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Kitchen hood in the making

3K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  furnacefighter15 
#1 ·
I started this yesterday. I had some left over tin tiles from a ceiling project and thought it would look pretty sharp.

The pictures were taken after the initial fit up, nothing was glued yet, neither was the sanding complete.

Currently its in pieces to paint the frame members. I will post when its done, but so far Im pretty happy with it. But if I had more tiles, which I don’t, I would remake the angled side inserts to have the grid lines match the front. It was an oversight.





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#5 ·
I dont think its a residential code requirement. It is for commercial kitchens. And pending what type of cooking its for, may require welded seems.

Most residential wooden range hoods are just for show, and have a fan insert that connects to ductwork.

Mines a little different, totally custom. My fan will be in the attic, and ducted to the hood.

I wanted more exhaust capacity, so Im doing it this way.


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#7 ·
I never minded the noise so much, I just dont like all the smoke that inevitably escapes when doing any time of stovetop cooking.

Combo microwave hoods are the worst for that.

Even a dedicated standard range hood maxes out around 200 cfm with ideal ducting.

After ducting, lucky to get 100 cfm.

I want more like 350 to 400 cfm. So I got a 6” inline fan made by Tjerland.

I’ll be working on the internals this week, so I will post some more progress pictures.


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#8 ·
Currently its in pieces to paint the frame members. I will post when its done, but so far Im pretty happy with it. But if I had more tiles, which I don’t, I would remake the angled side inserts to have the grid lines match the front. It was an oversight.





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Geometry is against you there, unless you run the side panels' grid lines perpendicular to the slope of the front panel, running 20º downward toward the back. If they run horizontally, then only one of the side panel grid lines can match up with those of the sloping front panel.

Nice looking hood, though. Good job.
 
#9 ·
Thanks.

It took me a minute to understand what you were saying about the geometry being against me. But I get it now. Same reason the lines dont mate up now is why they wont mate if re-attempt. IE, bottom grid might, but the next one up would not.

Im glad you pointed that out. I was about to order more tiles to see if I could make it work.


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#11 ·
make up air

Your hood is looking good. something to consider is where the air being exhausted will come from. 400 cfm exhaust is the limit before codes have you add make up air. your house is giving up conditioned air to the exhaust and leaking in unconditioned air that you will pay to condition.

my day job is a mechanical inspector.
Make up air makes homeowners mad and kitchen sales folks don't often mention it.

keep up the good work.
 
#13 · (Edited)
That's why I love this place ....

Your hood is looking good. something to consider is where the air being exhausted will come from. 400 cfm exhaust is the limit before codes have you add make up air. your house is giving up conditioned air to the exhaust and leaking in unconditioned air that you will pay to condition.

my day job is a mechanical inspector.
Make up air makes homeowners mad and kitchen sales folks don't often mention it.

keep up the good work.
Guy comes in off the street/web and make a point we probably wouldn't have considered! ... make up air for a stove vent. We always talk about allowing more incoming air for a outside vented dust collector, but we probably would not have thought about it for a range hood .... I donno?


my experience is perhaps more "extended is required" .... essentially - if the stove/cooktop is x" wide, most kitchen designers / home builders do an x" wide hood.

venting, non-venting, no matter.

30" "hole" for stove/oven, 30" wide hood.

does not do what one would wish it to do.


however what actually does matter is that the hood extends beyond the width and depth of the stove/cooktop - by at least 12 inches.
the fumes/vapors/oil mist escape an "exact width" hood - you get a non-solution to the problem.
get a gander at the sizing of commercial hoods - they work; the home center "kitchen designer" has those credentials only because they've mastered the CAD software, not be cause they know what they are doing.

fwiw, noting that for your own home, one needs absolute control over the kitchen design/build.....
and that gets real tricky.

In my case the range hood and the range were a "matched pair" and the same width, 48" . Not one to trust a single method or system, I installed a pair of bath room vents at the very top of the ceiling just 5 ft above the range hood to exhaust whatever smells didn't get picked up by the "undersize" range hood. It works fairly well, but kitchen/cooking smells are tough to get rid of...... steaming broccoli for instance..... frying bacon...... sauteing onions.... :|
 
#12 ·
my experience is perhaps more "extended is required"


essentially - if the stove/cooktop is x" wide, most kitchen designers / home builders do an x" wide hood.

venting, non-venting, no matter.

30" "hole" for stove/oven, 30" wide hood.

does not do what one would wish it to do.



however what actually does matter is that the hood extends beyond the width and depth of the stove/cooktop - by at least 12 inches.
the fumes/vapors/oil mist escape an "exact width" hood - you get a non-solution to the problem.
get a gander at the sizing of commercial hoods - they work; the home center "kitchen designer" has those credentials only because they've mastered the CAD software, not be cause they know what they are doing.



fwiw, noting that for your own home, one needs absolute control over the kitchen design/build.....
and that gets real tricky.
 
#16 ·
Your right that capture area is critical. My kitchen space is fairly minimal, so comprises were made. It is same width as the stove, and as deep as I could reasonably make it without being obnoxious for the size of the kitchen. It is deeper then a standard hood, but not as deep as Id really like it to be.

Time will be the test of the effectiveness of the design. But Im confident in my skillset with mechanical design.


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#20 ·
I have a curved glass hood apron on my exhaust - quite fancy for me. I though that I would get better capture of fumes by ordering the 36" model for my 30" cooktop. (i.e., hood is 6" wider than cooktop).

Wrong!

All I got was bumping my head on a semiregular basis as the curved makes the wider glass lower at its edges.
 
#22 ·
Good work on this.

From a design perspective I think it would look better if the appearance from the front was consistent in regards to the pieces running vertically.

You have the ends that 1"(?) showing on from the front view, and the 2 uprights that are 3"(?). IMO it would look better to have all of the front pieces the same width, and the end frames tucked under the front on the ends.

In addition the 3 areas of tiles need to be the same width instead of wider in the middle, and narrow at the sides.

Not being critical, and when it is painted you likely wont notice it, but that is the way I would have built it.
 
#23 ·
I can appreciate the design critique. In part the tin tiles are spaced the way they are due to the materials I had on hand. Originally I was going to have 3 even spaced sections, but I did not have enough tiles left over from the ceiling project to do it, so I reset the spacing to what you see and Im happy with it. As far as the side/front corner members for the front frame to have the same width, I guess my taste is a little more minimalist.

Originally the panels were going to be beadboard. But I had the tiles and gave it a go.


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#24 ·
Heres after paint and most assembly. There are 2 frame members that Im leaving out till I have the sheetmetal lining completed.




And here is the start of the sheetmetal liner, and the lighting. The rail the lights are mounted to is removable for future wire access if needed.




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#28 ·
Related:
There is no reason that you must put the fan motor just above the stove vent. You can put the fan motor at the other end of the duct near the exhaust. Depending on the run length and other conditions, it can significantly reduce the vent noise above the stove. In some cases, you don't hear the fan and motor at all, just the wind noise of the air flow into the vent.
 
#30 ·
Heres an approximation of how its gonna look in place. Was doing a test fit prior to finishing the internals.



Heres the internal filter rack about done. On the left side, there is a plate not shown in the picture that is removable to hold the bottoms of the filters and block the portion the filters don’t cover. The hole on the right is for electric.



Here is the adapter mounted for the duct that will go up to the attic. I think Im gonna leave it galvanized, and not paint it, but my better half will have the final say on that.



Hope to have it mounted tomorrow, but Im still grouting the backsplash.


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#31 ·
So here it is mounted, wired, ducted,
and operational.




This is the business end up in the attic.



Hard to tell with the insulation in place, but the 10x10 duct comes straight up from the hood on the right, then its a 7” reducing take off to 6” rigid duct, and 2” flex duct the the inlet of the fan. Then 6” rigid duct to the roof termination on the left.


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