Gluing up Carcasses - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-23-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Gluing up Carcasses

Getting read to start ripping the ply for my bookcase project first thing in the morning. Don't have my dado set here yet, so I couldn't assemble even if I rushed this one.

When I go to glue up the carcasses, I'm faced with slow downs due to only having 3 bar clamps. Would nails hold hardwood ply tight enough for glue up with through dadoes? I had planed to shoot 16g 1-1/2" approximately 12" apart, but can shoot up to 2-1/2".
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-24-2011, 01:03 AM
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IMO I wouldnt - i think tha clamping pressure better 'seats' the board into the dado - just my thoughts

Can I build that? There's only one way to find out.

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post #3 of 7 Old 11-24-2011, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
Getting read to start ripping the ply for my bookcase project first thing in the morning. Don't have my dado set here yet, so I couldn't assemble even if I rushed this one.
Have you considered doing dadoes with a router?

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When I go to glue up the carcasses, I'm faced with slow downs due to only having 3 bar clamps. Would nails hold hardwood ply tight enough for glue up with through dadoes? I had planed to shoot 16g 1-1/2" approximately 12" apart, but can shoot up to 2-1/2".
When I started out, I had no compressor, so all my mechanical fastening was done with my choices of...finish nails, screws, trim screws, or box nails (if not seen). A well fitted panel in a dado with glue and nailed...and allowed to dry makes for a good joint. If you want the nails totally hidden, you could go to the trouble of "blind nailing".

For finished ends that have been fastened with a 16ga, or an 18ga, doing all your finishing, and then just using a fill crayon renders the hole pretty much invisible.

If you only clamp up opposing dadoes three clamps should seat the fit, even for 24" cabinet panels. For 3/4" stock, a 1/4" deep, by 3/4" wide dado is all that's necessary. You also might consider making up some pipe clamps in 1/2" and 3/4". For well fitted dadoes, a 1/2" pipe clamp up to 5' is more than adequate to clamp. If you are bending the pipe, make a better joint. Good fitting joints don't need that much clamping force. Pipe clamps are fairly cheap.








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post #4 of 7 Old 11-24-2011, 07:33 AM
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For the work you are describing I will normally clamp, shot in a few brads, remove the clamp and go on the the next joint.

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post #5 of 7 Old 11-24-2011, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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I have three 5' pipe clamps, maybe 6'. If the turkey wasnt coming out this moment!

I don't have a compressor either. But I do have a Paslode (IM25-II I think).

This is a face frame construction, running full wall. This, and nails into the dadoes will be between carcasses, trimmed out in solid stock, and will never see the light of day again.
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-30-2011, 01:23 PM
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This is a face frame construction, running full wall. This, and nails into the dadoes will be between carcasses, trimmed out in solid stock, and will never see the light of day again.
Then just screw it together and forget the clamps and glue altogether.

Experience is something you get only just right after you needed it.
http://www.miterclamp.com
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-07-2012, 10:41 AM
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Then just screw it together and forget the clamps and glue altogether.
You are my hero, here is a method I use

http://www.youtube.com/user/joefusco...25/-7jSVtoMbOk
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