.












.
To answer your question, the face of the stone is not on the same plane as the face of the left wall. It's set about 1" further back. I don't think I can do ANY base on the right as there would be almost nothing to apply it to. The face frame of the cab will set back so that only the stone is exposed beyond it on the right.

Conversly, I will have the same problem on the cabinet going in to the right of the Fireplace. No baseboard on left for that one, but baseboard running in perpedicular on the right. See larger picture. There is a door in front of that green carpet on the right. So there will be about an 18" piece of base running from the door casing toward the built in on the right side of the right hand cabinet.

And yes... I kinda bent on the legs although I won't put them in if I'm convinced it'll look like crap. Trying to find a way make it work.
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post #9 of 31 Old 02-28-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LearnByDoing View Post
To answer your question, the face of the stone is not on the same plane as the face of the left wall. It's set about 1" further back. I don't think I can do ANY base on the right as there would be almost nothing to apply it to. The face frame of the cab will set back so that only the stone is exposed beyond it on the right.

Conversly, I will have the same problem on the cabinet going in to the right of the Fireplace. No baseboard on left for that one, but baseboard running in perpedicular on the right. See larger picture. There is a door in front of that green carpet on the right. So there will be about an 18" piece of base running from the door casing toward the built in on the right side of the right hand cabinet.

And yes... I kinda bent on the legs although I won't put them in if I'm convinced it'll look like crap. Trying to find a way make it work.
You could do a mock up just to see. The base I suggested could just have a 45° bevel on the end at the front of the stone. Once those sections are in place they won't move on their own. You could just use a dab of Liquid Nail on the back.





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post #10 of 31 Old 03-03-2013, 11:46 AM
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Get rid of the toekick detail. Problem solved. Unless I'm seeing this wrong
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post #11 of 31 Old 03-04-2013, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Get rid of the toekick detail. Problem solved. Unless I'm seeing this wrong
Great idea... Or I could get rid of the whole cabinet and just run baseboard. Sorry, don't mean to be smart but I realize I could leave the whole thing off. I'm trying to figure out how to make it work because I like the look.
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post #12 of 31 Old 03-04-2013, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LearnByDoing View Post
Great idea... Or I could get rid of the whole cabinet and just run baseboard. Sorry, don't mean to be smart but I realize I could leave the whole thing off. I'm trying to figure out how to make it work because I like the look.
I think Windy is right on. You want it to look like furniture, install the legs and not the toe kick.
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post #13 of 31 Old 03-04-2013, 09:13 PM
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Nice room, is that second floor?
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post #14 of 31 Old 03-04-2013, 10:45 PM
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Can you move the legs in a couple of inches? Legs often are not lined up on the corners. Spacing would still be off with the baseboard but I think it would look better. The other options would look kind of odd. In fact I think if you got some nice turned round legs and split them it might look pretty good that way.
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post #15 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I think Windy is right on. You want it to look like furniture, install the legs and not the toe kick.
Thanks, I guess I didn't understand the suggestion. That is a possibility although I like the utility of a toe kick. But the other issue as I pointed out is that the cabinet is going to be recessed into that nook buy about 2". So toe kick or not, I still have to figure out how best to apply the baseboard.
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post #16 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Can you move the legs in a couple of inches? Legs often are not lined up on the corners. Spacing would still be off with the baseboard but I think it would look better. The other options would look kind of odd. In fact I think if you got some nice turned round legs and split them it might look pretty good that way.
This is definitely an option. In fact. I plan on "playing aroung" with the pieces before final install to see what it looks like and this is something I want to try. I already fab'd the tapered foot so I'm going with that. But cutting a turned bunn foot would also look cool.
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post #17 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Nice room, is that second floor?
No, it's my first floor family room. But it's above my walkout basement. It's a great room. I can't wait to get the built-ins installed. Just looking for more time to work on them.
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post #18 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 12:03 PM
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Good luck, I'm sure it will look good, looks great so far!
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post #19 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 12:26 PM
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You've gotten a few options that could work. However it comes down to what your happy with.

I run into options like this occasionally and no matter if its the wife or any one of my uncles that are in the trade, someone usually says something like this. "It's such a small area no one will notice and if they do so what if your happy with it. I also usually hear that people don't walk in looking at stuff like that. ". My response is I do walk in and look at the craftsmanship of everything in a house so I would probably notice it. seriously though find what your happy with because it really is a small area that may never be noticed by anyone. Unless I visit.
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post #20 of 31 Old 03-05-2013, 01:03 PM
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I would put a toekick on it even if you put a decorative legs on it. It will be nearly impossible to keep the floor clean. You could paint the toekick black so it really doesn't show up.

I'm puzzled with the depth of the cabinet. I normally make the cabinet to where it recesses at least an inch from the corner of the rock. That way the counter top doesn't protrude past the wall. With what you have the counter top will protrude past the stone.
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