Coping crown molding - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 08:52 AM
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Me too. I put the word document for the second chart in my phone.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #22 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 09:10 AM
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Still didn't work for me, but when I copy and paste in a new tab it works. Must be this blame computer that is just about on it's last leg.

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post #23 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9poundhammer View Post
Copy and paste them into your phone (or computer's) browser. I checked the links before I posted them. They are still good. Try these:

http://www.altereagle.com/Crown_molding.html

And

http://www.altereagle.com/2_Crown_moldin.html

Hopefully they will work now.
I tried again and they do work, thanks for the link, it should help many of the folks who need to understand how to cut ceiling mold.

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post #24 of 31 Old 08-05-2014, 09:28 AM
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Anytime guys. Work safe out there!
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post #25 of 31 Old 08-09-2014, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jjrbus View Post
Thanks for the replies. A cope, like a dovetail seems to be held in higher regard. I liked the challenge and wanted the experience of coping it. But at some point I had to cry uncle and move on. JIm
Don't worry about it. As was said earlier, when applying crown to cabinets, miters are just fine (as long as they are perfectly accurate). Just remember to glue all your miters and apply brads wherever possible (both help to keep your pieces in place).

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post #26 of 31 Old 08-24-2014, 04:17 AM
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Large MDF Coping

Question... we are looking to use six and a quarter inch MDF MOLDING to crown a ceiling.. is it better to cope the inside corners.. or will mitering work just as well?
Just wondering if the size of the molding determines when to cope and when to miter ?
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post #27 of 31 Old 08-24-2014, 08:30 AM
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For me it depended on the profile of the trim, there was one ceiling mold that took for ever to cope so we just mitered it. For me the advantage of coping was the tightness of the joint and less chance the joint would open up when heat was applied. Also with a cope, you can be a little long and it will look like it grew there, with a miter joint you have to be dead on. As matter fact you want the trim to be just a little long so it will crowd in, with a cope cut.

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Last edited by BigJim; 08-24-2014 at 08:31 AM. Reason: added
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post #28 of 31 Old 08-25-2014, 01:53 AM
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To Backer Board or Not?

Thank you BigJim... second question... when using the large, 6.25 inch, crown molding... I am prepping to add Backer Board... 2X4 ripped to match the spring angle... leaving a 1/4 inch gap between backer and crown.

From what I have read this is the best idea if we want no future shifting to cause cracks in joints... would you agree or what is your advice?

Much aligned, - Jack F.
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post #29 of 31 Old 08-25-2014, 09:31 AM
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Shoot the lower section of the crown into the stud and the upper into the backer. I've never used a backer and never had a problem.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #30 of 31 Old 08-25-2014, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackFlack
Thank you BigJim... second question... when using the large, 6.25 inch, crown molding... I am prepping to add Backer Board... 2X4 ripped to match the spring angle... leaving a 1/4 inch gap between backer and crown. From what I have read this is the best idea if we want no future shifting to cause cracks in joints... would you agree or what is your advice? Much aligned, - Jack F.
I've used the backer before ... Cut the angle on the 2x4 then cut 6" lengths and nailed them 16" on center ...
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post #31 of 31 Old 08-25-2014, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Shoot the lower section of the crown into the stud and the upper into the backer. I've never used a backer and never had a problem.
+1...

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