Help needed with saw cutting crooked base molding - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Help needed with saw cutting crooked base molding

This is a problem that has been a thorn in my side with my Dewalt 12 double-bevel sliding compound miter saw for a long time, but it was such a small problem I never looked into it when doing general construction. But now that I am using it do do precision trim work it is a pain in the arse.

For instance, I just got finished putting some base around some cabinetry and ever time I swivel my saw to cut 45's I have to bump the angle a half degree +/- for each side. I have put my machinist square on it and it is dead on plumb when on 90. It just baffles my mind that I have to tweak this thing every time I swing it.

Anyone have any similar problems or suggestions?

Thanks

Tim

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #2 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 02:01 PM
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Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find.
Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one.
Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:}
If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut

Last edited by skymaster; 07-23-2009 at 02:03 PM. Reason: comment
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post #3 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find.
Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one.
Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:}
If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut
Hey Sky....I have no idea..I am at a loss....I have tried different feed rates...different blades...I have blown the thing as clean as the day I bought it in 06'.....

You see the mystery to me is why does the "head" angle change when I turn the table? The 45 degree miter angle is correct..it is the top to bottom 90* cut that gets thrown off when I turn the table.


.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron

Last edited by Bearcreek; 07-23-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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post #4 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find.
Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one.
Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:}
If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut
Also...I called the Dewalt Service Center in Atlanta and he said they could fix it but couldnt tell me how. He said they would only charge 35.00 but since it would cost 40.00 in gas to make the 80 mile trip, so I would like to fix the problem myself if possible.

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #5 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 04:29 PM
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Hey Bear,
Have you checked to see if you have any slop in your saw that needs to be taken out? My hitachi was acting up a little earlier this year after 7 or 8 years of use. I had a little slop in my slide tubes, which have adjusters to take that out. You might want to check all your moving parts and true and tighten everything up, if you haven't already.
Mike Hawkins
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post #6 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Bear,
Have you checked to see if you have any slop in your saw that needs to be taken out? My hitachi was acting up a little earlier this year after 7 or 8 years of use. I had a little slop in my slide tubes, which have adjusters to take that out. You might want to check all your moving parts and true and tighten everything up, if you haven't already.
Mike Hawkins
Thanks Mike but I have checked that out and believe it or not the angular stock that falls in to the slots to lock the head and table are in great shape. I looked at them this morning and they look like they are falling into place correctly and the machine is real tight(no-slop)

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #7 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 06:46 PM
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Bear; Do you own a dial indicator and stand? From your picture it looks to me that the head is twisting as it plunges. If you have an indicator "zero" it out with the head at its highest point then slowly lower it and see if it starts pushing into the indicator. If so then at least you know what the problem is as to how to fix it that is another story. Really look at the mechanism to understand how it works. Also does this do it at both 45's or only one side?For lack of better terms it appears that the head in not traveling vertically but drifting or being pushed off

The fact that DW knows of the problem, tells me it is a part they have on the shelf and just want the money. I would call the customer service dept and just for ****s and giggles ream em out about piss poor service dept, you may just be very surprised and very happy at free help and parts. They are good people, and tell em what u told us, 3 hrs drive, etc etc. :}:}:}:}

Last edited by skymaster; 07-23-2009 at 06:50 PM. Reason: comment
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post #8 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Bear; Do you own a dial indicator and stand? From your picture it looks to me that the head is twisting as it plunges. If you have an indicator "zero" it out with the head at its highest point then slowly lower it and see if it starts pushing into the indicator. If so then at least you know what the problem is as to how to fix it that is another story. Really look at the mechanism to understand how it works. Also does this do it at both 45's or only one side?For lack of better terms it appears that the head in not traveling vertically but drifting or being pushed off

The fact that DW knows of the problem, tells me it is a part they have on the shelf and just want the money. I would call the customer service dept and just for ****s and giggles ream em out about piss poor service dept, you may just be very surprised and very happy at free help and parts. They are good people, and tell em what u told us, 3 hrs drive, etc etc. :}:}:}:}
Sky...it does seem that way about DW doesnt it?

Yes it does it on both 45's and the saw isnt pushing off because when the blade is at 0 it is plumb, then at either 45's it is off 1/2* on it respective side with it not turned on or any pressure applied to the blade. Also as you have the square on the table and turn it you can watch the gap go from 0 to 1/2* as you turn the table.

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #9 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 08:55 PM
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Bear; :} ok whoa, when I said pushin off i was referencing the blade, what I meant in the last post was that in the 45 position when you pull the head down the rails that hold the head may be twisting, Since they have a fix it seems to me that there is slop being created. Of course the issue is what can be doing this? thats Y i suggested the indicator against the blade and watch what happens when you pull the head down. IF you have a square or triangle that is small enuf you can push it against the blade mark the table then lightly hold against the blade and pull down to bottom of its draw and mark again that will tell ya right there if it is "twisting" if the marks do not lineup.
I would still call 1-800 dewalt everything to gain nothing to lose :}:}:}
I wish I had the saw here I wood find it! Then make it an offer it cannot refuse, the Joisey way ROFLMAO.
Hmmmmmm re read all ur posts " problem has been here for a long time"
You may just have a defective saw, which would explain the available fix :}:}:} Oh Jes phonecall time
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post #10 of 31 Old 07-23-2009, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Bear; :} ok whoa, when I said pushin off i was referencing the blade, what I meant in the last post was that in the 45 position when you pull the head down the rails that hold the head may be twisting, Since they have a fix it seems to me that there is slop being created. Of course the issue is what can be doing this? thats Y i suggested the indicator against the blade and watch what happens when you pull the head down. IF you have a square or triangle that is small enuf you can push it against the blade mark the table then lightly hold against the blade and pull down to bottom of its draw and mark again that will tell ya right there if it is "twisting" if the marks do not lineup.
I would still call 1-800 dewalt everything to gain nothing to lose :}:}:}
I wish I had the saw here I wood find it! Then make it an offer it cannot refuse, the Joisey way ROFLMAO.
Hmmmmmm re read all ur posts " problem has been here for a long time"
You may just have a defective saw, which would explain the available fix :}:}:} Oh Jes phonecall time
OH..ok..Gotcha...I think I will call them

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #11 of 31 Old 07-25-2009, 09:17 PM
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I have the same saw and it does the same thing.

This is what is wrong with mine. The sliding tubes are not parallel to the deck. Cuts square as ever until I swing into a bevel. Then it climbs up through the board at a slight incline. Causing an out of square cut.

The way I checked that was to set the depth of cut stop to just touch the top of a nice flat board. Then pull forward keeping a nice constant tension on my downward pull. The blade came up and clear of the board as I pulled it towards me. That was a bummer.

When I contacted a service center they told me they could put new parts on the saw and "try" to correct the problem. But no guarantee.

You seem to be getting a different tune. I may call and talk to someone else.

But I'll bet that is your trouble as well and there is no field adjustment for that.
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post #12 of 31 Old 07-25-2009, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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I have the same saw and it does the same thing.

This is what is wrong with mine. The sliding tubes are not parallel to the deck. Cuts square as ever until I swing into a bevel. Then it climbs up through the board at a slight incline. Causing an out of square cut.

The way I checked that was to set the depth of cut stop to just touch the top of a nice flat board. Then pull forward keeping a nice constant tension on my downward pull. The blade came up and clear of the board as I pulled it towards me. That was a bummer.

When I contacted a service center they told me they could put new parts on the saw and "try" to correct the problem. But no guarantee.

You seem to be getting a different tune. I may call and talk to someone else.

But I'll bet that is your trouble as well and there is no field adjustment for that.
HHmmmmm...thanks for that post...did you you get yours square........HOW?

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #13 of 31 Old 07-25-2009, 11:44 PM
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You are welcome.

No mine is still a little jacked, just like the dummy at the switch.
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post #14 of 31 Old 07-26-2009, 03:27 AM
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Never seen a compound mitre saw being 100% yet, they all have their problems. Good table saw is better.
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post #15 of 31 Old 07-26-2009, 09:53 AM
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Never seen a compound mitre saw being 100% yet, they all have their problems. Good table saw is better.
Never seen anyone trim a house with a table saw, but I'm sure there is at least one guy that has given it a try. A good table saw is the hub of any shop but it's not the answer to every question.

The best saw out there right now is made by Festool.

You better check with your bank before you go look at it. No need to drool all over yourself for no reason.
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post #16 of 31 Old 07-26-2009, 10:33 AM
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My 12" Hitachi has this exact problem. I can't cut a flat picture frame because they open up at the top of the cut. Intersting thought about the rails not being parallel with the base. I'll have to check it out.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #17 of 31 Old 07-26-2009, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Never seen anyone trim a house with a table saw, but I'm sure there is at least one guy that has given it a try. A good table saw is the hub of any shop but it's not the answer to every question.

The best saw out there right now is made by Festool.

You better check with your bank before you go look at it. No need to drool all over yourself for no reason.
Yes...I have been drooling..LOL

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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post #18 of 31 Old 07-26-2009, 11:56 PM
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I have been lurking on this site for a long time so I finally joined! I have a DW 718 that does the same thing about 1/4 degree shy on both 45 miter dents but square on the 0.Driving me nuts. I'm going to try the parallel thing Gus was saying. Hope there is an easier fix. I have tried replacing the dent guide and the slides under the base with no avail. hope this gets resolved.
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post #19 of 31 Old 07-27-2009, 01:03 AM
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My 12" Dewalt does the same thing and always has. I have a gen 1 saw in my truck, 10 years old. I have adjusted it dozens of times and paid Dewalt to fix it 2-3 times. It does not fix the problem. I finally started carrying 2 saws, 12"chop, and 12" slide. The chop saw does not deflect like the slide saw does; the slide saw is great but just has too many moving parts for fine trim.

I really detest the new gen 9 saw, a ridiculous # of parts. I have picked up a couple gen 1-6 saws of CL so I will have a supply of good early saws.

Last edited by scribbles; 07-27-2009 at 01:11 AM.
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post #20 of 31 Old 07-27-2009, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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I have been lurking on this site for a long time so I finally joined! I have a DW 718 that does the same thing about 1/4 degree shy on both 45 miter dents but square on the 0.Driving me nuts. I'm going to try the parallel thing Gus was saying. Hope there is an easier fix. I have tried replacing the dent guide and the slides under the base with no avail. hope this gets resolved.
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My 12" Dewalt does the same thing and always has. I have a gen 1 saw in my truck, 10 years old. I have adjusted it dozens of times and paid Dewalt to fix it 2-3 times. It does not fix the problem. I finally started carrying 2 saws, 12"chop, and 12" slide. The chop saw does not deflect like the slide saw does; the slide saw is great but just has too many moving parts for fine trim.

I really detest the new gen 9 saw, a ridiculous # of parts. I have picked up a couple gen 1-6 saws of CL so I will have a supply of good early saws.
Well I be a son of a gun...looks like this is not an isolated thing..

Thanks for the reply guys

.....It took me seventeen years to get 3,000 hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course. ~ Hank Aaron
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