Cabinet doors too small - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 04:00 PM
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I like this approach

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Originally Posted by penbeckr View Post
Fred my thoughts exactly. I don't think I would attempt to modify the doors themselves. I feel comfortable modifying the opening. I figured I could just attach filler pieces and make sure put something (putty, etc) making the crack where they meet undetectable. This of course makes the opening smaller but I think that will be ok considering the opening of each is considerable and it's not really taking that much away in order to put things away. it is still a lot of work but, I think this is the best idea to still use the doors without modifying them. Anybody disagree with this route and what would be the concerns moving forward with this????
If you can add to the inside of each frame ... all the way around
and sand/fill and paint later I think it will work. Probably about 3/8" to 1/2" per side? It's easier to modify the frame than the door....unless you add on a thicker frame and rabbet the existing door in behind it. .. but that gets clumsy looking. A picture of the cabinet frames will help!

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #22 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 04:16 PM
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If you can add to the inside of each frame ... all the way around
and sand/fill and paint later I think it will work. Probably about 3/8" to 1/2" per side? It's easier to modify the frame than the door....unless you add on a thicker frame and rabbet the existing door in behind it. .. but that gets clumsy looking. A picture of the cabinet frames will help!
Fred suggested that...you probably missed it...
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You might find if you add a 3/8" piece to each inside edge that it would line up exactly with the edge of the undersize door, making the seam unnoticeable. I'm still thinking that's the easy way out.....for the (sink?) cabinet that doesn't have the center stile, you could add one. Put it in so it's removable, in case you need to crawl in there for plumbing work.


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post #23 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 04:53 PM
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@Cabinetman - there was never an intention to inset the new doors. I think that may have been confused with an option someone had stated that I did think about but, doesn't really make sense as you you make perfect point of. I purchased new doors to put up on old cabinets (to right of photo) that match the new cabinet doors (to the left of fridge). I would like to work this situation out to still have them overlay but wasnt sure how to accomplished that. I thought adding some sort of filler strip of wood on the face fronts of the old cabinetry would make it work. Unfortunately can't pay for more new doors budget busted.
If you are willing to consider adding a strip to the inside edge, that can work, but, you will have more of a reveal between the doors. There is a way to make that extra line disappear, but don't tell anyone I told you this.

Take off the doors. Use a peel and stick wood veneer, that you cut it in strips to lay on the overall frames to cover the seam. Just stick it down in the same configuration as if it were face frames. The peel and stick requires no glue, and cuts easily with a sharp utility knife. You can use a combo square and a metal yardstick (sold at HD for less than $5), as straightedges.





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post #24 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 06:18 PM
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I really like Fred

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Fred suggested that...you probably missed it...




.
I didn't miss it.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #25 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you to all who contributed thoughtful ideas on how to fix this mess I have. I am going to attempt adding some strips to the frame and see what that does... It's worth a shot to me to salvage the doors and I have enough filler wood pieces that will work. I was going to attempt some of this this weekend and if all goes well I will post an after pic. Comments will be welcomed (all nice of course lol)
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post #26 of 50 Old 04-18-2013, 09:52 PM
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how about cutting some strips, filling in one or two frames in a more unnoticable place, and seeing what you think? If it were me I would try a good pin nailer and putty it up, sand, etc. one thing to be thankful for is the fact you're painting! one suggestion though, it if won't look too crazy, is to only fill in the non-hinge side of the door opening, I would want my hinges to still go into the original face frame, its gonna split that little filler piece every time...hope this helps, I feel your pain, wrong door sizes are never fun. if they're all the same dimension off maybe a cheap piece of pre-made molding from a box store would work for a filler instead of having to rip all those skinny pieces...

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post #27 of 50 Old 04-19-2013, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penbeckr View Post
Thank you to all who contributed thoughtful ideas on how to fix this mess I have. I am going to attempt adding some strips to the frame and see what that does... It's worth a shot to me to salvage the doors and I have enough filler wood pieces that will work. I was going to attempt some of this this weekend and if all goes well I will post an after pic. Comments will be welcomed (all nice of course lol)

If you don't have a pin nailer or brad nailer, this is one of those jobs where it would pay to buy one. I'd prefer a pinner, but it will make this go so much faster you'll find the money well spent.

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post #28 of 50 Old 04-19-2013, 07:49 AM
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...I would want my hinges to still go into the original face frame, its gonna split that little filler piece every time...
Once the filler pieces are added (glued and fastened) to the inside edge of the face frame, they should be secure enough to carry the hinges. The holes should be piloted, just like they should be on just a face frame installation. If mechanical fasteners are to be used (pin or brad nails), make sure their placement doesn't interfere with hinge plate mounting screws.




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post #29 of 50 Old 04-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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I probably should have elaborated...I would suggest using the pins/brads to hold the pieces while they are glued. The glued joint will give you the best strength for the hinges, etc. But using 2 or 3 pins per piece will really help with the positioning.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #30 of 50 Old 04-19-2013, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Good idea.... I was thinking I might just spend the time pre-drilling and screws for strength.

This girl just might get it right after all.... I am going to take my time and pray for the best.

One thing I did notice last night the will be a challenge... is the doors that are directly under the three draws. They will not be equal in size to the draw fronts. I think if I position the doors exactly in the middle it won't be too terribly noticeable.

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post #31 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 07:42 AM
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Thanks... yes I did think about if it would work inset. instead of adding to the door, my thought was to add a small strip to make up difference in the frame... if possible since they are going to be painted. any thoughts with that idea?
In set is your best option overall butI think adding some material to the face frames will work too. It wont be perfect but it will work. Just remember that whatever you add to the frame you will need to add at the back of all the drawer cabinets so the drawer guides will work. Also think about the bottom of the other cabinets. You don't want a huge lip you have to lift things over when you set things in the cabinet.

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post #32 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 08:06 AM
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In set is your best option overall butI think adding some material to the face frames will work too. It wont be perfect but it will work. Just remember that whatever you add to the frame you will need to add at the back of all the drawer cabinets so the drawer guides will work. Also think about the bottom of the other cabinets. You don't want a huge lip you have to lift things over when you set things in the cabinet.
Some good points. If wood strips are added to the inside edges, the drawers will be required to be narrower. Depending on how the slides are mounted, they too will have to be moved. If a build out from the cabinet was used to set the cabinet member flush with the opening, then more would have to be added to the build out.

On face frame cabinets, I make the bottom rail flush with the floor of the cabinet just for easy access and cleaning.

It might be easier to just cut off the edge profile, and add an edge to the door, and re-profile the edge. That might match much better.




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post #33 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Cabinet Doors too small *FIXED*

Well, it was a long, tiring and sore weekend for me.... I have all but 2 doors hung (the ones above the fridge left) adding some strips of wood to the face frames worked out great in my opinion.... I didn't over think it I just took my time, measured, hung the doors on the side where the old hinges were and then added strips of wood to take up the gap on the other side, top or bottom as needed. @cabinetman... thank you for tip of using the peel and stick wood banding. I think this will finish them off nicely and then they will be ready for painting. At first I couldn't find any that I felt were wide enough since they come pretty standard @ 2" and lower. I finally found a 5" wide unfinished maple.... PERFECT. Just need to wait for it to be delivered. Also, need to figure out the draws still. Probably going to just replace with new draw fronts that fit. Attaching pictures of end result of weekends work.

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post #37 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 11:14 AM
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I'm glad you got things worked out, congrats.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #38 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fred.... all you suggestions very very helpful.
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post #39 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 12:14 PM
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@cabinetman... thank you for tip of using the peel and stick wood banding. I think this will finish them off nicely and then they will be ready for painting. At first I couldn't find any that I felt were wide enough since they come pretty standard @ 2" and lower. I finally found a 5" wide unfinished maple.... PERFECT.
Depending on where you buy it, a usual width is 24" by 8' long. That would be the least expensive way to purchase. As for installing, cut strips to allow an overhang of a minimum of ľ". You will need the overhang to allow for placement. With PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) wood tape, it's like using contact cement, without the smell of glue.

For applying the strips, the outer stiles just lay on top to bottom. For the rail pieces, once you have sized them for width, have a helper hold one edge to the edge of one of the stiles, and mark the other end where it meets the edge of the other stile. You can cut a straight line using a combo square and a sharp utility knife. You may allow a smidgen on the length. Test it before peeling it. You don't want to lay a strip right on the old seam of where a rail meets a stile. In your case by adding strips, your seam will be beyond that. With your experience I wouldn't try cutting the veneer to keep the joint back of the amount of the new add on area.

For trimming the edge, use a plain mill file, like the one to file plastic laminate. You will notice that the edges of the file are milled like a rasp. Lay the file on the edge perpendicular to the face. IOW, when filing off the overhang on a face frame, start with the file on the edge, with the far end of the file tipped slightly up.

Use the edge of the file in short sharp strokes only on the down stroke, to rasp off the veneer. You want the handle of the file held back in the direction that you are filing. IOW, a slight angle of the file to the veneer will cut the edge smoother than having the file straight up and down. Once you try this out, you'll find it's really the fastest way to trim the veneer. If you use a utility knife or a flush trim router bit, it can catch the grain and cause a tearout. Once most of the bulk of the overhang is off, you can go back and dress the edge with the face of the file, at about a 10 degree angle or less. You will get the hang of it pretty quick.





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post #40 of 50 Old 04-22-2013, 12:20 PM
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OK I'm going to take this another direction for a minute. Not to make you feel worse or give you a hard time. I think that if this was your mistake then sure fixing it somehow is the best action. If it is there mistake then they should make it right or they should have some action against them. Even if the only thing is getting it known who they are and what kind of screw up they caused. However depending on the following answers they may be more that can be done then as been. I hate when people get taken advantage of and they except that nothing can be done.

What was the company that you got the doors from?

How did you pay? Cash, check or charge?

Who measured?

What was measured door or opening?

Do the door dimensions match what was ordered?
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