1x4 Pine boards for wall covering. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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1x4 Pine boards for wall covering.

Hi,

I have a cabin in central Maine that I am doing the interior walls in. Right now there is 3/8 plywood on the interior walls. This leaves me with the option to nail up just about anything.
I have a large stock of 1x4 pine that I would like to use.

One question I have is on spacing. It will be a dry winter time heated enviorment when I put these up. I've delt with cedar siding buckling because they were installed too close together. I'm not sure if I should have the same concern here.

Also, what would be the best way to finish this? I plan on using a poly finish after the wall is complete. Is it ok to just finish one surface of the board like this?

Thanks for your input.

Sid
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 09:33 AM
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Welcome to the site Cid, are these 1x4's just staight 1x4 or are they t&G or ??
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

Thanks for the welcome.
These are just straight. No T&G. They are from a company that makes shipping crates. They are 3 1/2 x 3/4. They have a fair share of knots and dings but are clean and straight. They have a nice rustic appeal with a coat of poly on them.

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post #4 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 10:41 AM
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This is only my opinion but if I was going to use just the staight boards I would go with no more than 1/8" spacing and would glue and brad them in. This should give you a nice rustic look.
Another way is a small dado and splines or t&g them with a slight profile on all edges.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 11:41 AM
 
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I'd break out the router table and ship-lap 'em.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks,
Ship-lap is another good idea. Would I leave a gap or should I butt them up together?
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-09-2007, 01:16 PM
 
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Gap.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-29-2007, 09:30 PM
 
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GAP?
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-30-2007, 09:42 AM
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You could cut your dado's so the boards butt togeather but has a gap underneath then bevel to the corners and but ends of the board and you would have a very nice look.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-30-2007, 10:29 AM
 
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daryl is right
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-30-2007, 11:19 AM
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Thanks youngman, couldn't figure out how to edit your drawing
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-30-2007, 10:17 PM
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I would butt them as tight as you can get them. They will shrink, not swell. They will also cup, with the concave side facing the room. Painting the backs with polyurethane will help slow it down- but not eliminate it. You can also put he bark side of the boards toward the plywood which should help a bit. But the boards are only 4" wide so I wouldn't worry too much about it - especially if you T&G them.

If you decide not to T&G them and just butt the edges, spray cheap flat black paint behind each seam so the plywood doesn't show when they shrink.

Jimc
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-23-2008, 07:50 PM
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cool warning - lol

If you decide not to T&G them and just butt the edges, spray cheap flat black paint behind each seam so the plywood doesn't show when they shrink.
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