How to Move / Shimmy a Tuff Shed - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-07-2018, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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How to Move / Shimmy a Tuff Shed

We were gifted a 10' x 12' TuffShed. It's an incredible gift, and it is in great condition. It's going to be home to our lawn mower, garden tools, etc. (I can't WAIT to get it here because it's going to free up a LOT of space in the garage for my tools!)

We are having the shed delivered on a flatbed trailer. We'll need to cut our wire fence and remove a t-post in order to make it so the flatbed can back the shed up as close as possible to the final location... but it's not going to be perfect. It'll need to shift towards the back about 3 or 4 feet total.

What's the best way to maneuver it back the needed distance, as well as working (at the same time) to get it up on the leveled pavers that I have in place?

An idea I had was to attach a tow strap to the shed, as well as to use a few steel pipes as rollers. I could wrap the strap around a tree behind the fence to act as a pulley, and then run the other end to our tractor. We could then carefully drive the tractor forward, which would pull the shed back (rolling it on the pipes) towards the proper location. I'm not sure how to jack it up onto the pavers AND move it backwards onto the pavers at the same time.

IMAGES:
The first image shows the view of the pavers as though you're looking at the front (12') side of the shed. The pavers are set and level, and there will be two more pavers put in place for more central support. The wire fence will be cut to the right of the pipe, on the backside of the property where the cut and splice won't be as visible.

The second image shows the side where the flatbed will come in. We'll cut the wire as mentioned above, take out the t-post (in the center of the picture) and roll up the fence by the garage. Then then the flatbed will bring in the 10' side first. They'll try to get it as close to the proper distance from the fence that we're looking for, but they can't drive over the diagonal pipe, so that'll be the closest we can come in. We probably have to shift it 4 feet to the correct distance back.

Thanks in advance.

-Joel
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post #2 of 16 Old 08-07-2018, 10:43 PM
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I think if you start pulling on it you will tear it up. Somehow you need to get the trailer where it goes and jack the shed up and put timber under it so you can drive the trailer out from under it. Then lower it straight down.
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post #3 of 16 Old 08-07-2018, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I think if you start pulling on it you will tear it up. Somehow you need to get the trailer where it goes and jack the shed up and put timber under it so you can drive the trailer out from under it. Then lower it straight down.

Is it a regular "shed" moving company or just someone with a flat bed doing the hauling? A professional should be able to advise/get the job done.


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post #4 of 16 Old 08-07-2018, 11:04 PM
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I just moved my 8 ft X 12 ft shed

I used 2 tractors, 2 jacks, 6 - 4" PVC schedule 40 pipes, two oiled down 2 x 6 planks, and a riggers rope about 50 ft long.... and 1 helper.

The shed was under a dead tree that was going to come down so it had to move toward the yard, and out of the woods about 8 ft and then about 40 ft to the left. The oiled planks were built up using landscape timers, then the rope was wrapped around the entire shed and pulled with the BIG John Deere, 48 HP 4 WD. Then once it was out of the woods far enough we jacked it up and slid the 4" PVC pipes under and let it down on them. We rolled it to it's new location by swapping out the pipes as we went. I could steer it by laying the pipes at an angle while pulling it. I had to move my shed much further than you will need.
That's my story, and yours may be similar.

You should have a Hi-Lift "farmers" jack, and an automotive floor jack, 1 1/2 ton, extra plywood for under the jacks to keep them from sinking into the dirt and various size blocks for spacers.

You will need to get larger diameter pipes than typical 2" water pipe for moving on dirt or gravel. They just won't roll. You could use oiled up planks and push or pull using your tractor. It takes a bit of POWER to get it sliding but then it works fine. The steel fence post in the back won't do, it will either pull out or bend. Pushing it back with the tractor bucket would work. I placed a sheet of 3/4" between the shed and the bucket and screwed it on temporarily to protect the shed siding. If you don't have a loader bucket, you'll have to improvise.

If the trailer bed is higher than your pads, great. Jack it up off the trailer, and use sloped planks to slide it onto the pads, supporting them with blocks of wood or cement. Lay the planks right on the pads to get it in place, then jack it up enough to get them out. DONE.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-08-2018 at 12:01 AM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 08-07-2018, 11:20 PM
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I would make sure to get the shed as parallel and perpendicular to the four block piles you have as you roll it off the flatbed. Having to only move it in one direction after it has been set on the ground would be ideal. Keeping safety in mind, I would remove the blocks out of the way and get the shed moved (rolled) into position with the pipe rolls first. Once you have it right where you want it, then jack it up and slide the blocks under as you go up. Trying to move things around while raised in the air is not always a good idea. A simple auto pump jack set on a piece of 2" x 10" x 3 or 4 foot long will get you up to where you need to be. A bit of preparation will save you a ton of work.

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post #6 of 16 Old 08-08-2018, 12:12 AM
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Moving the 8 ft X 12 ft shed ....

I'd be very surprised if the shed will roll on steel pipes in the dirt. They work great on concrete, but with any weight on them they will just sink into the dirt. BTDT. You need large diameter pipes, 4" or greater. That's why I suggested using oiled planks. Everyone has some planks they can use or if you have to buy some, they can be reused. FYI, I use old transmission fluid for the oil, worked great. Leaves a nice reddish stain for later.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-08-2018 at 12:18 AM.
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-08-2018, 07:32 AM
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You might save yourself a lot of grief by hiring the move. I bet if you go to a place that sells these buildings and ask them if they would move it they would. They certainly have all the right tools and equipment.
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-08-2018, 09:07 AM
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Info says it is 3000lbs, @woodnthings has given you all of the right things to think about...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tuff-She...12-E/206943701
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-08-2018, 11:21 AM
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I would roll the shed on several steel pipes. If you have only 3 or 4 feet to move it, more pipes can be used to push, lift and square it on your concrete pads. Leveling is important for your door to close properly.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-08-2018, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
Is it a regular "shed" moving company or just someone with a flat bed doing the hauling? A professional should be able to advise/get the job done.
This isn't a shed moving company. Instead, it's a friend who is a contractor and was able to ask one of their truck drivers to do him a favor. The cost for the favor is $200. The cost for the shed moving company is $675. And they both do the same thing - load on a flatbed and deliver to the location, but not in the exact spot desired. That's the customer's job.


Thanks to everyone who is helping out with ideas. Y'all are fantastic! We've got some solid ideas to build on before delivery next week. I think we'll be set to go.

I'll be sure to post some pics if I remember to take them!

-Joel

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post #11 of 16 Old 08-09-2018, 05:00 AM
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about the flatbed ....

They will load the shed, 10 ft X 12 ft on the trailer with the 12 ft length running front to back because of "wide load" restrictions on the streets and highways. That may be a problem when it gets to your site and you don't want that orientation... I donno? If so, you'll have to spin it 90 degrees AND the doors may not be facing the right direction either.

Now we have a new issue, besides just lifting just off the trailer. Further, the trailer may have a "duck tail" ramp on the rear. This means you may not be able to get it as close to the drop point as you'd like ... I donno? If you slide it to the rear it may want to "take off" and keep going down the ramp before you can raise it up, secure it and drive the trailer out from under it. Further, if you do get it raised up .... a significant challenge using the jacks I mentioned and cement blocks without it tipping over and off, that will be great.

You should ask the owner how they got it on the trailer,... I'm going to guess a "forklift" OR tractor with forks. If you can get another tractor with forks to help, that will be safer and much less work. The Hi Lift jack will lift up to around 4 ft from the ground, but then it becomes very unstable, depending on how high the trailer bed is from the ground. You would do well to find a farmer who could help depending on your skills operating your tractor. Farmers know more about more stuff than any other single individual, and they are used to dealing with large, heavy equipment.


Regarding the "steel pipes" in the dirt issue, you really only want to take advice from someone who has actually done this, unlike woodworking where "opinions" carry as much weight as experience ..... hah ...hah... I moved my shed 2 times prior to the last move. I moved a different shed 1 time using the forks on my tractor and the backhoe, not shown, extended out with a rope to keep it on the forks. I am part dirt farmer myself, my grandfather was one so it's in my blood. Y'all be careful now.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+tractor+forks




This would be similar to your project:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-09-2018 at 05:19 AM.
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-09-2018, 01:06 PM
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Do you have a "Jackall" they lift and pull, back on the farm we would have put it on skids, moved it into position, raised it up, removed the skids and lowered it on to the pads.
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-09-2018, 08:09 PM
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-09-2018, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the replies. @Alchymist, I've seen that one before. Ridiculously cool and clever!

The shed will be loaded with the 12 feet going lengthwise on the trailer. We'll make sure that the doors are on the driver side of the trailer. When dropping off, this will put the doors in the proper position.

I'm pretty sure we'll be able to move it using rollers as mentioned above. We don't have dirt here in Central Texas. We have limestone rock... and lots of it. Gotta tell ya, it was a LOT of fun hammering the ground in 100+ degree heat to get those pavers installed. It wasn't a lot of hammering, but in the heat and humidity, it took a lot out of me pretty quickly.

I'm planning on having the rollers on the ground that will line up parallel with the trailer. On top of that, we'll put two 4x4 posts that will go perpendicular to the trailer. The 4x4 supports that are on the shed now will line up parallel with the trailer, so we should be able to move it. It won't be super easy, but it'll be doable - especially since we won't sink into the ground at all.

The trick will be rolling them to the proper location, jacking up, and then placing the pavers correctly underneath. If we're not quite right, I plan to use some wood wedges to help adjust the height.

Here's to hoping everything goes smoothly next Tuesday!

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post #15 of 16 Old 08-14-2018, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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The shed was delivered earlier today while I was at work. My wife assisted in placement of the shed, but the crew was limited by the steel reinforcement pipe in the back corner of the lot. They couldn't get the trailer around it in order to place it closer to the corner location as we wanted. However, they placed it in a safe and secure spot and leveled it properly. It is solidly placed.

I'm going to game plan how to tweak the position... although I'm tempted to just leave it as is. There's some extra space behind the shed where I could place some firewood... or I could incorporate it into a part of a chicken run since it's well shaded.

All I can tell you is that it is HUGE! Walking back towards the garage, the shed appears to be massive. It'll definitely take some getting used to.

I'll try to snag some pictures in the coming days.

-Joel

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post #16 of 16 Old 08-19-2018, 03:30 PM
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pvc as indicated above. either roll it or slide it on the pvc. I once moved an old carriage shed three feet back onto it's foundation. (S drunk had hit it and pushed it odd.) I used a piece of a stump as a fulcrum and a 4x 6 about 12 feet long. Got just a few inches of the beam under the shed sill and put my weight on the other end and pushed. I moved the carriage shed only a few inches at a time, but I got it down with no tractor, truck, or other mechanical assistance. The prior owner had tried to drag it with his tractor and couldn't get it. Took me about two hours to get it back square on the foundation. I had to keep moving the stump and beam from one side to the other.
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