how do i cut formica without chipping the edge? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 32 Old 12-06-2012, 10:21 PM
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Hi!
In addition to many of the above suggestions, we find these "shears" to be very helpful, both for straight or curved work.
The first two on this website have lasted us 30+ years of use, and seem indestructable !
Great for on-site work or repairs...no scoring needed !
http://www.klenktools.com/main/produ...eshearsnew.asp
You cut from the top of the laminate, and if you get any chips, they appear on the underside only !
Little pricey, but hey...!
Best,
Marena and Vinny
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post #22 of 32 Old 04-08-2016, 04:11 PM
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All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.
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post #23 of 32 Old 04-08-2016, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acer View Post
All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.
There's one problem, Charlie hasn't been here since Nov 2012.
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post #24 of 32 Old 04-08-2016, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acer View Post
All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.
Charlie is that you?
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post #25 of 32 Old 04-08-2016, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acer View Post
All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.
Why did you wait 4 years to respond to this thread, check out the date it was posted. I wish some of these fellows could respond to you, they have passed on and we miss them.
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post #26 of 32 Old 04-11-2016, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acer View Post
All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.

it appears that your first post to this forum is to criticize postings from years ago. although ego's do flavor a response from time to time, the information is being shared in good faith to help those asking for help.


when a post is written that I may not agree with, I read it again. usually there is merit to the part I don't agree with - and I just learned something new. give it a try!
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post #27 of 32 Old 04-11-2016, 12:25 PM
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I just cut some laminate on my table saw with a 80-tooth non-carbide blade. I stuck the laminate smooth side down to a piece of scrap plywood and cut it as normal. I had great results. Forgive my method, but I didn't know any better...

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post #28 of 32 Old 04-11-2016, 01:57 PM
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I normally use my 50 Tooth Freud Combination Blade with Carbide Tip. Run it right through the table saw blade. The edge chip up is so small as to not be a problem with a 1/8" over hang to be cleaned up with the hand held router. If one side has to butted against the backsplash, I would cleanthat edge up first with the hand-held and a straight edge. then lay it down and clean up the other sides after it is laid.

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Retired woodworker, amongst other things, Sold full time cruising boat and now full time cruising in RV. Currently in Denison, Tx
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post #29 of 32 Old 06-15-2016, 11:22 AM
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I was cutting soffit, and having trouble, when a friend (carpenter) suggested that I do the same thing, reverse my blade (fine tooth) and go slow. Worked well, on the aluminum. Now I know of another place to use that tip. Thanks

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post #30 of 32 Old 06-15-2016, 11:26 AM
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Sorry

New to the game, didn't mean to intrude. Wasn't using a carbide tipped blade, just a fine tooth cheap blade. Again my apologies.

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post #31 of 32 Old 06-16-2016, 10:21 AM
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New to the game, didn't mean to intrude. Wasn't using a carbide tipped blade, just a fine tooth cheap blade. Again my apologies.
It's find to dig up old threads. Usually the problem though is someone is looking for answers from members long gone.
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post #32 of 32 Old 06-16-2016, 01:02 PM
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Ranger ... as my Mom used to say, "If you didn't draw blood or break a bone, no need to apologize."

Of course, we were also allowed to ride in the car without seat belts (an option on some vehicles) back then.

How did we ever survive???
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