Follow-up from the mitering saga.......
1.So I tried pulling out the outside edge of the trim to see if that would close the gap. It worked beautifully; but the shims I had were not tapered the right way and I suppose i could have eventually cut a shim a hundred times until I got the right shape. And then cut a whole bunch more for around the four pieces. But instead i opted to remove all of the trim and try the back bevel.
2. This gave me the opportunity to fix something else I had not been perfectly satisfied with.....
When i added the build out to the inside edge of the trim, it slid out of skew slightly on one of the pieces of casing when i had clamped it (i found it difficult to clamp well in the first place because the clamps are flat and the profile isn't. But as it was now glued in place, I was able to sand the overlap to be perfectly flush with the edge of the trim. Big smiley face on that one.
3. My chop saw only bevels 45 in one direction. So I had to create the bevel using the trick with the carpenter's pencil and lying it flat on the "table" of the chop saw. (Haven't learned the terminology yet for all parts of my saw.) That was pretty scary.......How to make sure I'm not cutting any of the length of the face while cutting enough off of the butt to create the bevel. The first cut went okay. But then I screwed it up royally (a few F bombs flew) when I hesitated with my blade and ended up tearing out bits of the face side of the cut. Ugh. So then I alternated cutting the bevel or sanding the bevel depending on how good I was feeling in the moment.
4. The results were "okay". Not great. But definitely a tighter fit than before. But it created some additional problems. First of all, because the build-out was added to the inside edge, the 'lip" of my casing is about 3/8 thick. So you can see a big hold in each corner of the window where the bevel meets. This will have to be filled with caulking, I suppose. One corner just did not fit well at all ~ one piece of casing sticks out noticeably from the adjacent piece. i've tried building up the difference with layers of Dex. I mean, it's probably less than a 1/16", but still quite noticeable. But I'm having a devil of a time using Dex on my nail holes, dents, and joints. It just seems to sand away, even out of where I want it to stay, as soon as I touch the soft sanding sponge to it. Argh!!!
5. The good news in all of this is that I'm becoming less stressed out about making mistakes. I actually learned a lot more from having to correct this than I would have if i'd done a good enough job in the first place.
6. Of note, I did try caulking the back corner of the baseboard where washing machine is going to go (in case it look terrible), and i was pleasantly surprised at what a good job it/I did. I made sure the hole was super tiny and had lots of wet rags on hand to wipe up.
I'll post final pictures when the job is complete (I'm working VERY slowly because I procrastinate terribly when I'm afraid of doing a bad job.). But i have one final question:
Are you suppose to caulk where the casing/baseboard meets the wall? Or do you leave it kinda "floating" along it? And what about at the bottom of the baseboard where it meets the floor?
Thank you all so much!