Paul Sellers Wall Clock - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 49 Old 07-21-2018, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Paul Sellers Wall Clock

Let me know if I'm boring you all with my newbie projects! I figured this was probably the most entry-level project in Paul's book, so this is where I'm starting.

First, a little backstory: About a year ago, my father-in-law came over one day and for no reason, and without asking anyone, just decided he was going to hang a clock in our kitchen. Just grabbed a hammer and nail, and put up a clock. It was one of those heinous digital clocks that also tells temperature and stuff. It's been a sore spot for me and I threatened to take it down many times, but the wife didn't want to hurt her dad's feelings. Whatever. Anyway, she accidentally knocked it off the wall and broke it last week. Sweet, sweet karma. I said the only way another clock was going back up was if it was one I made. So here I am, making a clock.

Pic 1
Not a big fan of oak, but it's what we have in our kitchen, so oak it is. Here I've got my stock cut to rough length and width. The panel will be cut to fit after all of this is assembled.

Pic 2
Truing up the ends on my newly made shooting board. This was after planing up the other surfaces to final dimensions.

Pic 3
Laying out the joinery and labeling where I want everything to go.

A question for anyone who has built clocks before: where is a good source for clock inserts? This will probably take a 3" diameter insert. I've found a few sites, but nothing really jumps out at me.
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post #2 of 49 Old 07-21-2018, 11:28 AM
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Anthony, I ordered a replacement movement from this supplier. worked well for me, fast, knowledgeable, quality, price.https://www.clockparts.com/?gclid=Cj...BoCTRYQAvD_BwE
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post #3 of 49 Old 07-21-2018, 11:33 AM
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Anthony, by the way I'm interested in your new project, keep your pictures coming.
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post #4 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
Anthony, I ordered a replacement movement from this supplier. worked well for me, fast, knowledgeable, quality, price.https://www.clockparts.com/?gclid=Cj...BoCTRYQAvD_BwE
This supplier also has clock movements that adjust automatically to daylight savings times.
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post #5 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 09:53 AM
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Is your shooting adjustable so it can go to another angle? (Maybe 45*) Your clock is going to look nice. I use to make a lot of clocks but haven't made one in several years.

Yes, we need lots of pictures. I would like to follow you making this clock.
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Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #6 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Is your shooting adjustable so it can go to another angle? (Maybe 45*)
The top fence is adjustable in case it goes out of square. See Pic #1 for how a speed square can be used for 45's. I found the plans for this shooting board online - I'll have to see if I can find my paper copy to look up where it came from, I can't remember.

Pic #2
Running grooves to accept the panel with a plough plane. Here, I'm using the Sellers "clamp in vise" method to hold the piece. Can't really tell from the pic, but this is a Harbor Freight clamp that has been retrofitted - there's a piece of wood running the full length of the bar, so it's rock solid.

The 3/8" cutter was in bad shape - it took me a good hour to get it tuned up and sharp because I had to regrind the bevel. Because oak is so hard, there was a lot of adjusting for cutter depth to get a good shaving. Lots of lessons learned about the use of a plough plane this morning.

Up next, I'll do a dry assembly so that I can fit the two crossrails and add stub tenons. Considering the massive tenons I just completed for my workbench, this will be child's play.

Pic #3
This is the clock face I decided on. There's a very distinctive craftsman/mission look to the font, which is what I was hoping to find.
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post #7 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 03:02 PM
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Woodcraft or Klockit are good sources. I'm also interested in your project as I'm in the planning stages of a clock or two.

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #8 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Pic #1
A dry fit so that I can get some measurements for the crossrails. Here you can also see the "Poor Man's Beading Tool," which is just a slotted wood screw and a piece of wood. I still need to work the roundover of the bead, but you can see the grooves here.

Pic #2
Using a bench hook along with a holdfast to cut the tenons with a pull saw. One of these days, I need to get a western-style saw.

Pic #3
The crossrail tenons ride in the same groove as the panel. With this buttoned up, there's no more joinery on this project.

Next, I'll measure and cut the panel to fit, then chamfer the edges so the panel floats in the grooves - kind of like a mini cabinet door.
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post #9 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 09:05 PM
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If you rotate the bench hook so that the lower lip drops into the tool well, the pull saw will probably work better. The work will be a little closer to you, which makes pulling it towards you easier, and the pull saw will push it into the fence the way a push saw does when it's set up as you have it now.

I highly recommend looking for a beading plane... I find they show up at antique stores pretty frequently, and I now have three or four of them. They're a joy to use, and look nicer on the shelf than the sharpened screw version. It's a nice thing to have!
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post #10 of 49 Old 07-22-2018, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmishElectricCo View Post
Pic #1
A dry fit so that I can get some measurements for the crossrails. Here you can also see the "Poor Man's Beading Tool," which is just a slotted wood screw and a piece of wood. I still need to work the roundover of the bead, but you can see the grooves here.

Pic #2
Using a bench hook along with a holdfast to cut the tenons with a pull saw. One of these days, I need to get a western-style saw.

Pic #3
The crossrail tenons ride in the same groove as the panel. With this buttoned up, there's no more joinery on this project.

Next, I'll measure and cut the panel to fit, then chamfer the edges so the panel floats in the grooves - kind of like a mini cabinet door.
Anthony, you are coming right along with your clock. Your clock looks somewhat like a clock I made some years ago. Unlike yours, mine wasn't made with hand tools. I made 5 of these clocks, one for each of my four daughters and one for my wife and I.

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Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #11 of 49 Old 07-23-2018, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I highly recommend looking for a beading plane... I find they show up at antique stores pretty frequently, and I now have three or four of them. They're a joy to use, and look nicer on the shelf than the sharpened screw version. It's a nice thing to have!
I'll definitely add a beading plane to my short list. I had my doubts about using the "Poor Man's" version considering this was oak, but it did the trick. Not something I'd consider a long term solution, though. Makes for a good teaching tool, but I doubt Paul Sellers uses this thing in his professional work.

Quote:
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Anthony, you are coming right along with your clock. Your clock looks somewhat like a clock I made some years ago. Unlike yours, mine wasn't made with hand tools. I made 5 of these clocks, one for each of my four daughters and one for my wife and I.
Very nice clock, Don! I definitely want to make more clocks and move into more complicated designs as my skills progress. I really like the mission, prairie, and Greene & Greene styles.

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post #12 of 49 Old 07-23-2018, 09:08 AM
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Don, very nice! It wouldn't match my decor at home, but it's beautifully done.
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post #13 of 49 Old 07-23-2018, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Got the panel fitted tonight. I went with the "pillow" chamfer that has soft edges instead of a typical panel with hard edges. The clock face I ordered is 3" and the panel is only about 6" wide. I figured it would look goofy with hard edges. I selected this section of oak for the panel at the beginning, and did the other layout around it. It has a nice grain pattern.

I'll work on getting the bead finished tomorrow.
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post #14 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 07:59 AM
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great project! looking forward to your door design. going with a pendulum? I like to use merritts for parts.
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post #15 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 09:16 AM
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Nice work Anthony, Bet your lovin your new bench.

You can bead by shaping and sharpening a piece of that Stanley max saw blade you tossed. I did that once to make a profile into white oak, and I know what you mean...it takes some effort, but it does work, and works well when scraping in the direction of rising grain (not so good against the grain). https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008...-scratch-stock


Or use a beading bit in your router.
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post #16 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 09:28 AM
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Looking good so far!
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post #17 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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No pendulum on this one, maybe the next!

Quote:
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Bet your lovin your new bench.
I baptized it with a dent already. Apparently I need my eyes checked, because that's the second time I've gotten wild with a mallet. This time, I completely missed a holdfast. Oh well, it's a bench. It's not going to stay pretty forever.

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post #18 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 11:40 AM
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OH my! you can raise must dents by filling with water, let soak 5 minutes, then damp rag over the dent and iron (no steam setting) hi temp. The dent just may disappear.
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post #19 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 11:51 AM
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Dents are how you know a workbench is being used! At least you can stop worrying about when you're going to put the first mark on it.
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post #20 of 49 Old 07-24-2018, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Light duty tonight...

Finished up the beads by first rounding over with 80 grit, then 120. Next, I ran my tenon saw through the groove a few times to make it deeper and add definition. Then went over the entire piece with 220.

I used my Dewalt palm router with a 3/8" roundover bit on a test piece and got some burn marks. I didn't really care for the look anyway. Next time, I'll try a 45 chamfer.

Bought some Mission Oak stain, but I'm having second thoughts. I kind of want to keep it this natural color, and either semi-gloss or flat. Decisions, decisions. Hopefully the clock insert will get here this week, then I can see how the whole thing pulls together.
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