need pocket hole advice - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
View cuneiform's Photo Album My Photos
need pocket hole advice

i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.

the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.

the cabs also will have undercabinet lighting.

it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?

thanks,
drew
cuneiform is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 01:41 AM
John
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: La Crosse, Kansas
Posts: 3,028
View jschaben's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuneiform View Post
i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.

the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.

the cabs also will have undercabinet lighting.

it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?

thanks,
drew

Hi drew - Well, I guess they're your cabinets so it's really up to what's acceptable to you.
Personally, I don't care for the look of pockets, plugged or otherwise. I suppose plugged and painted wouldn't bother me but I think they detract from the overall look. Just my tuppence
jschaben is offline  
post #3 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 04:04 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Whittier, CA. USA
Posts: 344
View jlord's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuneiform View Post
i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.

the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.

the cabs also will have undercabinet lighting.

it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?

thanks,
drew
Hi Drew,
I would say go ahead. Since you are going to have under cab lighting install light rail trim along the bottom of the upper cabs. You will not see any pocket screws. They will be up under the recess in the bottom. To see them you would have to stick your head up under there on purpose. Under normal use they would not be seen. You would not even have to plug them up if you don't want to.

The cabs below were constructed with tongue & groove & pocket screws. Open them up & you cannot see any pocket screws. Even the two cabs with glass doors & shelf on end are stained on inside & you can not see any pocket screws in the construction.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Fernview Kitchen 003 Large Web view.jpg
Views:	358
Size:	74.4 KB
ID:	25048  

Attached Images
 

James
Whittier, CA.

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should!
jlord is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 04:11 AM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuneiform View Post
the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.

it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?

thanks,
drew
Face frames can be just glued and clamped to the case leading edge. People do look under upper cabinets, and might even clean under there. They are visible if dining seating is anywhere near the kitchen. If you call them "high end" custom cabinets, they should be constructed that way. Sorry if I offend anyone, but we all have our own opinions on what constitutes "custom", and "high end".








.
cabinetman is offline  
post #5 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 06:06 AM
OLD DUDE AT WORK
 
H. A. S.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 1,460
View H. A. S.'s Photo Album My Photos
Yeah, I would fill the holes. Even cleaning with a rag will catch on splinters. You'll feel better about it.

Harrison, at your service!
H. A. S. is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old 06-06-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
View cuneiform's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for all the responses. Ya, after thinking about it, I don't think I'd be comfortable with leaving the holes exposed. Even if no-one sticks their head under there, I'd still know they're there.

Thanks for the advice.
cuneiform is offline  
post #7 of 21 Old 06-06-2011, 12:41 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Whittier, CA. USA
Posts: 344
View jlord's Photo Album My Photos
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuneiform View Post
Thanks for all the responses. Ya, after thinking about it, I don't think I'd be comfortable with leaving the holes exposed. Even if no-one sticks their head under there, I'd still know they're there.

Thanks for the advice.
Don't forget the finished pictures when they are done

James
Whittier, CA.

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should!

Last edited by jlord; 06-06-2011 at 12:46 PM.
jlord is offline  
post #8 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
View cuneiform's Photo Album My Photos
almost done

heres a pic of one of the uppers. i mentioned earlier in the thread i am spraying white lacquer. also, the tall face frame on top will be covered by crown moulding.
Attached Images
 
cuneiform is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to cuneiform For This Useful Post:
H. A. S. (07-08-2011)
post #9 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 11:22 AM
Senior Member
 
JohnK007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Downers Grove, Illinois
Posts: 1,524
View JohnK007's Photo Album My Photos
Good looking cabinet, Drew. That will be really sharp when painted
JohnK007 is offline  
post #10 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 11:28 AM
Scotty D
 
mdntrdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL.
Posts: 4,479
View mdntrdr's Photo Album My Photos
I like the inset doors with beaded FF.

Very nice!

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

"Like" us on facebook
www.ScottyDsWoodworks.com
Watch Our YouTube Video
mdntrdr is offline  
post #11 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 09:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Whittier, CA. USA
Posts: 344
View jlord's Photo Album My Photos
The cabinet came out very nice Drew I like the style.

James
Whittier, CA.

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should!
jlord is offline  
post #12 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 10:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Woodenhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 256
View Woodenhorse's Photo Album My Photos
Very nice!

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
Woodenhorse is offline  
post #13 of 21 Old 06-09-2011, 11:02 PM
Senior Sawdust Producer
 
Leo G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, Connecticut
Posts: 4,363
View Leo G's Photo Album My Photos
I do it all the time. You can't see it unless you really try.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
Leo G is offline  
post #14 of 21 Old 07-07-2011, 01:09 PM
Senior Member
 
clampman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 163
View clampman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.
There are other options as well. One is to simply use glue for the bottom rail and forget both pocket screws and biscuits.

Another would be to put in a separate bottom, though that would be far more work than simply clamping the bottom rail.

PS: Sorry Cabinetman, I missed your post somehow. I don't understand why so many people think glue is nothing more than icing.

Cheers,
Jim

Experience is something you get only just right after you needed it.
http://www.miterclamp.com

Last edited by clampman; 07-07-2011 at 01:22 PM.
clampman is offline  
post #15 of 21 Old 07-08-2011, 03:43 AM
OLD DUDE AT WORK
 
H. A. S.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 1,460
View H. A. S.'s Photo Album My Photos
Very nice cabinet!

Harrison, at your service!
H. A. S. is offline  
post #16 of 21 Old 07-13-2011, 09:33 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 5
View Dave R's Photo Album My Photos
If I want to hide the pocket screws on the bottom of the cabinet I'll add a 1/4 ply skin. Just glue it on and you can pin nail it also. I make my built-ins with the face frame 1-1/2" or so longer on the bottom to be able to add the finished skin and hide lighting.
Dave

Check out http://www.youtube.com/user/DaveReinholdTV?feature=mhee for tool reviews, new ones added weekly...
Dave R is offline  
post #17 of 21 Old 07-15-2011, 10:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Saint Charles, Illinois (West Burbs of Chicago)
Posts: 1,312
View Tom5151's Photo Album My Photos
IMO you will eventually not even think about the fact that the pocket holes are there. I just made some cabs and attached the FF that way and you cannot see them unless you intentionlly stick you head up under there and look at them. Even if you are sitting in a chair directly in front of them you still can't see them. As someone has said, you could also choose to just forget the pocket holes on the bottom and just glue and clamp there.
Tom5151 is offline  
post #18 of 21 Old 07-15-2011, 12:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 2,993
View TimPa's Photo Album My Photos
sorry, but i can't figure out where you are talking about. i ph the face frame members together, on the back side of course. but sounds like you are going perpindicular to the face frame plane, back into the carcass? is there enough ff thickness to drill that and have it work? how thick is your ff? secial ph jig?

high end imho is not having holes.
TimPa is offline  
post #19 of 21 Old 07-21-2011, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 20
View cuneiform's Photo Album My Photos
looks like i started a big debate here.

i'm surprised the thread is still going. i ended up gluing the face frames on the bottom -- no pocketholes. i do like that better.

the idea of putting 1/4 inch ply across the bottoms is really cool. i'll probably do that next time. scribed to the wall that would ensure a totally smooth, seam-free bottom. thanks!

pictures tomorrow; i'm doing touch up on the lacquer.

thanks for all the responses,
drew
cuneiform is offline  
post #20 of 21 Old 07-28-2011, 02:10 PM
Senior Member
 
clampman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 163
View clampman's Photo Album My Photos
Tim,

A lot of people run pocket holes through the plywood and screw into the backs of the face frames.

I prefer to glue faceframes onto the carcases before the backs go on, making it very easy to clamp them and to clean glue squeezeout.

Cheers,
Jim

Experience is something you get only just right after you needed it.
http://www.miterclamp.com
clampman is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
pocket hole MidGAOutdoor Tips, Tricks, & Homemade Jigs 25 11-03-2011 05:36 PM
Pocket hole jig Handyman General Woodworking Discussion 21 04-14-2011 08:17 AM
pocket hole jig Woodman90 Joinery 12 02-04-2011 03:17 AM
pocket hole dribron General Woodworking Discussion 12 08-29-2010 10:36 PM
Pocket Hole Use Rob Joinery 43 07-31-2007 02:05 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome