Cutting Door Casing 45 degrees - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Cutting Door Casing 45 degrees

I am replacing original 2-1/4" colonial casing with a larger 3-1/2" x 1-1/16" (Adams Casing) around my doors. I have done this many times with no problems. I have a 12" Hitachi miter saw.

When I am now cutting the 45 degree angles on the casing the saw is not cutting a straight line. It actually has a curve to it with the middlle of the casing the high point (convex shape).

Help! Why is it doing this? The blade isn't that old. Is this a blade issue? It is an 80 tooth carbide tip blade.

Thanks for any guidance.

Gary
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post #2 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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Sounds like the saw is not tracking straight or the blade is loose or the saw is not locked in the 45 degree setting.
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post #3 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 01:25 PM
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Picture?

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #4 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 04:15 PM
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run the saw - look for blade wobble. make sure the stock isn't moving when you make your cut. the blade could be flexing, so take a sloooow cut. just some things to try.
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post #5 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 08:47 PM
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Blade may be too old or abused.. and you forgot about the time you cut that treated lumber or let somebody borrow it
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post #6 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
run the saw - look for blade wobble. make sure the stock isn't moving when you make your cut. the blade could be flexing, so take a sloooow cut. just some things to try.
Blade wobble should average out and make a straight cut, just wide.

Flexing should also still be straight.

Stock moving should make all of the error in the same direction. Unless it moves one way and then moves back to the original position.

I cannot think of any rational explanation of what you have.

George
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post #7 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 09:37 PM
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Try cutting a 1°-2° back cut on the bevel and let us know what happens.

Learning more about tools everyday
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post #8 of 37 Old 03-14-2013, 09:50 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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It's either the blade or the saw...

Let's try some different wood, maybe plywood or pine. Use a piece about 8" wide and that will magnify the issue. See what happens and pull the saw to the left as you cut across to eliminate any play in the slide or the hinge. Is it a slider?

Generally speaking, a deviation in the cut is a sign of a dull blade trying to avoid one side of the cut.

Next clean the blade thoroughly with a tar and pitch remover. Some folks use Easy Off, others use Purple Simple Green .... now there's an oxymoron. Reinstall and cut again and see if that made a difference.

A new blade will be a more expensive fix and if the issue is a worn rail, bearing or hinge then that's money down the drain. If there is play in the slider or hinge that's a whole 'nother thread.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 37 Old 03-15-2013, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these out on Sunday and let you know the results.

Gary
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post #10 of 37 Old 03-15-2013, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Could you provide more guidance on what you mean. Thanks
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post #11 of 37 Old 03-15-2013, 10:07 AM
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Blade is dull, 80 tooth blades don't last long when chopping.
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post #12 of 37 Old 03-15-2013, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by georgec View Post
blade wobble should average out and make a straight cut, just wide. thats assuming the wobble is symmetric, i've seen it not.

flexing should also still be straight. really?

stock moving should make all of the error in the same direction. Unless it moves one way and then moves back to the original position.

I cannot think of any rational explanation of what you have. you must be right!!!

george
ok then! i am listing some items that i have seen in the past that cause poor cuts on a miter saw!

Last edited by TimPa; 03-15-2013 at 03:36 PM.
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post #13 of 37 Old 03-16-2013, 08:47 AM
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What is the material..... and do you have any pictures?



B,
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post #14 of 37 Old 03-17-2013, 09:52 AM
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Sounds like the board may have a slight cup to it.
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post #15 of 37 Old 03-18-2013, 08:50 PM
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Is the trim cupped or twisted ??
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post #16 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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The trim is not cupped or twisted. It is primed pine.

I did not get a chance to try suggestions above this past weekend since I had to go out of town.

I will try to take pictures and provide sometime this week.

Thanks again.
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post #17 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glg54 View Post
I am replacing original 2-1/4" colonial casing with a larger 3-1/2" x 1-1/16" (Adams Casing) around my doors. I have done this many times with no problems. I have a 12" Hitachi miter saw.

When I am now cutting the 45 degree angles on the casing the saw is not cutting a straight line. It actually has a curve to it with the middlle of the casing the high point (convex shape).

Help! Why is it doing this? The blade isn't that old. Is this a blade issue? It is an 80 tooth carbide tip blade.

Thanks for any guidance.

Gary
I get the same thing with my Dewalt miter saw if I cut compound angle staves for lathe work. If I slow the cut to real slow, it improves. The blade deflects slightly as the teeth come in contact with a wider area of the wood. The start and finish of the cut, you only have a small blade area in contact with the piece, the middle a much greater cross sectional area.

Pure mathematics is, in it's way, the poetry of logical ideas. - Albert Einstein.
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post #18 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 04:05 PM
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Are you pulling or pushing? I had this problem with almost all my slider saws, it's annoying. Not much you can do about it besides try a brand new blade.

Finally found a saw that doesn't do this, Bosch Glide.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #19 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 08:13 PM
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Yes,......"The Glide"........
I really like the Bosch GCM12SD,...:


However,...

What I don't understand is the UK has a version of the GCM12SD with a built in laser and the US version is without, . It Also has the 220vlt option.......

Know what I mean..........

We have 220 , ,we like lasers........what's up with that!...


B,
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post #20 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 08:33 PM
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I agree with the lack of laser.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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