Can I Level This Out Somehow? (Concrete Question- Shop Floor) - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-17-2015, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Can I Level This Out Somehow? (Concrete Question- Shop Floor)

We are upgrading our house to a heat pump and are going to take this boiler out. This is in my woodworking shop and I would "like" to flatten out the raised pad that the boiler sits on and gain some space in my shop. You can see that the forms are still around the pad. Is there any way for the average person to do this or is it out of the question?

Also, does anybody know if there are people wanting used boilers and if so what a fair price would be? The casting/heat exchanger (blue colored portion) is all new as of last year. The burner is from the old unit that was identical to this one. The old one had a cracked heat exchanger. It cost $2,700 a year ago (I didn't pay a was part of a realty deal). I know nobody really uses these much anymore but I thought maybe someone would be interested in it. I thought about trying Craigslist.

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post #2 of 9 Old 11-17-2015, 10:11 PM
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You might rent a jack hammer and chisel out what is above grade and then take a circular saw with a masonry blade and cut into the floor straight lines around the parameter. Then Jack hammer the slab out and fill with concrete.
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-17-2015, 10:18 PM
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If you are lucky that slab was poured after the floor slab was poured and finished. If this is the case this slab won't be bonded to the floor slab. It shouldn't be that difficult to remove. If the floor slab and this slab were poured at the same time they will be bonded together. If they are bonded together it is more than the average person can tackle.
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-19-2015, 11:31 AM
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Nothing a sledge hammer won't fix!

If it is built into the floor, you'll need to bust it all up and tear out all of the wood, then fill it back in with fresh concrete. All easy enough to accomplish.

Were it me, I'd probably just put my bandsaw or a compressor on it. It would also make a great base for a cabinet.
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-19-2015, 05:51 PM
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You can rent an electric jackhammer, it will make pretty short work of it. If you are lucky it is a slab poured on top of floor, if not just level it out with new concrete.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #6 of 9 Old 11-19-2015, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by NickDIY View Post
Were it me, I'd probably just put my bandsaw or a compressor on it. It would also make a great base for a cabinet.
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-19-2015, 08:46 PM
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I've been in the concrete business my whole life and can give you a few pointers if it is fully attached to the surrounding concrete. First I wouldn't use a circular saw with a concrete blade, if this was outside it would be fine, but not inside. The reason is the silica dust, that stuff is proven to be toxic and people can die from it. Rent a 14" concrete saw with a good diamond blade that has a water hookup to a hose. That will eliminate all dust with water. Now the "sludge" that shoots out of the saw will go everywhere, but you can have a helper hold a carpet square right behind the saw and it will catch all the splash back. Then have a third person with a shop vac sucking up all the sludge water. Have a fourth person with a case of beer for all the helpers. Have Windows open and/or respirators for the saw exhaust. Sounds like a lot of work but it goes quick with a good saw. Plus that concrete dust gets everywhere and I mean everywhere with a dry saw. The reason to saw first is, when you jackhammer it out, its to prevent cracks from spreading everywhere. I've seen way too often cracks that go everywhere and nobody is happy. Saw joints prevent all of this. I know its lengthy but it's a good way to go if everything is tied in.
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-29-2015, 07:33 PM
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I know this is from a while ago but I'll add an alternative for the next person doing this....

Originally Posted by Allman27 View Post
First I wouldn't use a circular saw with a concrete blade, if this was outside it would be fine, but not inside. The reason is the silica dust, that stuff is proven to be toxic and people can die from it. .... Plus that concrete dust gets everywhere and I mean everywhere with a dry saw.
All true;

When cutting in new footers for new posts in my basement shop, I was strapped for cash, but I already had a grinder and circ set up for concrete. So I used scrap to build a "glove box" that looks sort of like some sandblaster compartments.

It was just 4 scrap plywood walls with an old salvaged fridge shelf of safety glass for a top (still wear safety glasses). No bottom piece. Glued on 3/4" weatherstripping around the bottom edge of the walls to seal against the floor. Magnet mounted lights inside.

Walls had five holes....

1 cord for saw
1 shopvac hose (vac outside)
1 garden hose (water + elecricity means.... plug saw into GFCI)
2 holes with sloppy fit for my arms; slop served as air intake (with a nice cooling effect, rushing into the cuff of my leather gloves)

Had to cut in small nibbles then move the glove box, but I wasn't doing tons and wasn't on the clock.

I also kept myself on a small plywood platform up out of the wetness on the floor.

Used cheap pool noodles to make a small dam and settling pond on the way to the floor drain. This really worked well, the water reaching the drain was running clear.

I was nervous only about the grinder's wheel shattering or electrocuting myself, but it all went smoothly. I'm something of a dustmask fanatic, and this setup worked so well I didn't bother and did not regret it later.

The disadvantage is time and monkey business, getting it all set up and then cutting just a few inches before having to move everything for the next few inches.

If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-29-2015, 07:55 PM
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I had a slab poured with a center drain

When I had it poured the concrete guys said "You don't really want to do this" .... but I had them do it anyway. Fast forward 3 years and it was time to build a garage on the slab. That center drain wasn't going to work. What I'm gonna do now?

After getting a $2000 estimate for demo and another slab I came up with this "genuis" idea.... After using Muratic acid to treat the concrete and a bonding agent, I laid down 6" wide strips of 6 to 1 Portland crete and sand mix every 4 ft across and level with the outside edges. I worked my way across the slab about 26 X 30 letting each strip set up and working in from two edges. Next I poured a large enough patch to fill in between the strips and level them out using the strips themselves as the runners for the screed board. After all the spaces were filled the whole dang thing was indeed flat and level.

Fast forward several more years the whole thing is still working just fine ... except for a few small areas where you can hear it has separated from the slab by tapping around on the floor. I'll probably open a small area and fill it with more bonding agent and a fine slurry, but it's fine for now. Trucks and heavy dollies on both steel and rubber wheel have done no damage.

Even I am impressed with the results and I did myself at a very minimum cost. I bought an electric Harbor Freight concrete mixer for this job for about $230.00 or so.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-29-2015 at 08:10 PM.
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