Best way to cut relief on back of casing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 18
View maniac's Photo Album My Photos
Best way to cut relief on back of casing

Hi all,

I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief.

I'd like to cut the relief 2 1/2 wide and about 1/8 deep. That would give me 1/2" feet on both edges of the casing.

Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?

Thanks
Maniac
maniac is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 06:51 PM
friends = joy
 
A-1 Jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 28
View A-1 Jim's Photo Album My Photos
How about a router in a router table.
A-1 Jim is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 07:17 PM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rumson New Jersey
Posts: 1,530
View MastersHand's Photo Album My Photos
Don't know what your tool arsenal looks like. If you have a table saw set up a dado stack. Set the fence run all your lengths. Move fence over just shy of the overall width of the stack and run all the lengths again. Repeat until you achieve your 2 1/2". Happy Trimming
MastersHand is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 07:18 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by maniac View Post
Hi all,

I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief.

I'd like to cut the relief 2 1/2 wide and about 1/8 deep. That would give me 1/2" feet on both edges of the casing.

Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?

Thanks
Maniac
WELCOME TO THE FORUM

Set up a fence on a router table with a ¾" straight faced (mortising) bit. Allow a ½" space. Set the depth to ⅛", make a pass, turn the piece around and run the other edge. Then, move the fence about ⅜", and make the final pass. The final pass can be set so the bit plows the center.










.
cabinetman is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 07:48 PM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rumson New Jersey
Posts: 1,530
View MastersHand's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by MastersHand
Don't know what your tool arsenal looks like. If you have a table saw set up a dado stack. Set the fence run all your lengths. Move fence over just shy of the overall width of the stack and run all the lengths again. Repeat until you achieve your 2 1/2". Happy Trimming
Cabbie once again got my head straight. On the table saw set blade 1/2" from stack and run all your lengths. Flip board to other edge and run again now move fence again to take out meat left in the middle calculate setting so you can ru flip and run. This way you Just have two settings.
MastersHand is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 08:01 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by MastersHand View Post
Cabbie once again got my head straight. On the table saw set blade 1/2" from stack and run all your lengths. Flip board to other edge and run again now move fence again to take out meat left in the middle calculate setting so you can ru flip and run. This way you Just have two settings.
It can be done on the table saw, but I understood a desire for a router set-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maniac View Post
Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?
Thanks
Maniac









.
cabinetman is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 12-27-2010, 08:06 PM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rumson New Jersey
Posts: 1,530
View MastersHand's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

It can be done on the table saw, but I understood a desire for a router set-up.




.
Gotcha my revelation was when you described flipping the board. This shows the importance of reading the entire post. I didn't read the last paragraph went right for the answer. Sorry jumped the gun.
MastersHand is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 12-28-2010, 09:20 PM
John
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: La Crosse, Kansas
Posts: 3,028
View jschaben's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by maniac View Post
Hi all,

I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief.

I'd like to cut the relief 2 1/2 wide and about 1/8 deep. That would give me 1/2" feet on both edges of the casing.

Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?

Thanks
Maniac

Hi - I think the best way to do it is on the router table. I have one of these bits, about 15 bucks on eBay and it works well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-1-3-...item1e6092890a

Set the bit height to 1/8" and the fence 1-1/4" behind the bit. Run the first pass, rotate the stock end for end and run the second pass.
Attached Images
 
jschaben is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 12-30-2010, 08:11 AM
Really underground garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: mnts of Va
Posts: 2,552
View BWSmith's Photo Album My Photos
You really need to consider tool wear in general when you are in the design phase.Walking through each step in your mind and making good choices in equip,best practices.

In your case theres gonna be alot more wear on router than a TS with dado.Does it matter on onesy twosey?Probably not,but it is a consideration.BW
BWSmith is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Window casing help.. jrichards Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 15 11-04-2010 09:52 PM
Groove on back side of door casing davej77 Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 4 08-29-2010 07:25 AM
Need help making a 'back band' around window/door casing. RickDel Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 9 07-16-2010 10:15 AM
Mysterious large wood carving (relief) curiouscarver General Woodworking Discussion 8 07-03-2010 09:54 AM
Solid Cherry Door, with a Bronze Relief twoartistic Project Showcase 3 02-15-2010 09:22 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome