I used 2 tractors, 2 jacks, 6 - 4" PVC schedule 40 pipes, two oiled down 2 x 6 planks, and a riggers rope about 50 ft long.... and 1 helper.
The shed was under a dead tree that was going to come down so it had to move toward the yard, and out of the woods about 8 ft and then about 40 ft to the left. The oiled planks were built up using landscape timers, then the rope was wrapped around the entire shed and pulled with the BIG John Deere, 48 HP 4 WD. Then once it was out of the woods far enough we jacked it up and slid the 4" PVC pipes under and let it down on them. We rolled it to it's new location by swapping out the pipes as we went. I could steer it by laying the pipes at an angle while pulling it. I had to move my shed much further than you will need.
That's my story, and yours may be similar.
You should have a Hi-Lift "farmers" jack, and an automotive floor jack, 1 1/2 ton, extra plywood for under the jacks to keep them from sinking into the dirt and various size blocks for spacers.
You will need to get larger diameter pipes than typical 2" water pipe for moving on dirt or gravel. They just won't roll. You could use oiled up planks and push or pull using your tractor. It takes a bit of POWER to get it sliding but then it works fine. The steel fence post in the back won't do, it will either pull out or bend. Pushing it back with the tractor bucket would work. I placed a sheet of 3/4" between the shed and the bucket and screwed it on temporarily to protect the shed siding. If you don't have a loader bucket, you'll have to improvise.
If the trailer bed is higher than your pads, great. Jack it up off the trailer, and use sloped planks to slide it onto the pads, supporting them with blocks of wood or cement. Lay the planks right on the pads to get it in place, then jack it up enough to get them out. DONE.