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post #1 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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complicated trim cut

Attachment 90546Hello,

I hope someone might be able to help me out. I have my stairs I am remolding and I made a trim piece to finish the stringers to wall. I have included some pictures to help with understanding my problem. I have a stringer slop of 42.5 deg., a 136 deg radius and the molding is 11/16" x 11/16" with a beaded profile. I am trying to butt the joints together or "if necessary" I can cope one profile to fit them. I made a template of the angles and I tried so many combinations it is difficult to remember with one was the closest but I think it was the 22.5 deg. miter cut but the profile of the rising piece was in long gated by a 1/4". any help would be greatly appreciated. Below is a photo I took of my project.

Thank You,
Gene Stout
New Jersey
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 11:24 AM
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I know it sounds counter-intuative, but could you remove the pieces above the cut you need to make, measure the angle and then trace out your new pieces?

Seems to me to be the easiest way to get that one done.
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 12:55 PM
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If your incline angle is 42.5*, then you divide that by 2 for joints that meets a horizontal piece, so the saw angle will be 21.25* for each piece. For piece meeting a vertical piece, you need to subtract the 42.5* from 90* = 47.5*. Then divide that by 2 to get 23.75* for the saw angle for each piece. For small moldings like this it is easier to miter the joints than to cope them. You can cope them, but still use these degree settings.
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 02:56 PM
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^ This is probably a much better answer.
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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I tried what you suggested

The problem is that the trim piece turns 22 deg. at the top or under the lip of the step. I have made a mock up of the angle from scrape wood. It has a an out side corner but it shouldn't affect anything.
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the molding

Pictured here
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 07:13 PM
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From a design point of view the invention the chopsaw may be one of the worst things to come along in the last 50 years, everything is now viewed as a miter. As George Ellis said in his stairbuilding book about 100 years ago "work curved piece to fit".
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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What r u saying?

I guess I'm so pose to beat it until it fits. If you can't help then keep quite.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 08:07 PM
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Sorry to be asking a stupid question but where is the molding to go in the picture? It is may be a compound angle.

George
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-08-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic

Here is a pic that will show it nailed under the open riser. I hope it helps thank you.
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 09stout36 View Post
I guess I'm so pose to beat it until it fits. If you can't help then keep quite.
No Sir you are required to work the piece as required to fit the stair and quiet not quite.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 09:56 AM
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Gene,
You cannot change in two directions at the same time without having to work one of the pieces to match the profile of the other. If you bring the curved piece to level before the change in direction then it is a simple miter, if not then just cutting a miter will not match. Here is a link to an article which may help you find a solution http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/...board-returns/
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Keith

Keith,

I have been working that piece for more than a day. That's what has brought me here for help. I consider myself an intelligent person and extremely handy with tools but there are time a man just needs some help. I see your occupation is a stair builder. I was hoping that someone in your position would be helpful but instead wrote nothing of subsequence to my problem. If you could please help me with my problem I would greatly appreciate it. If not respecfully please move on to someone else's post.

Thank You,
Gene
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you

Thank you! I am reading the article right now. Hopefully this will help.
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
I guess I'm so pose to beat it until it fits. If you can't help then keep quite.
Quote:
I have been working that piece for more than a day. That's what has brought me here for help. I consider myself an intelligent person and extremely handy with tools but there are time a man just needs some help. I see your occupation is a stair builder. I was hoping that someone in your position would be helpful but instead wrote nothing of subsequence to my problem. If you could please help me with my problem I would greatly appreciate it. If not respecfully please move on to someone else's post.

For a new member, who is asking us for help, you sure are quick with the abrasive replies. People help others in a variety of ways and even the smallest comments can help someone figure out their problem, but to be telling members to "keep quiet" and "move on" would, in my opinion, generate no help at all.
Kudos to Keith, for continuing to help by posting articles and explanations, even after enduring your abrasive nature.
Not a good way to start a relationship in a forum if you ask me.
Just saying.

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #16 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 11:45 AM
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From the pictures it looks like its a single miter and not a compound miter but the other poster is correct that if the moulding is changing direction in more than one direction it would be a compound miter and the moulding will not line up perfectly. (The only way that a compound miter will line up is if the shape of the moulding is a circle.) If it is a single miter than the above posts will work. If something is not working I would check your angles again. The measurement that caught my attention is the pitch of your staircase. It's fairly high. Not to say that it couldn't be that high but a normal staircase will be in the 34-37 degree range. It only gets higher if it is the interior side of a curved staircase or if it is framed outside of code requirements (according to the IBC and UBC). Good luck.

Check out some of my custom stairs
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post #17 of 21 Old 03-09-2014, 12:34 PM
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Your mock up helps, but I need to see the actual corner and underside of the step in a picture to know exactly how to answer. From your mock up it looks like you have a wall corner right where the skirt point is, which means it will be a compound mitered corner. You are working with a 27* saw head angle for the wall corner and the 21.25* miter angle I described earlier for the rise to horizontal angle of the skirt board.....if I am seeing the problem correctly.

BTW, patience always prevails over brute force. Use scrap sticks and keep cutting angles in both pieces until you figure it out. It is simple 3D geometry, not some magical trick game.
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post #18 of 21 Old 03-10-2014, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Keith!

After reading the article you linked me to I understood what you were trying to say in your first post. Nothing is as simple as a miter cut and you will have to "work/make" the piece match the raked piece. I just wish you had linked me to that article sooner or had explained it better to me. I have worked the piece like you suggested and it is now installed thanks to you. My apologies for being abrasive but I was expecting a more obvious answer to my problem. Thank you again.

Gene
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post #19 of 21 Old 03-21-2014, 09:04 AM
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Complex base trim cuts around pillar

I'm about to install 3 1/4 base trim in the basement, but can't figure out how to trim out the cement blocks in this photo. They project out appx 2" at the bottom. Carpet will follow the trim install. Any suggestions or options?
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post #20 of 21 Old 03-21-2014, 09:47 AM
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I'm about to install 3 1/4 base trim in the basement, but can't figure out how to trim out the cement blocks in this photo. They project out appx 2" at the bottom. Carpet will follow the trim install. Any suggestions or options?



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