To glue or not to glue? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 31 Old 03-22-2012, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bob sacamano View Post
i ALWAYS glue mine. put glue in the dead center of the panel and it will expand each way from the center out. it will help rattling.
-This is a very interesting (brilliant!) idea to me and it makes a lot of sense. I'm like one percent shy of completely sold on it and that 1% stems from your location. I'm in Ohio.
Can you, or anyone else who is familiar with this method "sell" me on it 100%?

It seems like something (a method) I would run with.
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post #22 of 31 Old 03-23-2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bob sacamano View Post
i ALWAYS glue mine. put glue in the dead center of the panel and it will expand each way from the center out.
This is the same theory I use when putting vinyl siding on a house. They say to not nail it tight so it can move, and it does move...A LOT ! But my theory is that if you don't nail ANY of the nails tight, you have no control over which direction the siding will shrink/grow. So, let's say the piece on the left decides to shrink all toward the left, and the piece to the right decides to shrink all to the right. You could end up with a gap between the pieces, even though there is a 1" overlap. So, what I do is nail each piece tight in the middle and all other nails are left loose. This way, all the pieces of siding always shrink/grow from their center point.

Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"
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post #23 of 31 Old 03-23-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autre View Post
-This is a very interesting (brilliant!) idea to me and it makes a lot of sense. I'm like one percent shy of completely sold on it and that 1% stems from your location. I'm in Ohio.
Can you, or anyone else who is familiar with this method "sell" me on it 100%?

It seems like something (a method) I would run with.
maybe this will help - are there any johnny cash fans here ?

it will work in Kansas City, Sioux City, Cedar City, Dodge City Reno, Chicago, Fargo, Minnesota,
Buffalo, Toronto, Winslow, Sarasota,
Wichita, Tulsa, Ottawa, Oklahoma,
Tampa, Panama, Mattawa, La Paloma,
Bangor, Baltimore, Salvador, Amarillo,
Tocapillo, Baranquilla, and Perdilla

it works everywhere.

even in ohio

build it right or not at all
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post #24 of 31 Old 03-24-2012, 12:04 AM
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Sacamano- I'm still laughing as I write this.

Picture clearly delivered. 100 percent "got".


TS3660- I actually learned this same method (siding) from a guy I worked with last summer. He did it the same way. Same logic. Smart guy.

Maybe that's why it stuck so profoundly in the back of my head. I just needed someone like Sacamano to re-ignite the spark (for lack of a better way of putting it).

Thanks Much Guys.
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post #25 of 31 Old 04-03-2012, 05:48 PM
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Should I glue the center panels in or let them float on my kitchen cabinet doors. I'm making shaker style doors with red oak frames and using 1/2 inch plywood for the center panels which will have the back side rabbited to fit the grooves of the stiles and rails. Everything will be stained in water base stain if it matters. Thanks

No glue is best, if they rattle when they hit the face frame you can pin them through the back with a 23 gauge 3/8 inch pin. you can't see the hole and it will allow for a little movement without rattling.
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post #26 of 31 Old 04-06-2012, 07:00 PM
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I usually put a bit of glue in the center of each rail. It holds panels in place but allows movement.
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post #27 of 31 Old 01-27-2013, 04:29 PM
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To glue or not top glue?

IMO...if you can account for expansion and contraction and there is little to none with the center panel, I would glue it all round along with the stiles and rails. Fixing the panel from moving provides triangulation necessary to make a stronger, more rigid door.
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post #28 of 31 Old 01-28-2013, 08:31 AM
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Make your own spacers out of caulk. Lay a line of caulk on wax paper and let them dry overnight. The next day cut them up and put them in the groves.
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post #29 of 31 Old 01-29-2013, 05:27 PM
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All i can say is Freud rail and stile bits. They will answer the float or not to float question. Ha ha. Its up to you really Either way they are super strong doors when finished. I just got though building my first four sets of rail and stile doors. Super cool of Freud to walk me through it. Bits with a DVD and paper instructions are about 150 on Amazon and totally worth it.
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post #30 of 31 Old 02-20-2013, 11:33 PM
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Float them. After finishing, add clear silicone to the corners on the inside. Rattling solved
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post #31 of 31 Old 02-21-2013, 10:28 AM
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Amazing. This thread is over a year old yet people are still going back and forth about whether or not to glue plywood.
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