You purchased some of Woodcraft's turning blanks. The supplier waxed them while the wood was still wet, so that they would not crack while sitting on the shelf for sale at the store.
If you have time, scrape off the wood on the sides as you have done. Leave the wax on the ends to reduce checking (cracks on the ends). Put them on "stickers" (thin pieces of scrapwood) to allow the air to flow underneath and all around the wood.
The rule of thumb is to air dry wood one year per inch of thickness. Waxed wood that you buy in the woodworking stores is not "ready to use" when it is shipped, but it does dry slowly on the shelf anyway. If it has been on the shelf for a long time, it may be further along than the "rule of thumb."
If you want to take chances and accelerate the process, you might resaw the wood into extra thick boards, which would dry faster, but risks twisting, cupping, and warping. With extra thickness, you may be able to plane them flat after drying, if they aren't too bad. Obviously this approach makes for increased waste and risk, but it may be worth it if you are trying to fill an order from a customer. Perhaps you can resaw just a single piece into thick boards to let it dry as an experiment to see what happens before you commit to resawing the remaining pieces.
You can buy moisture meters that measure the moisture in your wood. They range in price. I do not own one, but have read here on WoodworkingTalk that you "get what you pay for." Lower priced models are not as good or as accurate as the higher priced ones.
Many woodturners are used to wet wood. They turn the piece part way, leaving it "thick", then allowing the turned wood to dry for a few months, distorting as it dries. After the partially turned wood is dry, they mount it back on the lathe and turn it again, rounding off the distortions and thinning the piece to make a perfect, dry woodturning.