Cutting Door Casing 45 degrees - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 10:32 PM
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Even toasters are 240v in EU.
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post #22 of 37 Old 03-20-2013, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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I'm pulling.
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post #23 of 37 Old 03-20-2013, 07:52 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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did you try a new blade?

It's really your best choice at this point. If the saw has sloppy bearings it's not gonna be any good for much, but you will still be able to use your new blade on the next one, assuming the 1" bore is the same. All the answers in the world here are just speculation until the blade issue is ruled out, especially when it worked fine before ...unless you or someone dropped it.

And as Hammer1 said don't use an 80 tooth and expect a long life. I have an 80 on my Dewalt 12" and it's still working OK, but doesn't see a lot of daily use.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 03-20-2013 at 07:55 AM.
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post #24 of 37 Old 03-20-2013, 08:24 AM
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It could be just a dull blade, or a loose arbor nut. For most mouldings...crown trim, base, I use a 60T. For fine or delicate moulding an 80T.





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post #25 of 37 Old 03-20-2013, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glg54 View Post
I'm pulling.
If it's a slider saw (not radial arm) then to get the best cuts you should be pushing. As long as you have a negative rake blade (-5º) your cut should be pretty clean top and bottom.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #26 of 37 Old 03-21-2013, 07:50 PM
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If you ever buy a blade you need to buy a triple chip. Best blade to use for cutting any kind of wood with minimal chip out. Guaranteed. All around best blade.
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post #27 of 37 Old 03-22-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
If it's a slider saw (not radial arm) then to get the best cuts you should be pushing. As long as you have a negative rake blade (-5º) your cut should be pretty clean top and bottom.
That's certainly the procedure described in the manual of our dewalt 718 scms. i questioned it a few years back, beacuse in my thoughts, starting the cut with the saw pulled out will enter the wood with an upstroke, potentially lifting the wood. then i saw that the manual also describes that the wood should be clamped to the table for this cut.

Last edited by TimPa; 03-22-2013 at 11:59 AM.
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post #28 of 37 Old 03-22-2013, 11:49 AM
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If your blade is sharp and you hold the pc down you should almost never have problems. The only time you might is if the kerf closes down on the sawblade because the board is stressed. That's something that is hard to predict until it happens. I've really never had a pc get lifted. The saw motors really aren't that strong, they depend on a sharp blade.

If you start talking about professional cut saws like the Omga then you are talking about a saw with a real motor and not these universal motors that can be bogged down pretty easy.

Just be careful and go slow, let the sawblade cut the wood. If you don't go faster than that you should never have issues.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #29 of 37 Old 03-22-2013, 05:13 PM
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Pulling to cut with a scms is just asking for anything but the right thing to happen.
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post #30 of 37 Old 03-23-2013, 10:02 AM
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There is no reason to use the slider if the trim is only 3 1/4. Just use it as a chop saw. Try putting a wooden fence on your saw to reduce the gap on the stock fence. It will reduce or eliminate chip out. Another way to get better cuts is to precut. Cut a hair past the line to remove the bulk of material, then cut again on the line. Again, find and use a triple chip saw blade. You will never go back to the others.
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post #31 of 37 Old 03-23-2013, 10:05 AM
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And like Warner said, never pull, always push. Terrible things can happen, especially working on hardwoods.
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post #32 of 37 Old 03-23-2013, 10:32 AM
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Warner said this

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #33 of 37 Old 03-23-2013, 05:01 PM
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I've used a slider for years and always bring my blade down to the wood, cut about halfway through with a pull and then push back through to finish the cut. You get clean cuts both top and bottom and as long as you keep a sharp blade on it never have any deflection or kickbacks.
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post #34 of 37 Old 03-24-2013, 01:17 AM
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Warner said this
you said it to leo. sorry
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post #35 of 37 Old 03-29-2013, 04:43 PM
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I'd say your blade is flexing. Make a nice slow even cut. You shouldn't have a problem.
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post #36 of 37 Old 04-09-2013, 10:59 AM
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Blade, replace it. I have had brand new blades that run off so bad to one direction they will have to go in the garbage. As much as I love a thin blade there are times when some thing is off a bit and they don't cut just right and flex. Was but a year ago I had the same thing as you going on.
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post #37 of 37 Old 04-09-2013, 08:36 PM
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Have you ever had a kickback with it?? That could cause the guide rails to be bent slightly which would throw things off.
..Jon..
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