Do I need to order mounting strips for cabinet crown? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need to order mounting strips for cabinet crown?

Kitchen designer says it is optional. It costs an additional $320 for the mounting strip.
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 09:37 AM
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Optional is right. If you need them you can make them.





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post #3 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 11:22 AM
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Make them !!!
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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What is the purpose of them? Does it just raise the crown a little higher, or is the main purpose for support?
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 02:40 PM
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Here is a link to Lowes description of using the mounting strips. Yes, make your own...they just provide backing for nailing into....

http://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/...ulding/project
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 03:02 PM
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Depending on the cabinets, crown could attach to the face or to the tops. The strips are just a backing to support the crown when nailing in place. Some strips are beveled on the front edge, with the spring angle, to give more support. On stained finishes, and if the crown has to set forward, the underside of the strip may be finished like the cabinets.





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post #7 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 08:14 PM
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Can you show a picture of the crown molding you plan to use.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Can you show a picture of the crown molding you plan to use.
I'll take some pictures of the sample tomorrow and post them.
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Should I purchase the patch kit from the cabinet manufacturer, or can I save some money by purchasing it somewhere else? Do you have any recommendations? I will need to fill the nail holes.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 06:55 AM
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If all you need is to fill nail holes, minwax sells this soft putty you could use. It's the easiest thing to use. All you do us rub it into the nail hole with your finger and wipe the excess off with a clean rag. You could get your kids to do that job.
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post #11 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 07:35 AM
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Should I purchase the patch kit from the cabinet manufacturer, or can I save some money by purchasing it somewhere else? Do you have any recommendations? I will need to fill the nail holes.
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If all you need is to fill nail holes, minwax sells this soft putty you could use. It's the easiest thing to use. All you do us rub it into the nail hole with your finger and wipe the excess off with a clean rag. You could get your kids to do that job.
If the cabinets are to be painted, use a spackle, sandable wood putty, Bondo, Glazing and Spot Putty, Durhams Rock Hard, but not any soft putty fillers or caulks.

If the cabinets are to be finished either in a natural (clear), or a stained and topcoated finish, then use the soft putty, and there are many types. Some come in sticks or crayon types (like Minwax Blend Fil). After the finish is complete, you can pick a color, or mix more than one together to match, and just rub in to the hole, and wipe off with a clean cloth. These are said to not harden, but they will over time. No need to topcoat over them. They are great for on site fixes.




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post #12 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 09:37 AM
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Nolo,
If you are doing the install, before you set the upper cabinets, test fit a piece of crown on top and see what height that adds to the cabinet, then adjust your install height accordingly.
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

The cabinets are painted maple (semi custom), so they will already be finished.
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post #14 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pictures of the mounting strip:









What type of joint is that? Would I be able to make it with my router (commonly found bit)?
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 08:39 PM
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Thanks

The cabinets are painted maple (semi custom), so they will already be finished.
If the cabinets are actually painted I would put a piece of masking tape where you are going to shoot a nail. That way you can putty the hole without getting any putty on the surrounding paint and it minimizes sanding on the paint. You will though need to get some of the touch up paint from the manufacturer to have the color and sheen match.
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post #16 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 08:44 PM
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Apparently the crown molding is made for a tongue and groove joint. Without seeing the crown molding itself it would be difficult to say if you could omit that part. Anyway if you have a table saw it wouldn't be difficult to make.
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post #17 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 09:30 PM
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Are you getting full or partial overlay doors? If full overlay, then you'll need a backer to nail the crown to, and you'll want it to be finsihed the same as the cabinets so that you can raise the crown slightly to avoid rubbing the door tops if the ceiling is wonky. You can also use it to bring the crown away from the cabinets and overlap the top of the door to give it a more dimensional look. Looks like in the pic that the backer will leave some exposed edge with the crown mouted on the tongue so you will definitely want it to match the cabs. Some crown actually comes with this "backer" pre assembled to it. I find it makes assembly of the joint easier. Cut and assemble the crown on the workbench, set on top of the cabinets and screw up through the tops of the box to attach.

Get the touch up kit. It usually comes with a color matched wax filler, marker, liquid stain and clear coat. Well worth the extra money. One good tip on the wax: rub vigorously to fill the nail hole then use one of the butane torches (the kind that use the cigarette lighter) and sweep the flame quickly over the spot. Then easily wipe away the excess wax.

Use the marker on all of your crown and moulding cuts. Stain the leading edge of the cut before gluing and assembling to hide any bare wood that might peek through.
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