Metal Threshold has space beneath it - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 07:08 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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I'm with you

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstange2 View Post
I would still remove, reframe the floor, and reinstall properly.
Because of the dropped center/curve in the sill this seems to be the best answer. The sill should rest on "something" flat and level to properly seal and be structurally strong. Repeated loads over time will pull the threshold from the sealing at the jamb.
Just throwin' this out there...can you reduce the curve by sanding down the sill at each ends near the jamb? Or can you make a Bondo fill to level out the sill? Sometimes it's easier to add than remove. Either way the door comes out. A bandsaw would be a great help in making a tapered shim and that's how I would do it. A little Bondo won't hurt either to bed the thing in.
A batch of thin set maybe? Maybe the sag in the sill and floor could be reduced from underneath by additional support from a beam across the joists jacked in to place? Some of the issue here is structural, another is fitment, and finally aesthetic or will it look good. Lot's of issues if you are not a carpenter. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-08-2011 at 09:01 AM.
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post #42 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 08:45 AM
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I can't remember buying a pre-hung door that included a threshold. Once the jamb is installed and the door is hung, a threshold can be planned. It's at that time to work out all the problems with whatever type threshold is to be used. Whether it's a matter of shimming, or leveling with preparing the wood floor below if wood, or, cement if that's the floor. The installer should have worked out the problems. It's not like it wasn't visible.

I would lay a straightedge on both the sill and the edge of the threshold to see what's out. From the picture it looks like the wood or the edge of the threshold could be out, or both. Hard to tell, as pictures on a monitor aren't always a good perspective.








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post #43 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 09:49 AM
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Jimbow,

I would at least turn the pictures and issue in to the Better Business Bureau and the contractors board and codes if applicable. I assume you paid to have it done right ( I left this loosely open because I run across individuals that are ONLY interested in bottom line (cost) and will tell me "skip whatever just fix it cheap " and that's my SIGN....to educate them what's proper install and finish a proper install bid.

It's this kind of shoddy/sloppy work that is causing "we" the good contractors/remodelers/handyman businesses to have to deal more with the govt than with the project itself. The govt officials add more rules and regulations and hoops to jump through and says we are supposed to "self police" others. It's like most rule and regs in place ... there not stated/in place for the ones who are doing things correctly but for the ones whom don't care about right and wrong or others.

Glad to see some good pics/evidence !!!

Have a Blessed day in Jesus,
Tim
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post #44 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 09:54 AM
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Therma Tru doors have an adjustable threshold cap

Their exterior doors usually have an adjustable cap that seals the gap between the door bottom. The terms sill and threshold are used interchangeably by Therma Tru and others: http://www.bevelkingdoors.com/terminology.php Their installation instructions call for leveling the sill plate as well, then running 3 large beads of sealant. Seems to me this issue is extreme and well beyond the use of sealant. Somethins' not right with the subfloor as far as I can tell. Picture may distort somewhat, but I have a "trained" eye. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #45 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Their exterior doors usually have an adjustable cap that seals the gap between the door bottom. The terms sill and threshold are used interchangeably by Therma Tru and others: http://www.bevelkingdoors.com/terminology.php
I take the "adjustable cap" to be just that, a height adjustor for the threshold. Threshold being an entity of its own, not an interchangeable term. I could be wrong.

I got "mentored" in door installation some time years ago in the last century, by a "doorman". That's all he did all his life, and I was very impressed with his craftsmanship. Now, maybe he could have been wrong, or I misunderstood his technique, but, thresholds get fitted to the jambs, but not fastened thereto.








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post #46 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 12:03 PM
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My Therma Tru doors have an integral threshold

The Exterior doors come as a "unit" with the jambs and threshold all assembled as one unit. I have used these in my house in about 5 locations including a french door. The adjustable cap is part of a sub assembly in this case, some have it, some don't. This video may be helpful to the OP ...but in this case the threshold is a separate wood glue up of different sections, not like the Therma Tru door he has. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...047031,00.html

another explanation : http://www.ehow.com/how_5373860_repa...ill-plate.html

Door threshold in need of a new sill. A door sill plate is at the bottom of every home's entryway. It helps seal off the door from the outside elements as well as provide some protection to the flooring or subfloor in some of the most trafficked areas in a home. Replacing a damaged or rotting door sill is a task most homeowners with a few tools and a moderate amount of carpentry experience can tackle in a few hours.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-08-2011 at 05:59 PM.
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post #47 of 50 Old 07-08-2011, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Very enlightening, my friend

I would really rather not remove the installed pre-hung door. It does function and does not allow water to enter. It is more a matter of firming up the metal piece that connects to the jambs, because it flexs greatly when steped upon. I was thinking of a few well-placed shims to level it . . . and then inject an epoxy of some sort to harden solid beneath the metal piece (sill or threshold?) Or am I just jerking my selfsilly?
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post #48 of 50 Old 08-05-2011, 12:15 PM
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Hello Everyone I have just updated my account here. I welcome all of you.
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post #49 of 50 Old 08-05-2011, 12:15 PM
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Thanks everyone for the sharing the information with us.

Floor levelling
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post #50 of 50 Old 08-07-2011, 07:29 AM
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Jimbow
It sounds like you are not interested or willing to remove and reinstall the door correctly, but want suggestions on a sturdy fix. You mentioned an epoxy....if this a route you want to take start by shimming the door sill completely level and then add a solid bit of epoxy. I would recommend a real epoxy like hilti Re-500. If you fill the void it will harden stronger than the original sill and last forever. You will only have to figure out a way to cover it with something not bright red.

It sounds like you are a pipe fitter, you should be able to find some re-500 on the job site
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