Connecting Cabinets of varying depths - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-01-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Connecting Cabinets of varying depths

Hi Everyone!
This is my first time posting. I'm a Junior Woodworker, only 1.5 years in. I've promoted myself to making cabinets and my second project is a built-in closet. I'm trying to keep it relatively simple without suffering in function and esthetics.
My issue is transitioning between a shorter depth adjustable shelf cabinet (15") to a deeper cabinet (17"). I've been using 2" face frames made with poplar as the closet unit will be painted white.
Do I put a spacer between and add an angled piece, keep it skinny here and put a skinny trim, connect a piece of wood to the short depth shelf to bring it flush to the deeper cabinet? I want to do a good job and don't want it to look janky. So any advice would be appreciated!
Im not sure how to post a pic. Will do so once it posts if I can figure it out.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-01-2017, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a couple photos where you can see the depth change.
I still have a few steps before I can insert the bead board in the back and get ready to paint and I will attach face frames when I install.
At this point, I need to shorten the length of the two towers to the right (I changed a measurement on the adjustable shelves on the left and forgot to adjust the remainder). So I need to know what I'm doing with this transition to determine how much shorter I make the total length. Thank you!
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-01-2017, 09:37 PM
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no transitions please ....

Different depths are just fine. Do not try to "hide" the obvious. In Design school we learned "Where this is a gap, either emphasize it or leave it alone". I have no quarter round moldings in my home, I just raise the drywall 1/2" off the floor and run the carpet underneath, for a clean contemporary look.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-01-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your reply!
I should have probably added, that the adjustable shelves are not as deep, because that part of the wall is really shallow due to a door being there. In case anyone was wondering why'd I even do that. Lol.
So I take it to mean I should just use skinny trim here to both cabinets since I won't be able to use 2" here?
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-02-2017, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Now I'm thinking I can just use the same 2" trim used throughout instead of using a skinny trim on this section, but maybe put the trim extending to inside of cabinet?
I've been making it flush with inside of cabinet, extending out.
Here's a pic of trim flush with outside of cabinet, extending in on this wierd section.
If I do this, should I keep them all overlapping to the inside of the cabinet?
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-02-2017, 08:48 AM
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Looks Great!

That would be what I would do. If you can snug the cabinets up side to side it will be just fine. If you can't snug them precisely, and end up with a gap less than 1/8", you could leave a 1/8" or a 1/16" overlap on the outsides.

I have used a 1/4" plywood spacer between cabinets to close a gap since most production cabinets have a 1/8" or so, overhang on the outside.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #7 of 8 Old 06-02-2017, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrappygirl View Post
Now I'm thinking I can just use the same 2" trim used throughout instead of using a skinny trim on this section, but maybe put the trim extending to inside of cabinet?
I've been making it flush with inside of cabinet, extending out.
Here's a pic of trim flush with outside of cabinet, extending in on this wierd section.
If I do this, should I keep them all overlapping to the inside of the cabinet?


I would do the same to keep the consistent look of your project.


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post #8 of 8 Old 06-02-2017, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys!
I just spoke to a cabinet maker earlier today and he says to overlap all the trim to the inside, so that's what I'll do. 😜 He also suggected I use biscuits for the faceframe instead of brad nailer to attaché a full face frame. I'll have to see if I want to attempt that. These towers are about 101" tall. Eeee.
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