Practice joints - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-26-2020, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Practice joints

Always wondered how difficult a mortise and tenon joint was, so I tried one recently. I now understand why most folks cut the tenon on a table saw. I cut mine on a portable router table. Mortise is 1/2" wide x 1-3/8" long x 1-1/2" deep. Also recently cut and fit my first dado joint (on a 10 angle), something I will be using in an upcoming project. Learned a few things by practising both joints.
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Ken
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 08:54 AM
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Nice result! The more you do the better you'll get at it. Looks like you've mastered it.
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Gary

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hoowasat (01-28-2020)
post #3 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 09:29 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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I cut my tenons on the bandsaw ....

Using the fence as a width guide and a block clamped at the correct length, makes it easy to make the cuts length wise. Then, using the fence as a width guide and a stop block, I make all the crosscuts. These were "after the fact" photos, so no stop block was shown:




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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 02:01 PM
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As they say, "Practice makes perfect". There are many ways to make the cuts and we all have to work with the tools we have.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-28-2020, 01:58 AM
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Not bad at all mate! Guess now it's time to try dovetails eh?


-T
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-28-2020, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Not bad at all mate! Guess now it's time to try dovetails eh?
Thanks, but dovetails aren't needed for the projects I plan to tackle in the near term. If and when I do need dovetails, I'm not going to try to cut them by hand. I'll rely on mechanical guides and spacings.

Ken
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-29-2020, 08:39 AM
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Ken, you did a great job making those joints. I believe you are a pro.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-29-2020, 09:38 AM
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Those are nicely-made joints. Wish my last experiment with mortise and tenon joints had come out that well.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-29-2020, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
Ken, you did a great job making those joints. I believe you are a pro.
Awwww, shux! T'weren't nuthin' at all. Thank you, but I am definitely a beginner at woodworking.

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Those are nicely-made joints. Wish my last experiment with mortise and tenon joints had come out that well.
Thank you. YouTube is a fabulous source for all sorts of instruction and guidance. Watched several videos and did not rely on just one man's directions. Learning the proper sequence for drilling with a Forstner bit was good. Also, chiseling the long sides in several passes so the drilled surfaces serve as a depth gauge of sorts made a lot of sense. Then cutting the tenon AFTER forming the mortise was an ah-ha moment for me. Took my time with it, and "scary sharp" chisels made the task easier. Yep! Learned a lot about sharpening chisels on YouTube, too.

Ken
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-29-2020, 05:48 PM
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Then cutting the tenon AFTER forming the mortise was an ah-ha moment for me.
Hmmm... Hadn't thought of that. The tenon being easier for me, particularly as I have a Delta Tenoning Jig for my TS, that's what I started with. But I can see the advantage of doing the tenon second.

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Took my time with it, and "scary sharp" chisels made the task easier. Yep! Learned a lot about sharpening chisels on YouTube, too.
Yeah, there's no doubt sub-standard chisels were a good part of my problem.

I actually tried the mortise twice. But I was using plain old dimensional SPF and tried to make a through-tenon right up close to the end. It chipped-out on the backside, then cracked. That was in part due to my chisels already losing it and poor technique on my part.

By the time I went to attack my second try the chisels were no longer capable. They were more tearing the wood out than cutting it. I could've done as well with a blunt flat-blade screwdriver

I've got a 5/8 in. Narex mortising chisel on the way. I'll try again.

Re: "Proper sequence for drilling with a Forstner bit": Have you got a reference for that? Kind of hard to see how to get that part wrong. One thing I did learn is I think I can see the value of a fence on my DP for that purpose.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-30-2020, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Re: "Proper sequence for drilling with a Forstner bit": Have you got a reference for that? Kind of hard to see how to get that part wrong. One thing I did learn is I think I can see the value of a fence on my DP for that purpose.
Fast-forward to the 2:30 mark in the video linked below. He talks about using a fence on the drill press. I used a machinist vice clamped to the drill press table since my test piece was so short. He then illustrates why it's important for the Forstner bit to be centered on wood being removed ... keeps the bit from wandering. He drills the ends of the mortise before drilling the middle. You won't have any success trying to drill this opening with standard 82-tipped drill bits.

Standard SPF wood? My test mortise was in piece of two treated 2x4s glued together, and the tenon was made from a piece of two 1-by pine (untreated) glued together. Shoot! The built-up 1-by wasn't even cut square since I hadn't checked my TS yet when I cut that piece. I really like both my DeWalt TS and miter saw, but both required adjustment to bring them into square.

Ken
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Last edited by hoowasat; 01-30-2020 at 05:42 PM.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-30-2020, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hoowasat View Post
Fast-forward to the 2:30 mark in the video linked below. He talks about using a fence on the drill press. ... He then illustrates why it's important for the Forstner bit to be centered on wood being removed ... keeps the bit from wandering. He drills the ends of the mortise before drilling the middle.
I see, now. That makes sense.

Re: The fence. I've been thinking of acquiring one for my DP. Maybe I will.

Thanks for the info!
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"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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