better way to End this Chair Rail - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
View marfil0808's Photo Album My Photos
better way to End this Chair Rail

Anyone have a better idea to end this chair rail or any other suggestions.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0034.jpg
Views:	2632
Size:	71.5 KB
ID:	49051  

marfil0808 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 07:10 PM
Ole Woodworker
 
BigJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Posts: 4,698
View BigJim's Photo Album My Photos
Had the skirt board been installed over the sheet rock instead of the sheet rock being flush with the face of the skirt you wouldn't have that problem. Just off the top of my head I would install a 1/2 thick bull noise that would protrude beyond the chair thickness in place of that thin mold covering the joint. On the skirt side of the bull noise I would install a small cove or small 1/4 round to break up the thickness of the bull noise and also give some detail.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

BigJim

Anything is possible IF you don't know what you are talking about.
BigJim is online now  
post #3 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 07:20 PM
Member
 
Hutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
View Hutt's Photo Album My Photos
Not sure there would be a better way other then changing the backband with something to match the thickness of the chair rail
Hutt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 07:21 PM
Member
 
Hutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
View Hutt's Photo Album My Photos
However it doesn't look bad
Hutt is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 08:07 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
You could just cut a 45 across the face where it dies in.






.
cabinetman is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 08:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,932
View Hammer1's Photo Album My Photos
In situations like this a mitered return is often used so you don't see a plain flat end cut. There are a number of ways to do it in your situation. You could stay on the present angle under the skirt band or you could make it a square cut that steps over the band. I have some pictures of mitered returns. They can return straight back, have multiple facets or be cut to look like they die into another piece. I think you can use any combination of bevels that add up to 90.

A rosette, plinth block or carving could also be used. I have a picture of a stair rail ending that is pretty cool. You could continue the top of the chair rail and do something similar for a real unique look.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	stair rail end.jpg
Views:	2019
Size:	55.2 KB
ID:	49076  

Attached Images
 
Hammer1 is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 08-09-2012, 09:02 PM
Log dog
 
Dominick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast illinois
Posts: 7,935
View Dominick's Photo Album My Photos
I'm not a trim guy. But it doesn't look bad to me.
But maybe just removing it would be nice.

When it's rustic......it's rustic
Dominick is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 08-10-2012, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
View marfil0808's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for all your suggestions. If I stay at the current angle and want to do a return, it is possible?
marfil0808 is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 08-10-2012, 11:18 AM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by marfil0808 View Post
Thanks for all your suggestions. If I stay at the current angle and want to do a return, it is possible?
That wouldn't work out well at the angle. Returns are usually done @90.






.
cabinetman is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 08-10-2012, 11:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,932
View Hammer1's Photo Album My Photos
Do a sample with some shorter scraps of the chair rail. If you haven't cut returns before, there are a couple of things that can help. First, make an auxiliary fence and table for the miter saw. This will show exactly where the blade will fall and provide support so the small pieces don't get sucked through the wide fence opening. Make the bevel cut on a longer piece first, then cut the return off. You can lay the piece face down on the saw and see where to make the straight cut on the back, even with the short point of the bevel. Use a strip of masking tape to anchor the return to the table so it doesn't fly away. Leave the saw down after a cut until it stops.

I often make a sacrificial table and fence to use with my miter saw. When they get cut up, like the one in the picture, I toss them. If you have to make a compound cut, the auxiliary fence will have to allow clearance so the saw can move forward.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	mitersaw backer.jpg
Views:	795
Size:	94.1 KB
ID:	49103  

Hammer1 is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 08-11-2012, 07:07 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,064
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I think it would look better if the trim the chair rail butts into was changed to a larger molding, perhaps the chair rail molding or just build it out with another piece behind it however it would have to be moved forward since it terminates at the back side of the tread.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 08-24-2012, 02:07 PM
Joiner, member 150+Org.'s
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mesquite, Texas
Posts: 30
View notmrjohn's Photo Album My Photos
Is the chair rail the same height as the tread top, or bottom of rail same as bottom of molding under tread? Could you live with a different profile on that rail? A narrower rail and/or lowered a bit? Or raised? is there a match in profile of the bottom of rail and tread mold? Make a new rail from tread mold and top part of rail? A new one with same profile as tread and mold?
Remove the short piece of tread mold and angled skirt trim, mebbee mark it across where it meets rail top and bottom first. Extend the rail, cut and replace the skirt trim. If you could get the top of the rail to match and be flush with top of tread and the bottom the same as tread mold it might look OK. Cept for that abrupt change from black to white. Now all you gotta do is replace all the other rails in the room to match the new profile.
Trim the back of that bottom tread even with the riser, extend the rail and return miter rail so bull is flush with riser, new tread mold coped to fit rail. Extend the rail to back of tread, return miter and cope new tread mold to fit and notch return to fit each other. That's complicated to explain ( and do) Thicker molding should return onto thinner, thinner parts cope onto thicker, looks like rail and tread mold will each have a return and a cope.
Orrrr... If enuff vertical height on angle; New rail notched and whittled to fit over new angled trim. Rail just long enough so 90 degree return miter's "nose" doesnt jut past angle. Or notch and cope the angle to accept longer return mitered rail.
Orrrr... Cut out section of angle, extend return mitered rail through gap so bottom meets top of angle.
Ya know, I gotta stop thinkin out loud this way.
notmrjohn is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
chair rail compound angle jon-- General Woodworking Discussion 4 12-26-2011 09:27 PM
Adding wall block paneling with existing chair rail??? etsherman Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 7 04-26-2011 07:43 PM
TRICKY spot -Chair rail + baseboard meeting 90 degree Door Trim K2a3m Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 8 09-02-2010 09:13 AM
How to end/return my chair rail and top cap at the window/door casing?? RickDel Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 16 07-07-2010 09:39 PM
Chair rail question Rocky RR General Woodworking Discussion 9 06-14-2010 01:48 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome