Metal Threshold has space beneath it - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 50 Old 07-06-2011, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Metal Threshold has space beneath it

Had a new Thermatrue door installed, but they left a 3/8" gap between the new metal threshold and the old pitched sill. Is there any thing I might "inject" in that gap to make it solid enough to step on and not flex? They wanted to squeeze caulk in the gap but I didn't like that idea. I figure there must be some sort of gunable substance in there to accomplish the effect of a flat base that they were supposed to use. Any suggestion or idea gladly welcomed.
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post #2 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbow View Post
Had a new Thermatrue door installed, but they left a 3/8" gap between the new metal threshold and the old pitched sill. Is there any thing I might "inject" in that gap to make it solid enough to step on and not flex? They wanted to squeeze caulk in the gap but I didn't like that idea. I figure there must be some sort of gunable substance in there to accomplish the effect of a flat base that they were supposed to use. Any suggestion or idea gladly welcomed.
Is this a contractor or dealer that installed it?
The installation instructions are pretty specific as far as sill pan and required sealant;
http://www.thermatru.com/customer-su...-instructions/

I would think the elastomeric sealer they are recommending would firm up enough not to flex much but that sounds to me like an awfully large gap.

John

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post #3 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

It was a contractor, and the gap is at least 3/8 of an inch. Short of major legal action I am stuck fixing the problem myself. In hindsight I have been advised that the metal threshold must be solid or the jambs will never be properly sealed . . . and will be wicking in water, snow, moisture due to constant flexing where the threshold meets the jambs. If I knew how to attach a photo I could show you my situation.
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post #4 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 03:04 AM
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It was a contractor, and the gap is at least 3/8 of an inch. Short of major legal action I am stuck fixing the problem myself. In hindsight I have been advised that the metal threshold must be solid or the jambs will never be properly sealed . . . and will be wicking in water, snow, moisture due to constant flexing where the threshold meets the jambs. If I knew how to attach a photo I could show you my situation.
I'd recommend taking some quick action, including photos. Contractor should be back redoing the door.

John

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post #5 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbow View Post
It was a contractor, and the gap is at least 3/8 of an inch. Short of major legal action I am stuck fixing the problem myself. In hindsight I have been advised that the metal threshold must be solid or the jambs will never be properly sealed . . . and will be wicking in water, snow, moisture due to constant flexing where the threshold meets the jambs. If I knew how to attach a photo I could show you my situation.

If you can't get satisfaction from the contractor, (been there, done that); fix it yourself. Can you remove just the threshold, without disassembling the whole frame? You could use some good old hardwood and caulk. That way, you will know it's been done right. I'd raise hell with them first.

Harrison, at your service!
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post #6 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 06:13 AM
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Gotta back the truck up just a bit with a question...........if any moisture gets in/around the new alum sill,how is this going to impact the intregrity of the "old pitched sill"?Once that question or condition is calc'd then you can sorta proceed to next step of deciding to completely caulk or wedge with spacing.

Most of those alum sills are an extrusion......their bttms aren't flat.Instead they have vert stiffeners every cpl inches.Sometimes outter edge or lip is wider......just take that into consideration before layin a bead of caulking say,at just the outer edge.....you'll still get flex in middle.Better to fit a taper'd wedge in some instances.

Further....and this should have been a MAJOR factor before install is why an old pc of wood was going to be left under the new sill.It very well could be stout,and better quality than anything avail today(and best to leave)............or it could be that door dick didn't want to be bother'd taking it out?This also should be an influence on how the problems treated.

There could be some other factors that would lean the balance oneway or other in the proper fix.........and it can get a little confusing so will stop here.BW

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post #7 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 06:23 AM
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when we set doors like that we fill the gap with silicone the put a piece of parding stop under the treash hold to support it in the front
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post #8 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 07:38 AM
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Have you paid them yet? If not, make them redo. If you have, it may need taken out and properly prepped before reinstalling. Without seeing it, it is hard to actually say for sure.
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post #9 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 07:49 AM
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Where did you come across this contractor? All contractors report through the state board and mediators are available for issues which contractors an customers cannot agree. If it's a gap and you don't have flex silicone will fix it. If you do have flex the. It should be shimmed then siliconed. It may all have to come out but without a seeing exactly what the issue is I don't know fo sho

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post #10 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 08:08 AM
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Maybe I'm not understanding your situation. Sounds like they installed the new door on top of an existing wooden threshold? That's a big problem and the old threshold should have been removed. There should be a flashing pan or bituminous membrane installed under the new door sill. A filler may be used on top of the flashing if the door sill needs to be higher so the door will clear the floor and/or carpet. The door unit has to be removed and installed properly, don't even think about any type of caulking.
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post #11 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 10:00 AM
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I have installed Therma True doors

Sometimes I completely remove the threshold as in the case of an inside door between a shop and garage so I can roll heavy machines in and out...welder...etc.
Other times I replace the factory threshold with my own design. It's hard to remove as the factory staples are about 2" long.
Based on your post you have 2 choices:
1. get it reinstalled correctly
2. DIY
Without a picture of your exact condition or a diagram with measurements, gaps widths etc it's difficult to recommend a fix.However, based on what I read a combination of sealant, shim then additional sealant (not caulk) should provide support and seal the gap...I donno?
Here's a link to the Therma True installation instructions. There is a "sill pan" option which may have been a better solution in your situation...no pictures...just guessin' bill
http://www.thermatru.com/pdfs/instal...nstruction.pdf

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Photo Help??

I have been trying to attach pics of my situation but seem unable to find a way. Is there an easy solution?
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post #13 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 01:50 PM
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Do you have photobucket or have them on your computer?
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post #14 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pic, if they attach

Two different doors, same installers, same new thresholds installed atop 1930's pitched sill plate, which leaves a gap at the bottom of the front since the rear sits firmly on the hight point of the existing sill plate.
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post #15 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Frustrating

I have the pic in the computer, hit manage attachments (below), saw them listed, hit upload . . . and 15 minutes later it was still uploading . . . then they were all gone. What am I doing wrong?
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post #16 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 02:46 PM
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Size is too big most likely. It is frustrating. Under your account settings for the forum Change download size to tiny.

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post #17 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Even More Frustratimg

I went into my UCP and tried several editable options but did not find anything that would allow me to select "tiny" or any other option that seemed related to my pic size or attachments.
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post #18 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbow
I went into my UCP and tried several editable options but did not find anything that would allow me to select "tiny" or any other option that seemed related to my pic size or attachments.
Settings , posting options ,

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post #19 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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I Plead Stupidity

I cannot find a single entry that addresses that issue. This is seeming more and more like a fourm for computer guys rather than woodworkers.
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post #20 of 50 Old 07-07-2011, 03:30 PM
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attachment size

Open "manage attachments" window
jpg size is 97.7 KB
Max width is 602
Max height is 480

If your pictures exceed those specs they won't "upload"
So, you must use a "resizer" program such as www.getpaint.net

This occurs when a camera is too powerful resolution, such as more than 5MP. I must resize all pictures taken with my 10MP camera, so I don't use it to post here PITA! Either reset your camera resolution...or use a cheap a** camera. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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