Building a bar: Need opinion - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Building a bar: Need opinion

Hey guys,

So I am building a bar inside a barber shop (sports shop w/ a bar for watching a good game/fight), and came to a bit of a stump. Being that almost NO floors are even (if only we lived in a world where they were, right?), I am not sure if I should build the toe kick plate separate or integrate it to the cabinet? Its an "L" shaped bar (diagram attached), so I would like to know what is your opinion; build separate or integrate, and why? I guess at the end of the day, I care more about it being easier to install and having it fit nicely.

Note: This will be a stain-grade cabinet w/ wainscoting (as per customer request)

Thanks in advance
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Last edited by JJDesigner; 07-03-2015 at 06:50 AM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 08:42 AM
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Your statement "almost NO floors are even" is your answer. IMO best to add the toe kick plate separately to give the illusion of having a level floor. Checking with cabinet/trim installers will confirm that no walls, floors, or ceilings are level. Be safe.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 09:21 AM
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Whenever possible, I build the toe kick as a separate assembly. Makes it much easier to level up. Also with something like this, I would fasten a few 2x4 cleats to the floor inside the kick and screw through the kick box into the cleats. Then I would cover the rough frame with 1/4" plywood (stained and veneered to match the cabinet, of course) which could be scribed to the floor if necessary.
This only works well if you can hide a few screws in the bottom of the cabinet to fasten it to the kick.
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 10:22 AM
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If I were setting the counter against a wall with cabs above and the floor was full of whoops, sagging and uneven settling (often seen in older structures and or ones built during the winter) I'd still build the "real" kick into the carcass but step it back the thickness of the fuax kick to facilitate leveling then apply the faux kick to it.

In the case of the layout shown I don't believe it really matters much, there's nothing to guide the eye to an unleveled plane like a window or line of cabs. For me, if liquid flow is the only concern, (spilt drinks) it would depend on the extent of the un-level over the entire length of the island, including the el. Find the degree of end to end slope then raise the low end by half unless the low end is at the outside corner, if then, you also have the el to deal with and then I'd go for perfect level.

If so then you might end up running ply cleats/sleepers at the low end and then faux kicks make even more sense. It'll take some time but the island will still settle in due to the dead load of the footprint, (it's big and heavy) hopefully the joist cross the long end of the island, if not and you have access to the lower level you might consider reinforcing the floor by doubling up the joists and solid blocking in between.

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post #5 of 6 Old 07-03-2015, 12:42 PM
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I have installed separate and attached. My choice they will be attached. I personally can't stand a separate toe board. A waste of my time.

If your worried about it being noticeable. Remember the higher the toe board the less noticeable. I always do a 4" leaving 3.5 to be seen, but would go higher if necessary.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-04-2015, 02:39 AM
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What BZawat said . I would use pocket holes on the inside to attach the base to the bar.
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