[help] how to make wood squares - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 28 Old 02-23-2017, 09:56 AM
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Maybe because he simply bought a piece of wood that size. We already mentioned half lapped strips.
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post #22 of 28 Old 02-23-2017, 12:12 PM
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Another thing to try would be to make some square strips that will easily fit in the holes and cut them to the thickness of the material and plug the holes after drilling them, move them along so they are always adjacent to the holes being made from what ever method you choose. This may help from blowing out the walls between the holes.

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post #23 of 28 Old 02-24-2017, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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but isn't 15mm enough for the walls not to break? initially I had 5mm ones but I can increase it until 15mm.
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post #24 of 28 Old 02-24-2017, 11:13 AM
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15 mm is a decent shot at it - but it's still a risky project. one or two holes, might pull that off.

100 holes? the probability of disaster increases . . .

someone mentioned above - it would be really smart to use some cheap wood and perfect your technique before starting in the finished project piece. and in the process of that, I'd recommend you increase the forces involved to the point that you do break out both a cross grain and a long grain wall. sounds perhaps silly - but if you actually bust it up in a prototype you'll acquire some experience in 'how much is too much' - you don't want to learn how much is too much on the 73rd hole . . .
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post #25 of 28 Old 02-24-2017, 12:02 PM
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I think enough people have responded that the path options for you are pretty clear. I was you, I'd get started.
One path, more money in tools but faster and better, is a router on a guide rail. You would start with the rail horizontal and the router only able to move in X axis. Slide the router to the start of the first square, lock it, and drill a 9mm hole with the plunge router. Basically it's drill press at that point. Move the router ~6mm and repeat. After the holes are roughed out you can go back with the router and clean them up. Here's a picture of that system: http://************/j9glz6u

Low tool costs, much more time, go with Tom's post #13.

There are a lot of tips, jigs, and homemade guides that will help with whatever path you choose. For example a carefully made template with a row of holes, perhaps even with drill guide bushings, for the smaller holes that you clamp to the work and use in place of measuring and laying out each hole.
When you are done you'll know exactly how to do it. Please report back.
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post #26 of 28 Old 02-24-2017, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riskinhos View Post
but isn't 15mm enough for the walls not to break? initially I had 5mm ones but I can increase it until 15mm.
Depends on the wood and the climate. Some woods move a lot as humidity and temperature change, some don't. Part of the problem is that you're going to have a LOT of exposed end grain in some places, and basically none in others. So it won't expand and contract evenly with temperature changes. 15mm of hardwood will certainly hold up for a while, and will likely survive the building process if you're careful, but over time it's likely to crack.

We still don't know what you're doing with this, so we're all being pretty conservative in what we suggest.
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post #27 of 28 Old 02-27-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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thank you all. it's invaluable help and information I got. I'm still waiting from quotes from CNC shops but if it's too expensive I'll do it myself with all the tips I got from here. Sure I've some pieces of wood to try before I even attempt to do the real thing and I'm very well aware of all the risks involved. It's a win win situation. If I do it and everything works great. If I break it and can't do it great too because I'll learn some skills.
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post #28 of 28 Old 02-27-2017, 08:30 AM
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The answer is simple;
BANDSAW.

Cut the block into 6 straight pieces.
Cut eight tooth comb slots in each piece,
stick it back together.

No stress on wood, glue lines almost impossible to see.
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