Large Maple cutting board - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-23-2020, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Large Maple cutting board

While I'm waiting on the Shelix cutterhead for my jointer to move forward on the audio rack I'm working on a very large Hard Rock Maple cutting board, at least it's large to me - 18" x 24" x 2" thick. It weighs about 32 lbs. which is fairly stout, I think. Matter of fact, the hardest thing about doing one this size is difficulty in handling the glued up board.

It will have a juice groove along two edges of one side and the other side will be laser engraved with a family crest. Obviously, the side with the juice groove is the working side and the laser engraved side is for show. TB III is used because it's FDA approved for food service items, plus it gives a few more minutes of open working time.

Here are a few photos up to this point -

1.75" square strips glued -
Large Maple cutting board-008-glued-clamped.jpg

Trimming one end square; it's too wide for my sled so I had to remove the back board and use clamps to make certain it didn't move as I pushed it into the blade -
Large Maple cutting board-009-trimming-one-end-square.jpg

Cutting 2.125" strips on the bandsaw; this is a screenshot from the time lapse video I took as we did the cutting -
Large Maple cutting board-010-cutting-bandsaw.jpg

End grain strips set on table saw extension -
Large Maple cutting board-011-end-grain-pieces-off-bandsaw.jpg

Tomorrow I'll sand each strip, then arrange them to look the best, and then glue the pieces.

There is a live video on my Instagram, about one minute of the glue up. Later, I'll post video of other steps on Instagram.

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post #2 of 27 Old 08-23-2020, 11:14 PM
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so you are making real butcher block - nice :-)
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post #3 of 27 Old 08-23-2020, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, and from what I understand he intends to use it. That's a good thing; we've made over 80 cutting boards and I only know of about 5 that are actually being used. The rest are just kitchen art.

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post #4 of 27 Old 08-24-2020, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Initial layout - probably glue it like this later today. The end pieces won't be used for the final board but they will have screw holes for mounting to the CNC for cutting the juice groove.

Large Maple cutting board-013-initial-layout-2.jpg

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post #5 of 27 Old 08-24-2020, 05:52 PM
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David did I send you a private message?
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post #6 of 27 Old 08-24-2020, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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David did I send you a private message?
No sir. Am I in trouble?

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post #7 of 27 Old 08-24-2020, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Glued all the end grain strips tonight -

Large Maple cutting board-014-glued-end-grain-strips.jpg

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post #8 of 27 Old 08-25-2020, 07:58 AM
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that will look awesome, David, with a big ole honkin slab of ribs on it !!!
I'm interested to know how much it weighs after it is done.

.
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post #9 of 27 Old 08-25-2020, 09:59 AM
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No sir. Am I in trouble?

David
I'll send you another later...
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post #10 of 27 Old 08-25-2020, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Running the cutting board through my 50" planer...

Large Maple cutting board-015-50-inch-planer-doing-job.jpg

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post #11 of 27 Old 08-26-2020, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Cutting the juice groove -

Large Maple cutting board-017-cutting-juice-groove.jpg

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post #12 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 04:57 PM
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nice butcher block cutting board david
so why cut the end square with a table saw and the strips on the bandsaw?
just curious, looks like bigger chance of messing up with a bandsaw
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post #13 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 05:09 PM
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I actually thought cutting the strips on the bandsaw was really smart, way less waste as long as you are set up for good cuts. I do complex glue ups with exotic woods, the amount I waste on the table saw with a thin kerf seems like a lot(at exotic wood prices). I'm going to do some test cuts on the bandsaw next time.

Plus David has a great way to surface the finished product if there are any irregularities from the band saw.
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post #14 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 05:09 PM
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nice looking board!

if this is going to be used - be sure to insist on feet to keep it off wet counters.

a single night's event soaking water up on one side can warp & split a 2" thick end grain.

a finger groove on the l/r sides is also a good touch for handling/lifting.
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post #15 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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nice butcher block cutting board david
so why cut the end square with a table saw and the strips on the bandsaw?
just curious, looks like bigger chance of messing up with a bandsaw
Thanks! It was far more difficult to work this large piece on the tablesaw sled, set up clamps each time, and the biggest reason is that the kerf on my tablesaw blade is 3/32" where the bandsaw blade is 1/32". Plus, the bandsaw cut this very easily whereas the tablesaw with its larger kerf required more pressure to push through the cut. I needed 15 pieces to have enough for the 24" length of the cutting board; the tablesaw would have yielded 16 pieces, which is enough. But the bandsaw yielded 17 pieces and that gives me enough to have extra on each end for fastening to the CNC (16 cuts x 0.125" = 2" lost to the tablesaw blade's extra kerf over the bandsaw blade).

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I actually thought cutting the strips on the bandsaw was really smart, way less waste as long as you are set up for good cuts. I do complex glue ups with exotic woods, the amount I waste on the table saw with a thin kerf seems like a lot(at exotic wood prices). I'm going to do some test cuts on the bandsaw next time.

Plus David has a great way to surface the finished product if there are any irregularities from the band saw.
Thanks, I agree. And I use the bandsaw for this very reason because over the build of one cutting board you usually gain an extra piece or two and sometimes you need that if you 'uncover' a blemish that you couldn't have foreseen.

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nice looking board!

if this is going to be used - be sure to insist on feet to keep it off wet counters.

a single night's event soaking water up on one side can warp & split a 2" thick end grain.

a finger groove on the l/r sides is also a good touch for handling/lifting.
Thanks! It is definitely going to be used but he doesn't not want finger holds or feet. The side with the juice groove is the working side and the other side will have a laser engraved family crest to be the show side. It will get used, cleaned and dried properly, then placed on edge for show so it should be ok for a long time.

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post #16 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 06:23 PM
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Be very careful with that cross blocking. We did this at jakobe and after a few passes through the overhead to flatten it out , it snapped in half...
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post #17 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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The board snapped in half?

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post #18 of 27 Old 08-27-2020, 07:12 PM
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It was a table top and heavy. But yes it snapped right through the crossgrain. Just don't drop it wrong..
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post #19 of 27 Old 09-08-2020, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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The cutting board has progressed through the stages but I forgot to post anything about it - oops!

I cut the outer perimeter down to 1" on the CNC (I don't have a bit long enough to cut through 2" of material). Then used the bandsaw and tablesaw to cut the excess pieces off.
Large Maple cutting board-018-cutting-outer-perimeter.jpg

Then I used my router table to flush trim the sides -
Large Maple cutting board-019-flush-trimming-sides.jpg

My drum sander is wide enough to handle this board but the juice groove was causing issues because the pressure rollers tried to dip down when that went through, so I carried the board to my friend's cabinet shop and it took all of about 6 passes to sand this on his wide belt sander -
Large Maple cutting board-020-wide-belt-sanding-cutting-board.jpg

Then I finished sanding with 120/220/400 and will take it to the laser shop for engraving -
Large Maple cutting board-021-sanded-400-ready-engraving.jpg

As you can see, this Hard Rock Maple can get really smooth if you take it down to 400 -
Large Maple cutting board-022-sanded-400-very-smooth.jpg

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post #20 of 27 Old 09-08-2020, 09:54 AM
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that board is worthy of being on the Iron Chef shows !!

.
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