angle grinders - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 10:23 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Other useful angle grinder attachments ...

Found this by accident, but some very useful "hacks" here:
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #22 of 28 Old 06-29-2019, 04:41 AM
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I have one of those cheap Harbor Freight angle grinders. They are usually $15, but you can find them for $9.99 on sale from time to time. I use them with low cost diamond blades to cut and shape concrete paving stones. Until now, it never occurred to me to use one for woodworking.

The single on/off switch stays where you set it - on or off. It is easy to burn out the motor through continuous overuse. The one time I burned one up, the housing got very hot. When I turned it off, the switch froze and it would not turn on. For $9.95, I replaced the grinder with a new one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-i...der-69645.html
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post #23 of 28 Old 06-29-2019, 03:57 PM
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never used one for woodworking but i have 2 or 3 in my shop for metal and masonry work
harbor fright grinders work great if you're easy on them, plastic gears work for years unless you force them
i'm bad... i throw the handle and shield away out of the box and use 6 inch cutoff wheels
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-12-2019, 04:35 AM
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I have bought a foot switch. Contains a micro switch Z g15 w22.
Only three terminals com : Com NO and NC.
Cannot quite see how to wire up using three core cable The terminals are screw type rather than spade or socket. Help!
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post #25 of 28 Old 07-12-2019, 06:04 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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A 3 wire conductor ......

Only the black wire goes to the switch. The whites are tied together and greens go to earth/ground. The black comes in to the "common" and goes out from the NO or normally open. When the switch is activated, the NO closes and conducts the voltage through the switch.

This is "typically" how it should work.



The other issue is whether the switch is a momentary contact or a toggle? For power tools you want a momentary contact.... press down for ON, release for OFF. With a toggle, you press down and it stays ON, press down again and it shuts OFF. This will work, but it will stay ON until you decide to turn it OFF, a potentially dangerous situation. The momentary type, is like a "dead man's" switch, where if you step away, fall over or lift your foot it shuts OFF, a bit safer. Like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/moment...xoC2UsQAvD_BwE






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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-12-2019 at 06:06 AM.
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post #26 of 28 Old 07-12-2019, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Found this by accident, but some very useful "hacks" here:
Angle Grinder Hacks. Very useful inventions. - YouTube

It is me, or did others have to turn on the video Closed Captioning to understand what he's saying?
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-12-2019, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for info.Also video on utube. Works OK and will post a pic of set up soon.
Took me some time to find out terminals are Common, Normally open and Normally closed.
I wired exactly as you said. Managed with the screw contacts, but would have liked socket or spade contacts. Made a loop of the wire and this worked OK. I made sure covered with insulating tape and provided card.
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post #28 of 28 Old 07-12-2019, 07:25 PM
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I had a Makita 4.5" & a B&D 7/9", both very good. BUT someone decided they wanted the Makita one night, so I bought a Milwaukee 4.5" which I really don't like. Bad switch design, the gear head runs really hot after a short time. I used both for sculpting wood. You'd be amazed how quickly you can remove wood with a 16 grit fiber disc on a 7" grinder. I use the 4.5" grinder for cutting metal, grinding down welds etc.
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