Face frame inset door hinges - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-22-2018, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Face frame inset door hinges

I'm building face frame cabinets with inset doors. Blum says that their hinges require 9/16inch (14mm) on the back side of the frame to mount the hinge. I didn't realize that and now have 1/2 inch (12.5mm). First, will that still work? If not, is there a way to attach the hinge to the carcass (like a frameless hinge) with a spacer to bring the hinge out to be flush with the frame?
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-22-2018, 10:39 PM
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You could put a 1/2" thick filler next to the stile wide enough to use a frameless type hinge. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Richelie...180U/205417374
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Steve. After reading the Blum brochure enough times to make my eyes hurt, I think that they make adapters in various thicknesses for this very purpose. I didn't read that far until today. See page 62. https://www.blum.com/file/concealedh...us&language=en
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 08:10 AM
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I was afraid to open the pdf file in the link as it looked like it could have a virus. I am not clear about the extra 1/16th inch you need. Do you need the face frame to be 1/16th inch thicker or 1/16th inch wider?

I have built many cabinets with inset doors and used a hinge like Steve shows in the link from Home Depot, not the prettiest set up but still works.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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I understand about not opening the link. You can get to it thru the Blum website too. The brochure specifies 9/16 on the backside of the face frame to mount the inset door adapter shown in the beginning of the pdf. Then on page 62, they show various other adapters that screw into the carcass that accommodate frameless hinges in a face frame cabinet. Kind of confusing.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 11:05 PM
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If you look close that "H" is actually the backside of the cup drilled in the door, not the clearance of the back of the face frame. That is an expensive hinge and it has Zero adjustments, according to the specs there on page 62. You will have to have everything dead perfect, if it doesn't have an adjustment like it says it don't. IMHO it would be way better to go with the hinge Steve shows, it does have an adjustment and all you have to do is add a block behind the face frame. May not look as good but will work just as good.

You are going to have to have a stop on the opposite side of the face frame where the door closes (pull side), it has to have something for the door to stop against on that side with inset doors.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

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post #7 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 12:48 AM
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You are correct, pick plate height and which clip top hinge you would like. Looks like you need the 13mm height plate and you just have to decide which option hinge you want. Your more popular options would be 110 inset soft close, 110 self close, or 110 free swing. They also offer 100, 120 and 170 options and I believe they now have them in colors other than nickel. Also, to the best of my knowledge all of their clip top hinges have three way adjustment.

I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. Cheap prices make for cheap goods; cheap goods make for cheap men; and cheap men make for a cheap country. ~ William McKinley
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 10:28 AM
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Standard hinge with a face frame mounting plate, or blocked out flush with the face frame. That's what I do.
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