Getting back to hinging options for a framed cabinet with inset doors and concealed hinges.
Its important to note that a euro style hinge needs 18 mil of "crank" to get the edge of the door thrown over far enough to be inset from the frame.
The link that cabinetman posted showing the euro hinge on a fraceframe base plate is one good way doing it when you have at least 1/2" reveal inside the frame. That gives enough room for that base plate to screw to the back side of the frame.
That plate is worth 9 mil and the "halfcrank" hinge that you have to use has 9 mil of crank. Totaling 18 mil
In cases that you don't have room for that plate inside the cabinet there are a host of other options. The easiest would be to have your box part flush with the edge of the frame, use a 0 mil plate and a "fullcrank" hinge. That hinge has a full 18 mil of crank + 0 for the plate you have your 18 mil.
When thats not possible, say your box part is 3/8" from the frame. Common with a 3/4" part centered behind a 1 1/2" frame.
Use a 6 mil plate and the full crank hinge. The plate makes up for the inside reveal so it acts like a 0 mil plate + the 18 mil in the hinge and you there.
So for those cases where you have less than 1/2" you can play with the plate size to get as close to where a 0 plate on a flush panel would be and use a full crank hinge. Sometimes you may have to play with the tab when you bore the hinge when you are in between plates but it's not that hard.
If you use Blum hinges get the cliptop hinge brochure and learn how to use it. Lots of info = good
You will see alot of guys add small bocks at the hinge locations so they have a flush suface to put thier plate but I think that is a bit tacky.
I hope this helps