Maple burns on end cuts - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-11-2010, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Maple burns on end cuts

I rarely use Maple...

Tinkering in the shop today and noticed that crosscutting small maple pieces were all burning (badly). The new blade is sharp, doesn't burn pine, fir, pywood or MDF, so I am assuming that the maple is the cause.
Also, It doesn't seem to matter if I go fast or slow, chop cut it or use a Sliding compound push cut.
For this particular project, the burn marks can be sanded out, but for future reference, how do you reduce burn on Maple crosscuts?

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-11-2010, 11:25 PM
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maple has a lot of resin in it which is what turns dark brown/black. Sounds like a dull blade.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-12-2010, 01:16 AM
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Ran into the same problem today making a toy Jeep out of hard maple only I burned it on the belt sander. Used too much pressure I suppose. Tried to remove the burns by going from 80 to 120 grit and made it worse! Finally went back to a new 80 grit belt and used a very light touch to get most of it out. Will now have to try and get the rest by hand sanding. Learned my lesson the hard way!
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-12-2010, 02:27 AM
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Better blade?

I've been installing some maple kitchen cabinets lately and some multi-step crown molding. I have a 12" Freud "Diablo" 80 tooth trim blade on my chop saw.. Maple, because it's so hard, wants to pull into the blade while being cut. If I hold the workpiece firmly while cutting, it does not burn the end grain.

I like those Diablo blades. I use them on my Skillsaws, table saws and chop saws. They cut smooth, stay sharp for a long time and are relatively inexpensive.

Bret
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-12-2010, 09:16 PM
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i use a frued blade in my table saw lu82m010. i've cut 2" maple with little effort, if my saw is tuned. your chop saw may need a tune up. imo the other wood u cut isn't as dense and there for tunning your may not be as noticeable. the blade may be sharp and new but it may not be apropriate for the cut. my money is still on a tune
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-14-2010, 08:58 PM
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I just finished cutting some maple stair treads and risers. I used a new blade on my miter saw and the end cuts where perfect. Maple is hard but should cut very clean.
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-15-2010, 02:56 PM
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there are different hardness of maple woods. i have cut some fine and dandy, while others burn with the same set-up. my recommendation is to make your first cut leaving the wood a little heavy, then a final cut removing less wood, blade stays cooler, and burns less.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-16-2010, 02:58 AM
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good tip

That's a good tip Timpa. Also would prevent pinching the blade which would cause burning.

I think I use that technique without thinking about it as I progresssively get closer to my pencil mark with each cut.

Bret
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