How to Flush Trim this table top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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How to Flush Trim this table top

I have a 70's vintage kitchen table that I am replacing the laminate table top with a wood veneer top. I have a question about flush trimming the contour top, (please see the picture). I think I can use a Solid Carbide Flush Trim bit to trim this. Any thoughts, am I correct?

I have not purchased the wood veneer yet until I am somewhat sure I can actually do this.
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 02:33 PM
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If you are applying a wood veneer (not a plastic laminate with a wood veneer), you can just use a mill file.

Using a flush trim bit, or a pilot bit will set the cutting edge out too far to be effective. The bearing/pilot will be riding on part of the protruding profile.






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post #3 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 04:08 PM
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One thing that I've seen before, but never tried is to make/find a jig called a router ski. Yes, a ski. Your router is suspended in the air on either side, can move back and forth on the skis so that the depth remains the same when you move side to side.

I'm no expert on this so I can't recommend it but I found out about it on a router forum and it works very well for the guys that use it.

http://www.routerforums.com/

Is it a total crime to post a link for that forum on this forum?
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your comments. I just looked at the router ski and I guess I didn't mention that my table is round, actually two 1/2 round sections. From the looks of the router ski, it does not look like it would work.

Cabinetman, you mentioned that if I am using a wood veneer to use a mill file. I am going to the lumber yard Monday, but they told me the veneer they have is wood surface but I must use contact cememt, not wood glue. Sounds like the wood has a laminate backer on it. I guess I can route with a pilot to get close then use the mill file?
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 04:41 PM
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I have a couple of ideas that would possibly work, one is depending on how long the tabletop is you could use a fluting are round nose. And a straightedge to guide the router down the length of the top. The other idea would be to find a router bit with a similar profile. I think the first idea is the best but you will have to have a wide enough piece of plywood are MDF sheet so there is no flex halfway down the top, preferably the latter simpily because there will be no voids in the straight edge. Well that's just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions. Keep us posted, and happy woodworking.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gellswor View Post

Cabinetman, you mentioned that if I am using a wood veneer to use a mill file. I am going to the lumber yard Monday, but they told me the veneer they have is wood surface but I must use contact cememt, not wood glue. Sounds like the wood has a laminate backer on it. I guess I can route with a pilot to get close then use the mill file?

You should find out for sure. A paper backed veneer is a wood veneer, but the recommended application is with contact cement.






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post #7 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 07:46 PM
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Just Curious

By any chance is the top in this photo shown upside down?


It seem strange that the larger roundover radius would be at the bottom and the small cove at the top. bill
BTW adding a thin veneer to the very edge of the top in either case is a separation waiting to occur. in my opinion. The veneer should be "captured by the molding to prevent a snag or bump from tearing it up. JMO.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 08:27 PM
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I would use a bearing guided Ogee bit and re-cut the edge

The Pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity while the Optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty...
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-10-2010, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlhaslip View Post
I would use a bearing guided Ogee bit and re-cut the edge
This is what I would do also.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

BigJim

Anything is possible IF you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-11-2010, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Ah, early morning. I'm going to reply to a few posts that came overnight.

1. No, table is not upside down. It originally had laminate veneer, lasted almost 30 years without any hint of seperation, it was just worn out and I am refinishing the whole table and chairs.
2. Pilot guided ogee - this sounds like a winner, I can test it out on one of the leaf's first.

GREAT SITE - thanks for the help and comments!
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