Cabinet door length - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Cabinet door length

I have a built-in maple armoir coming up on the schedule and the customer wants three long doors on the front of it to conceal everything behind it. The left and right side will be top and bottom hanging sections, and the center section will be some drawers and shelves. (your basic California Closets set-up)

My working height is 96" with a 4.5" toe kick/base at the bottom, 4" crown at the top. My thought is that 87" is much to tall for a standard 3/4" solid framed overlay door (two panel), and that it will not remain straight and true. They don't like the idea of splitting the doors (dutch) So my only other thought is to go with a true 4/4 thick frame...?

Any thoughts? Suggestions.

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 10:12 AM
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You have a few choices. If it's a R&S type door, 4/4 may help. I would cut all the stiles from the same lumber in sequence, so the pair on a door come out of a side by side.

Or, you could make the panel from the same specie of 3/4" hardwood plywood and edge band the perimeter with solid wood to profile for the panel. That way, you'll have no end grain to deal with, mitered corners and you can glue in the panel making for a rigid door.






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post #3 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 10:23 AM
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I think 4x4 is too thick for the doors. Push latches will keep the doors flat...not the magnetic kind...the ones with the hook catch that push and release. Pictures would help alot. Rick

Never... I mean always... never mind Rick
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 12:57 PM
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If you could design in some clearance between the drawer faces and the inside of the door, there are a couple of ideas you might try. The first idea that comes to mind is some narrow shelves for toiletries, some belt or tie racks etc. The stiles (vertical members) could be screwed to the inside of the doors and act as strongbacks.

Ed
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate the suggestions, you guys gave me some good ideas.
edp, yes there is inside clearance for additional support if needed. The unit is 24" deep and the middle section with drawers and shelves will only be 16" out from the back wall, so that he can hang a robe and a belt rack or something behind the middle door.

I was helping a friend in a new kitchen today (cherry) and noticed there were two 62" long doors side by side, I had asked him about the length of the doors and he told me the company that supplied the cabinets made it clear in their contract that those two long doors do not carry the same warranty as the rest of the cabinets. When I eyed the hinged side of the door I could see a slight bow in the frame with the apex in the center as expected. Even though the center adjustable hinge sucked it in a bit, I'd rather not be re-straightening any kind of panel before the cabinet has even been used.

Thanks again, I'll let you know what I figure out.

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post #6 of 9 Old 09-05-2008, 09:07 PM
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JD: make your doors with more and smaller panels. IE instead of 2 panels use 3 panels thane you can use a third rail to stiffen the doors. :} if u want email me for contact info and we can talk about it if u want :}:} we iz close enuf
Jack
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-06-2008, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jack, Funny thing is two other companies bid on the job and both said the long doors wouldn't be a problem. The difference between me and them? They have sales people working on commision to come out and do the estimate. My experience is that most of these sales people wouldn't know the difference between a table saw and a band saw and will tell them anything to get the job.

I hate getting call backs and would rather avoid a problem down the road, so I'm meeting again with them soon and will try and discuss other options. I know the doors can be made properly, it's just a matter of a little researching with as little experimenting as possible.

Intellectuals solve problems, geniuses prevent them.
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-07-2008, 08:27 PM
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JD: OK let me know what happens, worst case contact me and I will give ya my contact where I buy mine. No guarantees but what the heck questions are never wrong, unless they are ROFLOL
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-12-2008, 10:30 AM
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I would only do that job with inset doors so the stiles and rails could be 5/4 finish thickness minimum. The maple boards should be wide enough so that the edges will be rift cut for the stiles.

The door pulls should be locking pulls, or at a very minimum, adjustable ball or bullet catches - presuming not one jacket or overcoat hits the door when it's closed.

3/4 stiles and rails are for delicate cabinets in my opinion.

Cheers,
Jim
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