There's a third option ....
The accuracy of rip cuts which is the "specialty" of a tablesaw, is dependent on the fence. If the fence is readily adjustable and will "self align" to be parallel to the miter slots when moved, that's the secret to accuracy. Portables saws usually have a very short fence and not much room immediately in front of the blade making both accurate rips and wider crosscuts difficult.
My recommendation, and how I started about 50 years ago, is a contractor type saw with as much side extension and rear outfeed support as you can possibly manage in your shop space. I started with a wing on either side, then 2 on one side, one on the other, then I bolted 2 saws together and had wings on either side... then I bolted 3 saws together, added a long and wide outfeed/assembly table. I think I'm done now. :smile3:
Contractor saws can be had used for around $200.00 or so. They really don't wear out, so the fence is the critical component. Motors are replaceable and upgrades are easy, unbolt the old motor, bolt on the new one.
Put an extension "fence" on your miter gauge and you can accurately crosscut most material. A sled will work much better with more room in the front of the blade.
I also have a darn nice 4000-09 Bosch work site saw, which is accurate and powerful. The fence is just fine also. It has pull out side extensions and a rear extension that pulls out. Cost around $500.00 new, but
factory recons are available for less. It's light enough to carry around, a plus, if you have to do that. A contractor saw is too heavy. :smile3:
The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Last edited by woodnthings; 05-18-2016 at 05:39 PM.