I have two theories about flush trim routing. First, using the trim bit with a bearing, having it extended down far enough to clear the routing line will help keep the bearing and the gap between the bearing and the flutes cleaner. But having that length, makes it easier to rout off too much if the router is tipped.
Having the length short, where the flutes are just below the rout line makes it less likely to rout too much because the length is shorter, but is more likely to pick up dried cement and laminate particles.
There may be a happy medium, and my method is how I feel on that day.
As for cleaning, lacquer thinner will dissolve the glue and makes the glue gummy unless it is thoroughly cleaned. I prefer to use mineral spirits as it makes the glue "break away" from the bit and laminate faster and cleaner than lacquer thinner without dissolving it. VM&P Naptha will also work well if the glue is wetted. It will keep the glue intact with itself and cleanly break away from metal or laminate parts.
A clean bit spot sprayed with WD-40 will be less likely to garner a buildup, and will lubricate the bearing. Before I start I put a couple of drops of air tool oil on the bearing and on top of the bearing which helps a lot.
A stuck or frozen bearing that "locks up" can start spinning with the bit and wind up burning the laminate where it rides. So, it's important to keep an eye on it.
I find using a trim router works best with trimming as it can be controlled with one hand, and is less tiring. It takes much less surface to feel when the router base is flat than a full size router with the larger base.
If using a "bevel" bit to put the bevel on the laminate, keep in mind that a straight bit should be used first. The laminate should be cleaned off so the bevel bit has a clean and unobstructed surface to run on. One problem with bevel bits is that because the depth set for the bit determines how much to rout off, very little of the flute ever gets used. But I use them quite a bit doing kitchen work because of how much routing and filing there is to do. If I use a bevel bit, I leave the edge slightly full, so there is minimal filing to do.
Other than the flush trim bits with a bearing
and bevel trim bits with a bearing
there are pilot bits without bearings
for both flush trim and for bevel trimming.
There is a "no-file"
bit, that some use. I find they work well if they are adjusted perfectly and if the working rout line is kept clean. All in all, I rather use a flush trim and bevel and then file off the edge.