Fake panelled walls - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 04-24-2020, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post

no one dies if the plumber switches the hot/cold pipes or the toilet doesn't flush
The plumber could depending on how the customer feels about it. Sorry I couldn’t resist.
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post #22 of 27 Old 04-24-2020, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
making it work is one thing. nec code compliant is another
with non-flammable wall finish you can have the box back 1/4" into the wall
with flammable wall finish you must have the box flush to the surface

any spark or flame in the box could easily move to the flammable wall finish
it's an easy fix using a plastic box extender



no one dies if the plumber switches the hot/cold pipes or the toilet doesn't flush

That seems reversed to me. I would think with the flammable wall finish you would want the box back to keep it further from the flammable material.


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post #23 of 27 Old 04-24-2020, 07:52 PM
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That would be fine if the outlet stayed back in the box and was recessed, but then the cover plate won't fit and it'll look weird. If you use longer screws and extend just the outlet to the edge of the new wood then outlet is out of the box and the terminals where an arc is likely to happen are now only 3/8 of an inch from a flammable material instead of inside an insulated box.


Take a look at the picture, when that happens you want the outlet safely inside the box so nothing else catches fire. The box and the cover plate are made of plastics that won't catch fire, they may melt a little but they won't flame.
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post #24 of 27 Old 04-25-2020, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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It is a very simple design and also simple to construct. Just a lot of pieces to cut when you are doing a whole room.
GeorgeC, what created the profile on the 'picture frame'. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the interior frame of your panels does not look like a straight edge ~ it appears to be sculpted. Did you use a router or did you add profile to the interior edges?

If you used a router, did you router them once they were put together?

Thanks,
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post #25 of 27 Old 04-26-2020, 05:44 AM
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There is 1/4 round on the inside. The only molded piece is the chair rail. That was done with a Craftsman molding head cutter. All other pieces that are not a straight cut are 1/4 round. That is what runs the piece count up so much.



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post #26 of 27 Old 06-17-2020, 11:22 PM
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I found some 32”H x 48” wide MDF paneling in the back of Home Depot that has a semi raised panel design with 3 blocks in each panel. I had this installed in all the common areas, hallways and living room. You add a chair rail at the top and baseboard at the bottom.

To make things hard on myself I wanted the design to be seamless under the windows and at the end of the walls, so the panels were cut vertically and horizontally where necessary to make complimentary blocks fit exactly under each window. The cut line was disguised by lining it up close to the block edges.

Here are a couple pictures of the hall and window sides. They are only primed at this point and the baseboards aren’t in yet.

I had some general carpenter guys do the work after I did some samples so they understood what I needed.
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post #27 of 27 Old 06-26-2020, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frost View Post
[QU
Our walls are plaster, not gyprock. The difference does not matter.
That looks really great. But I've always wondered how that application works with sheetrock walls. Plaster has lath behind it so you can nail/pin it most anywhere. With sheetrock, you can pin the horizontal trim to a few studs, but its hit or miss for the vertical pieces. Do you just add some adhesive and caulk?[/QUOTE]

We've done a lot of fake raised panels in offices with metal studs and DW. We use very few mechanical fasteners. Commercial grade hot melt glue and sometimes double sided PSA tape, the good stuff like 3M or Fastcap Speed Tape. "Beauty moldings" are glued directly to the primed drywall that's very smooth. (skimmed to level 5 finish)
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