installing stoll on Andersen 400 or A series double hung windows - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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installing stoll on Andersen 400 or A series double hung windows

Hi all,
Looking for advise on how best to install the stools on the 17 new windows I just bought and installed. Andersen does not post any guides on this, just a picture.



The problem is that the main outside sill is at such an angle related to the stool there does not seem to be a great way to either nail and or pocket hole attach. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I will attach a picture of the window side view.

Thanks Much
Max
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post #2 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 11:08 AM
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I wouldn't add anything on the outside, you are just asking for a water intrusion or rot issue on the outside.

They are sloped to shed water.
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post #3 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 11:13 AM
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They usually include a vinyl insert with each window that clips on the bottom of the window to fill in the angle.
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post #4 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hi and thanks,,, the stool (sometimes known as the window sill) goes on the inside of the window. Not sure what your comment refers to.
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post #5 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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pointer to stool

Hi,, here is the stool I am trying to install.
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post #6 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 11:50 AM
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I put stools on all the andersen windows I install.

I am not sure what the issue is?

The last 4 I did in the same room had the stools integrated into the chair rail I installed all round the room.

I think I use glue, opened the window and clamped it.

You confused me about the angled sill. the insides are not angled on either the 400, 200 series I install.
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post #7 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Glue ??

Hi and thanks...

you say
I think I use glue, opened the window and clamped it.

so can you say for sure you just only use glue... what type.. I thought of this but I was worried that it would not be strong enough.

thanks
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post #8 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 12:15 PM
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TBII. Then you can nail the stool into the apron underneath.

I have pictures, I will find them and post them.
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post #9 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hi,, pictures would be great.. thanks
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post #10 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 02:09 PM
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Whenever I install their tilt-wash DH's, I use the pocket screws they send with without problems. With that said, take a measurement of the bottom window stop, and using a scrap piece of wood, adjust your pocket hole either in from, or toward the stop. When you go to screw them in, open the bottom sash and feel as you run each screw in. I've seen people use drywall screws that damaged the bottom sash due to improper length.
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post #11 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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I trimmed out Ike 30 of these in my house. I nailed thru the face two or three times depending on the width of the window. I shot a couple more down thru the stool into the apron including both ends that are then covered by casings. Between the casing and stool and nails in 2 directions they don't budge. Pocket screws seems like way overkill.
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post #12 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstange2 View Post
Whenever I install their tilt-wash DH's, I use the pocket screws they send with without problems. With that said, take a measurement of the bottom window stop, and using a scrap piece of wood, adjust your pocket hole either in from, or toward the stop. When you go to screw them in, open the bottom sash and feel as you run each screw in. I've seen people use drywall screws that damaged the bottom sash due to improper length.

Hi,,, TILT and Wash DH have a different stool design if you look at the engineering layout.
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post #13 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LearnByDoing View Post
I trimmed out Ike 30 of these in my house. I nailed thru the face two or three times depending on the width of the window. I shot a couple more down thru the stool into the apron including both ends that are then covered by casings. Between the casing and stool and nails in 2 directions they don't budge. Pocket screws seems like way overkill.

I don't believe Pocket screws can work.. look at the design photo I posted. there is less than 1/2 inch of wood to screw into on the window itself. They really should of lowered the stool channel on the window to allow for a thicker area to nail / screw into.
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post #14 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 08:23 PM
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It is basically the same as the tilt-wash as far as stop thickness. Slightly different, but not very much. That is why I open the window and keep a finger where the screw is, just in case. Now, if you have the A-series, that is a totally different animal. There is more to screw into. A-series and 400 woodwright are totally different windows. Ive put in hundreds of tilt-wash with no problems. Only a few woodwrights. No problems with them though either. All I can give is my experience.
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post #15 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 08:32 PM
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If you are worried about it, open the bottom sash, glue the tounge on the stool, and run 1 or 2 trim screws from the outside of the stop at an angle. You can cover the head with silicone if you get worried about the heads, but if water gets that far, it's too late.

Last edited by jstange2; 04-05-2012 at 09:27 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #16 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 09:39 PM
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I guess I don't have any close ups but here are a few.

The windows in the limestone looking wall have extension jambs I made and I pocket screwed them to the window jamb.





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post #17 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
I guess I don't have any close ups but here are a few.

The windows in the limestone looking wall have extension jambs I made and I pocket screwed them to the window jamb.
Are those casements? I think his problem was due to the small wood thickness on the double-hungs.

Max... Did you make the stool? Did you add a tongue like they send from the factory?

Last edited by jstange2; 04-05-2012 at 09:51 PM. Reason: added comment.
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post #18 of 26 Old 04-05-2012, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstange2 View Post
Are those casements? I think his problem was due to the small wood thickness on the double-hungs.

Max... Did you make the stool? Did you add a tongue like they send from the factory?
Yes, I have not had any issues doing it the same way with DH's, 200 or 400 series.

I am not sure what the big deal is.

Sometimes I even lap my stool over the bottom jamb so it butts right up to the window sash.
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post #19 of 26 Old 04-06-2012, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstange2 View Post
Are those casements? I think his problem was due to the small wood thickness on the double-hungs.

Max... Did you make the stool? Did you add a tongue like they send from the factory?
I bought the stools from Andersen. They somehow forgot to create a installation guide for 400 series woodwright and A series windows.

Yes the windows stools have the tongue.
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post #20 of 26 Old 04-06-2012, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
Yes, I have not had any issues doing it the same way with DH's, 200 or 400 series.

I am not sure what the big deal is.

Sometimes I even lap my stool over the bottom jamb so it butts right up to the window sash.
Looks like I will glue them, nail from top at an angle into the window and support them below with an apron and nail the ends up into the side trim molding.

Thanks all.
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