Table and fence for table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Table and fence for table saw

Posted the start of this in my introduction thread but have made some changes since then. Just revised my fence with square aluminum tube and angle, hand polished with steel wool and rubbed with a light coat of lubricant. Travel is very smooth and the fence is nice and square with the blade. Only remaining items are the clamp and then a wheeled base/cabinet for the saw. Pretty happy with the results so far, the wood was scrap from other projects and the saw was free, only had to spend about $30 on the aluminum and some hardware
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 08:05 AM
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Just a few thoughts. Table and fence look good.

What are you using to clamp the fence to the table?
Will you add some permanent type of measure to the front rail?
Have you considered the wear factor of the aluminum?





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post #3 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 08:24 AM
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Nice upgrade from the stock configuration. Glad to see you've put a decent blade on it too, though it looks like a lot of teeth if you do any thicker ripping.

Please update when you get the clamps done.
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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What are you using to clamp the fence to the table?
Right now just quick release clamps, I will be using a threaded rod with a push block on the underside that will create a clamp with the angle and wood on the square tube
Will you add some permanent type of measure to the front rail?
I wasn't planning on it, I have a few reference marks on my table for common cuts but I always just measured off my blade before because I didn't trust the scale on the table so it's what I am used to
Have you considered the wear factor of the aluminum?
I didn't think it would be that great because there is not much pressure/friction on the rail when moving it, as long as I keep it cleaned and lubricated I don't think there will be too much wear, but I could be wrong. Thanks for the heads up though, I will be sure to keep an eye on that

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post #5 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tplociniak View Post
Will you add some permanent type of measure to the front rail?
I wasn't planning on it, I have a few reference marks on my table for common cuts but I always just measured off my blade before because I didn't trust the scale on the table so it's what I am used to
Have you considered the wear factor of the aluminum?
I didn't think it would be that great because there is not much pressure/friction on the rail when moving it, as long as I keep it cleaned and lubricated I don't think there will be too much wear, but I could be wrong. Thanks for the heads up though, I will be sure to keep an eye on that

The tape on my table saw is a big time saver. Before the tables saw I used a Radial Arm Saw, which needed me to always measure.

Aluminium on aluminium is going to wear. This metal is not self lubricating.

I would get some UHMW tape and put a strip on the angle attached to the fence.
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Aluminum on aluminum is going to wear. This metal is not self lubricating.
I'm aware aluminum is not self lubricating, I use a spray lubricant on a rag then wipe the rails with the rag, was thinking about getting some dry lubricant like a graphite powder
I would get some UHMW tape and put a strip on the angle attached to the fence.
I will look into this tape, I haven't seen this before but it seems like a good option, Thanks
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 09:58 AM
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One source of the UHMW products is Woodcraft. Mail order if you do not have a local store.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...132-thick.aspx

The solid thicker products are commonly used in jigs or as slides for drawers.

You could use this on the fence to be low friction and potentially sacrificial if the blade gets too close.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...-12-thick.aspx
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 10:18 AM
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You can get a flat steel, pressure sensitive measuring tape, that reads left to right, or right to left. You could make an indicator, similar to the type on Biesemeyer fences, and get an accurate fast fence setting.
http://www.starrett.com/saws/product...-Sticks/SM412W





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post #9 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link, I think I will order a roll of that tape and try it out

What would your recommendation be for the scale, on the green face, perpendicular to the table top or on the red face, then build an indicator to drop down for that?
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tplociniak View Post
Thanks for the link, I think I will order a roll of that tape and try it out

What would your recommendation be for the scale, on the green face, perpendicular to the table top or on the red face, then build an indicator to drop down for that?
The red face. It will be easier to sight the mark by looking straight down.

Once you have the tape in place, you just need a small piece of plexiglass with a thin black line drawn across. Drill some holes for mounting and allow a bit of a left to right slot so you can tweak the plate to get it calibrated.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tplociniak View Post
Thanks for the link, I think I will order a roll of that tape and try it out

What would your recommendation be for the scale, on the green face, perpendicular to the table top or on the red face, then build an indicator to drop down for that?
I also suggest using the red surface. The cursor indicator is easy to make. You can use a piece of ⅛" clear plex and on the underside score a very fine line with an X-Acto knife with a #11 blade. Use a black Sharpie and color the score line and wipe off the area around.

Mount it on the fence as close to the tape as possible without it touching it. Drill the slotted adjustment holes as Dave suggested, so you can dial in the measurement. This will have to be done if you change blades, etc.

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post #12 of 12 Old 10-29-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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That's pretty much what I was thinking of, I wouldn't have thought about the slotted holes for fine tuning and blade changes though so thanks for that guys
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