making shaker crown molding - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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making shaker crown molding

I know "shaker" and "crown" don't really go together, but that aside thats what everyone calls it and is what i'm looking to make.

What I mean is this:


It looks simple enough, but the problem I'm running into is keeping the piece against the fence consistently after I've cut one side on a 45. I have a decent table saw and a cheap router table with a nice router.

I've thought about trying to use the scrap piece from the first 45 to put against the fence but haven't tried it yet.

Is there a really simple way to do this and get consistent cuts that I'm missing?
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know if it makes a difference but this is to go on the kitchen cabinets i'm building
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post #3 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 08:15 PM
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How many linear feet?
Could you do it with a bevel cutter on your router?
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post #4 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asevereid View Post
How many linear feet?
Could you do it with a bevel cutter on your router?
less than 30' total. I started off trying to do 8' pieces at a time but had a hard time keeping them steady. I did buy two more stands to support the piece but haven't tried again yet.

The main problem seems to be the sharp edge on the fence.

I did try a bevel cutter on the router, but the table I have is pretty cheap and it wasn't consistent.

I also bought some feather boards. Maybe those along with the additional supports will be all I need.

I was just thinking maybe there is some sort of jig I can make to simplify things and get the consistency where it needs to be.

I never dreamed that a simple looking piece of trim would be the most difficult part of building new cabinets
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post #5 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 09:16 PM
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I would take a S4S piece of wood and route the edges on it with a 45 degree chamfer bit and then trim the back side off on the table saw on a 45 degree angle.
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post #6 of 9 Old 10-22-2014, 11:38 PM
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The board lays flat on the table saw, you tilt the blade. The board doesn't get ripped to a fine point, you just chamfer half of each corner, flip the board over and repeat, moving in the fence as necessary. Only two of those cuts will show, the others are against the wall and ceiling. With a good blade, you should be able to hand sand that little bit.
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post #7 of 9 Old 10-23-2014, 07:47 AM
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your 2 1/2 and 2 1/2 imply a 45 degreee angle, so your table saw can make all cuts with the board laying flat. i would make a sacrificial fence with the blade tilted at 45 deg, cutting into the sac fence. only the last cut, and only the last few inches, will then be with a point against the sac fence. fence only has to be set once.

caution, this process does leave a trapped small strip of wood between the fence and the blade, so stand to the side when cutting.
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post #8 of 9 Old 10-23-2014, 09:14 PM
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Why not just leave a small flat on the edges? Id imagine that a flat of say, 1/32 or so would barely if at all be noticeable but still leave enough of a flat to run against the fence. Its what i do for cutting a bevel into a picture frame, works well enough for me

I need cheaper hobby
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-11-2014, 07:27 AM
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I just made some of this last weekend. I found that if I routed the 45 on one side of the board only(the reveal side), then ripped it to a point on the saw, it worked perfectly. No sanding, no fuss. If you only bevel halfway through, then you can keep the "point" off of the table surface when ripping, and riding nicely against the ts fence.

Simon
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