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post #1 of 13 Old 10-05-2012, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Help on Moulding

I'm trying to start up a moulding operation and need some advice. I harvest my own lumber and air dry it, do I have to kiln dry the wood before i make the moulding are do I make the moulding and tell the buyer to put it in the house to let it acclimate and will it warp while drying in the house.
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post #2 of 13 Old 10-05-2012, 08:28 AM
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The lumber must be dry first for two reasons.

First, it must be dried while stickered or it will banana and you will have very unhappy customers.

Second, green wood wreaks havoc on shaper bits or any cutting edge for that matter.

It can be air dried however, but this takes time.
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post #3 of 13 Old 10-05-2012, 08:32 AM
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As Tom said, air drying takes time. I would kiln dry the lumber first. That also takes care of little critters.





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post #4 of 13 Old 10-05-2012, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks that's what I needed to know
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-05-2012, 09:32 PM
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No prob... and thank YOU for following up.

It seems to be the trend these days on forums across the net to post one and dones... Get the answers they need then never have the curtesy to reply.
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-06-2012, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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help again

I harvest my own lumber and just getting into moulding with a wood master 725. Should I cut the blanks run it through the planer and then dry it, also right now the wood is down to 10 % moisture, do I have to bring it down to 6% are would 10 % be ok to make the moulding.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-06-2012, 06:41 PM
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Depends on each individual tree but in this case I think that less is more. Wouldn't hurt, would it?
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-07-2012, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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These are the woods I have, southern yellow pine, red oak, white oak, hickory, sweetgum, chestnut and holly and a few others I have no idea what they are. I think the pine is most likely the easiest wood to make moulding out of but not sure. The lumber ranges up to 16 to 24 inches wide and from 8 feet to 16 feet long. Should I dry the planks and then cut the blanks and make the moulding. What I’m trying to get at if I cut the blanks let say 4 inches wide and plan down to 9/16th and put in the kiln will there be more of a chance for it to twist, bow are whatever or should I dry the 16 to 24 inches boards then cut the blanks and plan then make the moulding which would be better.
I’m just trying to learn from someone who made mistakes and that can give me a little advice on the best way to get the lumber ready to make moulding. Thanks for all your comments.
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-07-2012, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexanderbuzzsaw View Post
These are the woods I have, southern yellow pine, red oak, white oak, hickory, sweetgum, chestnut and holly and a few others I have no idea what they are. I think the pine is most likely the easiest wood to make moulding out of but not sure. The lumber ranges up to 16 to 24 inches wide and from 8 feet to 16 feet long. Should I dry the planks and then cut the blanks and make the moulding. What I’m trying to get at if I cut the blanks let say 4 inches wide and plan down to 9/16th and put in the kiln will there be more of a chance for it to twist, bow are whatever or should I dry the 16 to 24 inches boards then cut the blanks and plan then make the moulding which would be better.
I’m just trying to learn from someone who made mistakes and that can give me a little advice on the best way to get the lumber ready to make moulding. Thanks for all your comments.
I buy my lumber K/D, and cut from that what I need to make moulding. I think you would have more problems drying high M/C stock for moulding, or profiled stock.






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post #10 of 13 Old 10-07-2012, 11:22 AM
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Lets try this again. You are trying to make more work for yourself. If you rip it and plane it prior to drying -

- You abuse your tools with green lumber (10% ain't too bad but still)

- You STILL have to rip and thickness it AGAIN after drying and its done shrinking.

What's the point of doing things twice? If your 26" slabs cup a bit in the kiln it doesn't much matter because when you straight line them and rip them that will disappear. This will yield less waste as well.

I suggest you start with some alternative simple wood working projects to learn the properties of lumber and how to use your tools before you try to take on a commercial moulding milling production over night... You'll otherwise be doing yourself and your customers a disservice.

Good luck!
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-07-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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got it

OK I got it Thanks a lot
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-25-2012, 08:33 PM
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I agree with "firemedic". You need experience with wood properties before you start playing around and doing things you don't know how to do. As a trim carpenter, I would be screaming at you if I found out you supplied trim for a house I was doing. Unless moldings are dried down to furniture grade 6-8%, they will not hold their size. It is hard enough even then to get a consistent size on pieces of trim. Just try to match miters on pieces of trim that vary by 1/8". If you make your moldings when the lumber is a 11% + or - a few %, then kiln dry it, every piece will be a different size. Another thing to consider is that boards cut from different parts of a log will shrink differently, in thickness and in width...so not only will the moldings be different width, but they will be different thickness as well.

Kiln dry first to 6-8%, then make your moldings.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-26-2012, 09:56 AM
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Kiln dry the material or you are asking for trouble.

Paul Carruth
Ottertail Lumber Company, Minneapolis
Hardwood Lumber, Mouldings and Millwork
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