Crown mould....stops? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Crown mould....stops?

See if this works....the pic that is."Cause I know it worked for Gramps".This was his mitre bx of choice,some 100 or so years ago.Did he use the stops?......maybe,but its one of those things that...."what works for one,may not for another".Its an old Stanley,me and dad were always Millers Falls kinda guys.Enjoy,BW


dang it....wait a minute....OK,got it.....this is a pc of "bed mould",held in check with stops.They're cool,cause there's a space or slot on the fence that allows them to slip into....in effect making them disappear.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 04:05 PM
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Cool box!

My 12" Delta DCMS has crown stops.

I've never used them, I like the feeling of knowing I have it seated correctly with my hand.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Scott,didn't use them for years.....uhhh make that decades.Then,....and forget the exact reason..........prolly some chickenchit milling on our part....had to throw sumthin up on the bx in a cut to the chase sort of way,....that it occured to me.If you use a stop,it allows you to press down,against it...in a way thats not available,without...and subsequently holds the stock more secure.As our eyes age....we naturally look for ways that is,somehow easier?

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post #4 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 05:54 PM
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Man, that is a nice saw. Mine had a wooden table on it and was a Stanley. The old hand miter saw was all there was back then and accurate as the dickens, I wish I still had my old one, I miss it. Man I never thought I would say that.

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post #5 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thankyou Jiju....you're right,thats all we had back then.Did or do you remember setting the little "vert" stops on the post's....they hold the saw up at just the PERFECT height....those little round screw thingy's.Just an,....ever so lite touch on saw would be enough to dis-connect and let blade down to the cut?Thats how I grew up....doin sub contracting trim work,well before elec mitre bxs....and pnuematics.

Didn't think anything of it at the time...but it all comes into focus(ha)now....those old geezer's usta make it seem like it was sumthin special for me to do ALL the cutting.They were all a bunch of blind,blankety-blanks that couldn't see sh*t....but hey,what goes around,comes around.And would not trade the experience for a million $$.Best,BW

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post #6 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 06:57 PM
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I've never seen crown moulding cut with a mill. I'm all confused ?????
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-06-2011, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWSmith View Post
Thankyou Jiju....you're right,thats all we had back then.Did or do you remember setting the little "vert" stops on the post's....they hold the saw up at just the PERFECT height....those little round screw thingy's.Just an,....ever so lite touch on saw would be enough to dis-connect and let blade down to the cut?Thats how I grew up....doin sub contracting trim work,well before elec mitre bxs....and pnuematics.

Didn't think anything of it at the time...but it all comes into focus(ha)now....those old geezer's usta make it seem like it was sumthin special for me to do ALL the cutting.They were all a bunch of blind,blankety-blanks that couldn't see sh*t....but hey,what goes around,comes around.And would not trade the experience for a million $$.Best,BW
BW, I do remember setting the stops for the saw release. For some reason I was the cut man back then also. I wanted to make sure it was right the first time, that wasn't fun making repeat cuts. The first electric miter saw I ever saw was one we bought, it was an old Rockwell and made out of cast iron with a 10 inch blade and talk about heavy.

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post #8 of 15 Old 09-07-2011, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Jim,yeeeup...had that same Rockwell bx.It was a muscle builder,haha.Decent enough saw though....think we might have replaced the belt once,maybe a cpl new tables...but never wore it out.

Brink,was hinting at the notion of,or the possibility maybe of milling some slots in a new,fancy...elect bx.Those "stops" on that old Stanley,from a design/utility standpoint are rather elegant.I'll shoot a pic of the M/F bx that I use,still.It dosen't have that style stop...but does have end stops.One of its primary uses here,now is for cutting dado's in stock thats too thin to manage on one of the bigger pcs of equip.And if push came to shove....could make a case for doin tennon shoulders.....it just is an easier,quieter,less tearout and almost faster way vs big equip.We probably use it a cpl times a month.BW
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-07-2011, 01:24 PM
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Jim,yeeeup...had that same Rockwell bx.It was a muscle builder,haha.Decent enough saw though....think we might have replaced the belt once,maybe a cpl new tables...but never wore it out.

Brink,was hinting at the notion of,or the possibility maybe of milling some slots in a new,fancy...elect bx.Those "stops" on that old Stanley,from a design/utility standpoint are rather elegant.I'll shoot a pic of the M/F bx that I use,still.It dosen't have that style stop...but does have end stops.One of its primary uses here,now is for cutting dado's in stock thats too thin to manage on one of the bigger pcs of equip.And if push came to shove....could make a case for doin tennon shoulders.....it just is an easier,quieter,less tearout and almost faster way vs big equip.We probably use it a cpl times a month.BW
BW, do you still use your saws from time to time? You are one lucky man to have those old beauties.

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-07-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Theres a cpl more around here somewhere?Use for thin'ish and small stuff.

They come in very handy doing Chinese Chippendale "fretwork".Heck,we use them on jobs right frequently too.If you're working in somebody's house and can't be slingin sawdust everywhere they're perfect for that.We make BIG "dedicated",box style units when cutting really big moulds(they're simple,shot up bxs that snuggly fit,fr-back...trapping mould).Have gone so far as to benchmake whole cornice sections then put them in a custom bx and cut them with handsaws.This can be a real timesaver when working 30-40 feet in the air on scaffolding.......handing pcs of trim,and worse playing "slow pitch" softball and throwing pcs up and down is rather.....uuuhh,un-proffesional,haha.BW

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post #11 of 15 Old 09-22-2011, 12:39 AM
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I recently used this saw when replacing the baseboard moldings in my house. It worked like a champ.
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-22-2011, 01:13 AM
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I recently used this saw when replacing the baseboard moldings in my house. It worked like a champ.
That is one of the fun things in wood working using your own power other than electric. That is a cool saw.

BW, I have had to make a temporary miter box out of 1X12 and use a handsaw also, I always hated that styrofoam trim especially the really big stuff.

My main hand could do a whole wall with all kinds of offsets and insets with ceiling mold on the floor, nail and glue it together and put it all up at one time and it would fit perfect. I have done that several times my self and like to do it that way.

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post #13 of 15 Old 09-22-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Saw-eeeet,Paul!

I was usin one of ours the other day.Pay attention to exactly how backsaw is sharpened.A very slight taper WRT overall width of blade isn't a problem.IOW's.....looking from end of bx....when saw is pulled back twds opperator....there can be a slight bit of clearence under teeth to table.As saw is stroked fwd it gets down in the track.....makes for a real nice setup if doing,cut-throughs.It reduces tearout to practically zero.

Obviously this dosn't work well on Dado's/depth cuts.....which is one reason to have more than one bx or saw.

Just some ramblings here....not directed at anyone.

>DON'T slam a saw fwd into rr post.Like all tools,show some respect.

>If Right handed....when removing saw,pinch rr post between thumb and index w/left hand.....take your your right hand and grab the saw handle high,right where it attaches to the "back" of saw.With a quick,deliberate stroke pull saw out.After a few thousand times it sorta becomes second nature.BW

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post #14 of 15 Old 09-22-2011, 10:11 AM
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Saw-eeeet,Paul!

I was usin one of ours the other day.Pay attention to exactly how backsaw is sharpened.A very slight taper WRT overall width of blade isn't a problem.IOW's.....looking from end of bx....when saw is pulled back twds opperator....there can be a slight bit of clearence under teeth to table.As saw is stroked fwd it gets down in the track.....makes for a real nice setup if doing,cut-throughs.It reduces tearout to practically zero.

Obviously this dosn't work well on Dado's/depth cuts.....which is one reason to have more than one bx or saw.

Just some ramblings here....not directed at anyone.

>DON'T slam a saw fwd into rr post.Like all tools,show some respect.

>If Right handed....when removing saw,pinch rr post between thumb and index w/left hand.....take your your right hand and grab the saw handle high,right where it attaches to the "back" of saw.With a quick,deliberate stroke pull saw out.After a few thousand times it sorta becomes second nature.BW
Thanks BW, that brought back some memories. It is amazing how accurate the old saws were, some times when cutting I would try to bring the heel of the saw too high but it will keep you straightened out. The best I can remember you could cut a 60 with the old saws or am I having one of my ole timers moments. May it was a 50, my stars that was 42 or 43 years ago or was it longer...

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post #15 of 15 Old 09-22-2011, 10:03 PM
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The saw originally belonged to my grandfather, who was a carpenter.

I remember my dad telling me about a summer job he had as a teenager, helping grandpa and another carpenter build a house. That's all you needed back then: two carpenters and a helper. And this was before power tools were invented so all the sawing and nailing was done by hand.

My dad's job was to fetch lumber for the carpenters. He thought it was going to be a slack job, but ran his butt off all summer trying to keep up!
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