Lipped edge cabinet doors - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-12-2010, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Lipped edge cabinet doors

Working on a project for my son and DIL which is a fireplace surround with base cabinets and bookcases above. The base cabinets will have 2 doors in each cab. I want to make raised panel doors with a lipped edge 3/8" by 3/8". Looking at router bits on the net, I see bits made for this including a rounded over front which is what I want. My question is concerning the rabbet these bits create. The rabbet is beveled about 10 degrees. Is this necessary? Can't I just use a regular rabbet bit that cuts a square rabbet and then round over the front edge. Are typical 3/8" inset hinges bent to this 10 degree bevel? Doesn't look like it to me. I don't want to buy another router bit if I can do it with bits I already have on hand.
Rick
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-12-2010, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RickM1 View Post
My question is concerning the rabbet these bits create. The rabbet is beveled about 10 degrees. Is this necessary? Can't I just use a regular rabbet bit that cuts a square rabbet and then round over the front edge. Are typical 3/8" inset hinges bent to this 10 degree bevel? Doesn't look like it to me. I don't want to buy another router bit if I can do it with bits I already have on hand.
Rick

When I do those, I use a regular 3/8" rabbeting bit, and a round over bit for the profile. The stepped hinges for the rabbet don't seem to be set at any specific angle, and when mounted they lay fitted in the rabbet.






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post #3 of 6 Old 03-12-2010, 11:09 AM
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You can use a standard straight rabbet for this, BUT, you need to make sure that you have enough clearance for the edge to clear the face frame when closing the door. I seldom do this type of door, so I never bought a beveled bit. I use a straight bit. Then I take my block plane and plane a slight bevel to the edge with just a few strokes, nothing much. Then I use a sanding block to sand these and that gives a bit more bevel to it. Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not. We're talking about maybe 2 minutes per door, tops.
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-12-2010, 02:02 PM
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partial overlay (or partial inset) doors do not need any bevel on the rabbit, esp if you allow 1/8" marging all around. i do it on table saw, fence set at 3/8" total cut (incl kerf) and pass door through twice.
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-12-2010, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all who replied. I just couldn't see buying a bit that I might use only one time when as you say, I can use a block plane and add a bevel. Thanks again.
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-16-2010, 06:51 AM
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The bevel on the bit is just to give additional clearance for the partial inset door to the stiles and rails. Plus it sometimes gives a cleaner profile because it is all cut with one bit. However, it is not necessary. As MMWood said, make sure you have enough clearance all the way around and use a plane rabbet or table saw to cut the rabbet. Be sure and allow additional clearance for the hinge wrap in the width of the door.

Rocky
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