Coping crown molding - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 06-23-2014, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Coping crown molding

I have little experience doing crown molding and do not have a lot of extra molding for this job. I have done coping before and was happy with it.

Most of what I have done was simple profiles in soft material and was being painted, so a bit of caulk was used.

I have a good miter saw, with a nice sharp blade and do ok with measuring the angles. This is a 60 degree corner, so the cope will be 30 degrees, if that makes a difference.

I am looking at this molding and thinking it may be difficult to work with? For inside corners might I be better to just miter them?? I only have 2 inside corners.

I have a friend who is a real trim carpenter but do not know the next time he will be in FL? May be a long wait.

Thanks JIm Master mistaker
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post #2 of 31 Old 06-23-2014, 07:59 PM
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I wouldn't worry about the angle if you are coping. It doesn't matter. If you feel more comfortable with mitering it, and can get a good fit, do that.






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post #3 of 31 Old 06-24-2014, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Cabinetman, I am surprised you are the only responder! If you were doing this for yourself would you miter or cope?? This is in the kitchen at the top of the wall cabinets.
JIm
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post #4 of 31 Old 06-24-2014, 08:10 AM
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Thanks Cabinetman, I am surprised you are the only responder! If you were doing this for yourself would you miter or cope?? This is in the kitchen at the top of the wall cabinets.
JIm
Here's what I'm thinking. Using a coping saw or a jig saw, that profile is fairly intricate. I would likely cope it, as I've done that many times and am comfortable with the handwork.

But, if you can get a good measure, use a miter saw, that would be quick and clean. Here's a little tip that I use to get an exact measure. On a sample, I cut the miter off on one end...lets say the right end, and I measure back a number that's easy to remember...like 10", and cut it off square. Then, when I want to get a measure for the overall length to the miter, I place my little jig and make a mark where it ends on the wall. I then measure from the other end and add 10" to the length...a hair heavy...and that will be the cut. The most it might need is just a skim pass for a fit.

Here's another little tip. I don't usually cut crown flat on the miter saw table. Keeping track which side is up or down takes too much time. And then figuring for spring angles is for the birds. What I do is set my miter for 45. Then I stand the moulding up just like it would be on a cabinet...bottom on the table, the top tipped towards me so the back bottom touches the fence, like it was the cabinet. I insert a wedge behind to keep the moulding from moving, and just cut the 45. Here's another way...
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post #5 of 31 Old 06-24-2014, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response Cabinetman. I will try to cope it, I was not even sure it was copable. Copable is that a word??

JIm
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post #6 of 31 Old 06-24-2014, 10:10 AM
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That will be a chore the cope in oak unless you have some experience.Before you cope,take a pencil and darken the edge you will cope.Gives you a better line to go by.
I do most of my coping with a jigsaw these days but it's a very smooth high end jigsaw.
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post #7 of 31 Old 06-25-2014, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input on this. I misread something and did the first cut wrong. I just can't cope with it. I am using some closeout stock and do not have much room for error or I wood try again.

Very few errors would send me off to buy new molding, so will stick with what I have a better idea of doing. As long as I take my time and pay attention I can do the miters.
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post #8 of 31 Old 07-04-2014, 02:15 AM
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jjrbus, you did not specify if you were putting the crown tight against the ceiling. If it is hanging from the top of the cabinet you can miter then glue and put a brad in the back side to hold it together. If you are not able to get behind it I would recommend coping every time. If you are unsure of your steady hand you could cope close but not right on the edge and then get out your files to finish it. Make sure you cope beyond the 30 degrees though. I always cope past the actual angle to make sure it will not get in the way, there is no good reason not to.
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post #9 of 31 Old 07-06-2014, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have the bulk of my crown molding done with no mistakes. The pressure is off on running out of my close out molding, so can experiment coping the last inside corner.

My first attempt at coping this molding came out well for a 90 corner. A bit of filing and it would have been very good.

My corner is an inside 60. I have searched the web a bit and most instructions are for a 90 inside corner.

This molding is at the top of the cabinets, with no space available behind it.

What would be the right angle to miter the molding for coping??

Thanks JIm
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post #10 of 31 Old 07-06-2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jjrbus View Post
I have the bulk of my crown molding done with no mistakes. The pressure is off on running out of my close out molding, so can experiment coping the last inside corner.

My first attempt at coping this molding came out well for a 90 corner. A bit of filing and it would have been very good.

My corner is an inside 60. I have searched the web a bit and most instructions are for a 90 inside corner.

This molding is at the top of the cabinets, with no space available behind it.

What would be the right angle to miter the molding for coping??

Thanks JIm
How did you wind up with a 60 inside corner? What was the layout? Actually when backcutting, it's only the front edge touching the other moulding, so, as long as there is no bulk behind the coped cut, it will fit.








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post #11 of 31 Old 07-06-2014, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. It is difficult to get a good picture with such a small piece. It fits a 90 corner but opens up on the 60?

My wife is very short, so I made the cabinet so she could reach some of the shelves.
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post #12 of 31 Old 07-06-2014, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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The door is off as I try to repair the bubbles! JIm
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post #13 of 31 Old 07-10-2014, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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I was up and down the ladder, my legs were starting to hurt. As usual after some hand work my hands were cramping up. So I said the heck with it. As much as I would have liked to cope it. I mitered it! Gitter done!! Thanks for the input. JIm
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post #14 of 31 Old 07-15-2014, 09:24 PM
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I had a similar circumstance when doing my kitchen and found the 22.5 degree cut worked wonderfully in those spots. Then again, with a little caulk. With natural wood (that looks great by the way), I'm glad you were able to figure it out.
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post #15 of 31 Old 07-15-2014, 10:42 PM
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No reason to cope that. Coping is generally when you are dealing with sheetrock. When you nail crown up on sheetrock it is possible for the SR to pull in. With a miter that is bad news. With a cope the movement won't matter if you are nailing in the proper sequence. With absolute corners such as you have on cabinets and woodwork there is no need to worry about movement and therefore no need to cope.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #16 of 31 Old 07-16-2014, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. A cope, like a dovetail seems to be held in higher regard. I liked the challenge and wanted the experience of coping it. But at some point I had to cry uncle and move on. JIm
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post #17 of 31 Old 08-03-2014, 10:59 PM
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Here's a source I found a few years ago. I saved the links on my phone so I can refer to them if I ever run into trouble in the field.

http://www.altereagle.com/Crown_molding.html

And

http://www.altereagle.com/2_Crown_moldin.html

I've found that coping almost always turns out the best results. Take a run to a local lumber yard and buy some practice material to master the method. Good luck
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post #18 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 07:47 AM
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9pound, your links didn't work, thanks for trying.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

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post #19 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 07:52 AM
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Copy and paste them into your phone (or computer's) browser. I checked the links before I posted them. They are still good. Try these:

http://www.altereagle.com/Crown_molding.html

And

http://www.altereagle.com/2_Crown_moldin.html

Hopefully they will work now.
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post #20 of 31 Old 08-04-2014, 07:53 AM
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9pound, your links didn't work, thanks for trying.
Both links work for me.






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