Building a bar: Need opinion - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 5
View JJDesigner's Photo Album My Photos
Building a bar: Need opinion

Hey guys,

So I am building a bar inside a barber shop (sports shop w/ a bar for watching a good game/fight), and came to a bit of a stump. Being that almost NO floors are even (if only we lived in a world where they were, right?), I am not sure if I should build the toe kick plate separate or integrate it to the cabinet? Its an "L" shaped bar (diagram attached), so I would like to know what is your opinion; build separate or integrate, and why? I guess at the end of the day, I care more about it being easier to install and having it fit nicely.

Note: This will be a stain-grade cabinet w/ wainscoting (as per customer request)

Thanks in advance
Attached Images
 

Last edited by JJDesigner; 07-03-2015 at 06:50 AM.
JJDesigner is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to JJDesigner For This Useful Post:
Chrisayrescarpentry (08-24-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 08:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,885
View woodchux's Photo Album My Photos
Your statement "almost NO floors are even" is your answer. IMO best to add the toe kick plate separately to give the illusion of having a level floor. Checking with cabinet/trim installers will confirm that no walls, floors, or ceilings are level. Be safe.
woodchux is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 09:21 AM
Senior Member
 
BZawat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 1,455
View BZawat's Photo Album My Photos
Whenever possible, I build the toe kick as a separate assembly. Makes it much easier to level up. Also with something like this, I would fasten a few 2x4 cleats to the floor inside the kick and screw through the kick box into the cleats. Then I would cover the rough frame with 1/4" plywood (stained and veneered to match the cabinet, of course) which could be scribed to the floor if necessary.
This only works well if you can hide a few screws in the bottom of the cabinet to fasten it to the kick.
BZawat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 10:22 AM
Senior Member
 
Ghidrah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 766
View Ghidrah's Photo Album My Photos
IMO,
If I were setting the counter against a wall with cabs above and the floor was full of whoops, sagging and uneven settling (often seen in older structures and or ones built during the winter) I'd still build the "real" kick into the carcass but step it back the thickness of the fuax kick to facilitate leveling then apply the faux kick to it.

In the case of the layout shown I don't believe it really matters much, there's nothing to guide the eye to an unleveled plane like a window or line of cabs. For me, if liquid flow is the only concern, (spilt drinks) it would depend on the extent of the un-level over the entire length of the island, including the el. Find the degree of end to end slope then raise the low end by half unless the low end is at the outside corner, if then, you also have the el to deal with and then I'd go for perfect level.

If so then you might end up running ply cleats/sleepers at the low end and then faux kicks make even more sense. It'll take some time but the island will still settle in due to the dead load of the footprint, (it's big and heavy) hopefully the joist cross the long end of the island, if not and you have access to the lower level you might consider reinforcing the floor by doubling up the joists and solid blocking in between.
IMO

Work smart not hard!
Never bite the hand that looks dirty
Ghidrah is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 12:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Rebelwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Odessa,MO
Posts: 1,593
View Rebelwork's Photo Album My Photos
I have installed separate and attached. My choice they will be attached. I personally can't stand a separate toe board. A waste of my time.

If your worried about it being noticeable. Remember the higher the toe board the less noticeable. I always do a 4" leaving 3.5 to be seen, but would go higher if necessary.
Rebelwork is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 08-04-2015, 02:39 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntingdon Cambs UK
Posts: 163
View sancho's Photo Album My Photos
What BZawat said . I would use pocket holes on the inside to attach the base to the bar.
sancho is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
building my basement bar wmc1965 Project Showcase 25 02-27-2016 08:39 PM
Questions about building a bar top AKJeff General Woodworking Discussion 12 03-31-2013 09:02 PM
Building bar stools, little help please. jmccallie Design & Plans 29 09-05-2012 06:01 AM
Model Railroad building, building thread? hands made for wood Project Showcase 19 01-18-2012 08:52 AM
Building new shop - need your opinion mikebuild Design & Plans 9 01-15-2010 05:36 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome