column trim - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-07-2013, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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column trim

So I have a few posts in my basement which I framed out with 2x4. the dimension is 12" x 12". I want to build something like
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_5ItBHJolWT...e+Shower+5.jpg

This would be the first time I'm trying to attempt this.
My plan is to buy some plywood and some trim pieces to finish that.
Question I have is, what type of plywood should I buy and what type trim pieces. Is this something that I can buy from Lowes or HD?

any tips or diy links would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 Old 11-14-2013, 09:55 PM
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From the picture, this is what I have to offer. I will list the materials first. Use 1/4" plywood ripped to 11 7/8" to cover the 2 x 4's. Cover the Corners with either 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 boards, preferrably beveled at the corners. If you don't bevel the corners, then use a 1 x 2 for one side and a 1 x 3 ripped to 2 1/4" for the other leg with a butt joint to form the outside corners. For the base board, use 1 x 8 mitered at the corners. For the bottom rail that shows above the baseboard, use 1 x 6 or 1 x 8, depending on how much you hide behind the baseboard. You may want to put a bottom cleat in behind the baseboard for nailing, but it isn't necessary. For the top rail, again use 1 x 6 or 1 x 8. I can't tell if that rail is narrower than the bottom rail. To finish off the inside of each paneled side, you can buy or make a cove molding or some other beaded molding and nail it to the inside edges of your rails and stiles. Once you have fitted all of that together, you are ready for the crown molding. You can either nail just the bottom edge and the corners and let the top float or install a nailing cleat behind the top edge. You will have to figure out the exact size. Usually it is better to make the cleat a little shy to allow for some finessing into place.

Now, where to buy the materials...I think Lowes and Home Depot are in the crapper for moldings. In Minnesota we have Menards, which has lots of moldings to choose from. You will have to see what is available in your area. Oak is most common and is the easiest to stain and make look nice. Maple is the next most common, but does not stain well and you would have to use birch plywood because most lumber stores don't handle maple plywood. If you have access to a millworks or a wholesale lumber supplier, then you have a lot more options.

This will give you a start. Ask away and we will help you from here.
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-15-2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot for the response. I bought some birch 1/2" plywood and ripped them 11 3/4" each. screwed them to the 2x4's. now as for the rest, I'm not able to find 1x's in birch.

I've attached a file. that is the column I want to build but I want to keep it simplified and not add the lower wider portion. the top design should flow to the rest of the column.

so I need 1x's for the side borders? you said butt join. so I won't be doing miter cuts? I'm wondering if that would look ok.

Thanks for the help.
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-15-2013, 02:10 PM
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We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself, any hobbies, etc. If you fill out your profile in your User Control Panel, list your general geographical location, and any other pertinent data that would be of help in answering questions.


I made all the moulding and bar in this commercial establishment. It's shopmade with Mahogany. If you plan out each detail, and what can be done with a router, and what might have to be made, you can come up with some nice details. You can even make your own crown, using the table saw, router profiles, and stacking them.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-15-2013, 07:48 PM
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Maple will work in a pinch along with birch plywood. Maple is readily available at lumber stores. You will have to play with the stain colors a little and you may need to use a wood conditioner to get an even coat of stain.
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-15-2013, 11:47 PM
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I made these speaker towers out of 3/4 oak plywood and sourced some bolection molding online to frame the opening in the tower and hide the edge of the plywood. I then applied acoustically transparent fabric to the opening to let my speakers blast through. You could use the same ideas that I used.

I made the sides independently out of plywood, edge banded the visible edge and butt joined the the front and sides together.



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post #7 of 8 Old 11-16-2013, 10:15 AM
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I didn't reply to your question about mitering the corners. In my first reply I mentioned beveling the edges as the first choice...I meant mitering. Doing that does put the joint right on the corner....BUT....getting a perfect miter is not easy. If your miter is off even a fraction of a degree, the corner piece will not fit right and the top and bottom rails will not mate to the edge properly. Also, if you don't get a smooth saw cut on the mitered edge, you will have gaps in in the glue joint. Yes, these gaps can be filled and you will probably want to put a small round over on the corners with a router bit, so the gap should not be too noticeable. I am just pointing out these things to you from my experience.
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-03-2013, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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I have a carpenter who will be building the columns for me.. he says we can get #2 pine (to save cost) for the corner trim and birch plywood for covering the length.. I'm concerned that they'll stain different. he says it can be very close.. btw, I plan to stain darker like the picture I posted.

what do you all think?
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