Laminate trim for marble table top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-29-2015, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Question Laminate trim for marble table top

I am new to wood working and I am refinishing an antique wooden table. I want to use marble tiles as the table top. Do I need to use grout between tiles if it is just for indoor use or can I just put the tiles tightly against each other and adhere them to the table top with something like "thinset"?
I also wanted advice on trimming the outer edge of the tabletop once I attach marble tiles. Can I get a 3" or 4" flexible laminate or metal trim to wrap around and finish the table top, hiding any possible inconsistencies?
Any advice would be appreciated!
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-30-2015, 06:52 AM
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For edge trim, look in the tile section of a local store--there are many aluminum edge profiles available--Schluter makes some---go to Schluter and see--

Even on a table, wou will want a small grout line--1/16 " will do.

A modified thinset could be used---avoid any solvent based adhesives--they can stain the marble--
I have used clear silicone caulk on small projects with good success---
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-30-2015, 01:43 PM
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You don't have to use the grout, but if not, I wouldn't set the tile (adhere it) either, just lay them in loose. That way, they can be removed to clean the gunk that gets between them out. Spray adhesive onto the plywood underneath could keep them from sliding, but leave them removable. In that case, I'd not use an edging like the Schluter stuff, just a rabbetted wood edging. You should be able make up the inconsistencies in the field and keep the edges flush.

If you do set them, definitely use the modified thinset as mikeswoods said. I'd also recommend pressure treated plywood or a layer of 1/4" cement backer board for the underlayment. For a 1/16" grout line, you'll want unsanded grout and I would consider a polymer additive or epoxy grout just because you may get some flex in the table.
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post #4 of 6 Old 10-06-2015, 10:39 PM
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One more point, if you are using green marble or green granite or purple marble, you have to use epoxy mortar rather than a water mixed thinset. Green and purple stones will warp if set with regular thinset.

If you are using a white marble, use white thinset. Gray thinset will show through enough to change the color of the tile.

I'd recommend that you grout the joints. They are going to get filled up with trash anyway, you might as well fill up the joints with something that looks nice. As posted above, use a non-sanded grout for marble. Sanded grout will scratch it.

You should also seal the stone. Wait a couple of weeks to allow the grout to cure, then seal it. Tile stores typically sell sealers.
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post #5 of 6 Old 10-06-2015, 10:51 PM
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You could modify the project by creating a wood perimeter band equal to the height of the tiles, (or a smidge lower) then if adamant against grouting, grind the offset nubs off the tiles so they can butt tight. Allow them to float and you can remove them for cleaning. If not I might consider setting the tiles and using a silicon grout

Work smart not hard!
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post #6 of 6 Old 10-07-2015, 01:17 PM
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Hello I read your concern and my advise is to first use a sealer on the wood you will use as a base for setting the countertop and an edge so that it has an overhang it will look very elegant. Invest a little more and buy a piece of marble cut to size. Go to a marble shop and there you will find plenty of scrap pieces. Glue with dap silicon transparent. I am a marble technitian and have installed marble countertops in millon dollar homes. Post a picture of the antique and will gladly give you advise.
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