Oak Crown moulding: unique fastener requirement - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 07-17-2014, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Oak Crown moulding: unique fastener requirement

hello,

1st time poster here. I live in Albuquerque.

I'm installing solid oak crown moulding in our LR. This is a 60 year old house with plaster walls/ceiling and cinder block outside walls. I've dry cut most of the moulding: corners and joints look very nice.

I glued a furring strip at joint of wall and ceiling around entire perimeter to secure the moulding: using 2-3.5 in finishing nails (inserting them by hand: no pneumatic nailer). The problem: the ceiling height varies by as much as 1 inch, leaving large gaps between top of moulding and and ceiling in many places. This has left me with 2 challenges, suggestions for which is why I'm posting:

1) I'm not satisfied with how secure the molding is on top. Measured horizontally from the wall to outer surface of the moulding where it meets the ceiling is about 2 1/4 in. I would like to use a finishing nail on the top lip of the moulding into the top of the wall. Nailing a finishing nail directly into the wall about 1/2 below the ceiling, I found it must go into the wall at least 2 inches before it grabs well. Thus, I'm trying to find a finishing nail long enough: at least 4.5 inches. Longest I can find is 3.5.

I found one on Google this morning here:
http://www.concrete-nails.com/concre...ing-nails.html
emailed them and am awaiting a response for availability.

I'd like to avoid using screws, as counter sink/fill would most certainly detract from the appearance, but this will probably be my solution if I can't find finishing nails I describe.

2) Some of gaps I describe on top of moulding between ceiling I can caulk, but some are just too large. I'm contemplating floating the ceiling in the larger gap areas with layers of drywall mud. Wondering if anyone has better suggestions however, and an inch thick area filled with this material makes me a little nervous about cracking over time.

Can take some photos and post them if this will help anyone conceptualize what I describe.

Thanks
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post #2 of 4 Old 07-17-2014, 12:23 PM
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when i encounter "difficult to nail" crown moulding situations, i install a triangular shaped nailer. this is just undersized from the triangular void behind the crown moulding. i nail/glue/screw this nailer up as much as possible until its solid. then i nail the crown to it, and any other available nailable surface.

i've seen gaps similar to yours, some people leave them. some people lower the crown 6-8 inches for an accent look.
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post #3 of 4 Old 07-17-2014, 01:03 PM
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We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retired…from what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post.

This is the way I install. I mount an angled nailer to the wall, and then small finish nails will attach the crown.
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post #4 of 4 Old 07-18-2014, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for both your replies.

TimPA: lowering crown is not an option. I did glue a nailer up all the way around. Given unforgiving (does not bend/twist like cheaper synthetic crown) nature of our moulding & varying surface of the wall (as well as ceiling), the longest finishing nail available locally (3.5 in) just does not secure my crown the way I want.

CabinetMan: the nailer I cut is not as big as yours (mine is about 2 inches across it's face), perhaps I should have cut it bigger... although I'm not sure that would solve problem I describe.

I've looked all over, done some Googling of nail manufacturer and contacted a few of them. These guys:

www.specialtynail.com

... got back with me, and one of their reps is sending me a few "headless fence stake" nails they made in a special run, to see if they work. At .178 in diameter, they're small enough to not leave a big footprint to countersink/fill, and they are long enough to make it through Crown >> Plaster to the top-plate to get the "bite" needed to hold that moulding securely.

Think I'll give them a try. Will take a few photos and post them here over the weekend.

Thanks again.
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