Help - inside miters not ligning up - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 05-29-2010, 12:16 PM
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Schoolio,
You don't mention the type and size of the BB you're installing or the brand and model of MB.
So, even though as most of the members here have said Coping "IS" corners provides a superior product long term it does take practice to get good at and when you are adept you'll rarely ever do it different.

Couple stupid questions
1. How high is your MB fence?
2. How high is the BB you're trying to install?
3. Assuming the BB is store bought, is the back side relieved, (material removed to assist in flex roll and uneven wall surfaces)?

If the BB is higher than the MB fence and the back of the BB is relieved it may likely be the relief is in contact with the fence in stead of the nailing plane tilting the BB stock back and over the top of the fence. This would explain the reversal of the error when you flip it.

Rarely is a concrete or wood wall close to perfect, add drywall, plaster/joint compound etc and you have a finish mans horror show. Lastly trim stock right from the lumber yd has too high a moisture content and shrink enough within 6 to 12 months to make one cringe. Coping considerably hides the shrinkage from the average eye. If the finish man is worth his/her salt he knows which side of the joint to cope to hide shrinkage from the eye.
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post #22 of 26 Old 06-05-2010, 01:10 AM
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I used this coping system with very good results. Takes a bit of patience to set up the template, etc.

http://www.thecoper.com/
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post #23 of 26 Old 06-06-2010, 01:17 PM
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against the current

All,

I miter most all my inside corners but I have a trick that makes it fast and fits tight.

Make your 45 degree plumb cut with the back of the base molding against the saw fence then, without moving you saw setting, flip the molding over and hold the face against the fence. The molding is now upside downs and backwards. Now cut a 45 degree cut from the backside aligned with the from cut but don't cut all the way through, leave about 1/4" to 1/2" and lift the blade out of the cut. Break off the little waste piece that is now dangling off the end. Now you have a little point at the top of your base mold with a relief cut on the back to help get it tight into the corner. You can now push the molding into the corner an actually puncture the drywall tape with the little point and get it to fit really tight. Do the same with the other side and the result should be a perfect fit and faster than coping. This also will work if you cut wider molding flat on your sliding compound saw. If the base doe not have a flat face then you'll have to use some sort of shim to keep it flat to make your back cut.

Not that coping is a bad thing. My method makes removing the base more difficult.
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post #24 of 26 Old 06-09-2010, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
... i often use cardboard as a backer to fill in when this happens. i don't nail either side until i get it vertical, and coping is a must.

Just my personal opinion, but this is the quickest and most efficient. I also use this technique with great success.
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post #25 of 26 Old 06-11-2010, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoolio View Post
Hey everyone. This is a very silly question I am sure but I am getting very frustrated so I need help.

I am trying to install baseboard trim around my newly finished basement. I have a simple miter saw (no compound) and I can not get the corners to line up. I stand the trim against the fence and set the saw to 45 degrees. When I go to install the pieces the top fits well but there is a gap at the bottom. If I flip the trim over, opposite problem. Please help, what am I doing wrong??
The problem is simple. The corner into which you are installing the base board is not plumb. The drywall mud or surface requires shims at the bottom to clean up the corner. Try folding a small piece of paper, tape or cardboard and setting it on the floor behind each piece of base before you set them. Adjust the thickness of these shims so that the bottom of the base board closes up. This will solve the problem. Try not to set low nails in the corner. That will open the joint up again. Good Luck
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post #26 of 26 Old 06-11-2010, 03:09 PM
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Cope the inside and backcut the outside.
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