High Gloss Table Top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-22-2015, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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High Gloss Table Top

She wanted a table. A shiny table. I gave her a price, she thought I was to high. She wanted a table, a shiny table. So she found someone online that was going to make the table for her. He wouldn't do shiny. So she asked if he made it would I finish it. Sure, why not.

So she orders the table and he tells her 10 weeks. I would have had it to her in less then 2 and I know what the quality would have been.

So after the waiting period the table was shipped to my shop. As far as I know it was suppose to be maple. That's what I told her. What I got was NOT maple. Not even close. Knotty Pine...for a mirror gloss...right.

And not only was it pine, I don't think this guy could have made these cuts any faster. And I also don't believe he knows what sandpaper is either....

Here's the top. What you can't see is the undulating sanding job. It certainly wasn't put through a widebelt, which is essential for a proper gloss finish. He did a bad job gluing up and then just sanded only the joints, and poorly. It wasn't even close to level. And on top of that it was a bad glue job. Joints weren't closed up like they should be.



A little sandpaper maybe? Or better yet don't use a router bit that had cut concrete recently.


Here's the pedestal turning. Looks OK from here...


But get a bit closer and you'll notice dull tooling and limited use of sandpaper


He didn't even turn it far enough to get rid of the uneven glue joint

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-22-2015, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the sample I gave her for the top. Mirror gloss in Ben Moore "Blue Note"



I told her no way could I do what she was expecting with that top. I wasn't going to use filler to smooth out the top and put a mirror finish on it only to have someone dent it because it's pine. So I told her that I needed to remake the tabletop out of maple. I gave her a price. Beyond fair, really unfair to me, and she accepted. So I made the blank. And since I didn't want to deal with joint creep I used West System Epoxy.

I used the router and a circle trammel jig to cut out a 36" circle


Brought it to my buddies shop and sent it through the widebelt.

Put a routed edge on the top and the bottom and sanded the bejezes out of it.

Earlier I had put MLC Level Sealer on the base, turning and the upper circle. Of course I did this after 1/2 day of bondo, wood filler and machine and hand sanding.

Today seeing as I had everything ready for colored sealer I coated all the table parts. Sanded back hard after the first coat and then put on a second coat.



That's all I have for now. The base sections will be completed tomorrow. I need to put the pigmented coat on then a gloss clear. These will be a shiny gloss. I'll probably put the buffer on them later if I feel it needs it. But that's not the plan.

The top will need more work. After the pigmented coat it will get scuff sanded. Then 3 coats of level sealer that will be sanded back hard after a week of curing. Then 2 coats of Krystal that will be sanded 600 grit, 1000 grit, 2000 grit, 4000 grit then a buffer with a sponge pad and finishing compound.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-22-2015, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well...here we go....

Dry sanded to 800 grit


Blown off and wiped down


Wet sanded to 1000 and wiped down.


Wet sanded to 2000 and wiped down.


Wet sanded to 3000 and wiped down.


Wet sanded to 4000 and wiped down.


Buffed with finishing compound using a sponge pad

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 07:49 AM
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Nice work. The original top almost looks like it was cut from 2x10 construction lumber.
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 08:05 AM
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People never realize you price a job for doing it right. I've been in that situation before and always charge a lot more to fix someone else`s work.
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I wasn't really fixing the top. Making it over was easier then trying to fix it and then put a finish on it to see the horrible results.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 10:16 AM
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Congratulations on a job exceptionally well done!

“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.”
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 10:35 AM
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I trust you pointed out all the faults. You usually get what you pay for. What happened to the pine table?
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 11:19 AM
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I have the highest of respect for anyone able to do a finish such as your's. Finishing has always been my downfall, I did very very little finishing in my career, I did the building and let the true professionals handle the hard part. That top does look good.

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post #10 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnep34 View Post
I trust you pointed out all the faults. You usually get what you pay for. What happened to the pine table?
johnep
The pine base is being used. I did the best I could with the limited time I wanted to spend on it. It should have been less then an 1/2 hour of prep as far as I was concerned for the price I gave her sight unseen.

And yes, I sent her pics of all the 'irregularities' of the table.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJim View Post
I have the highest of respect for anyone able to do a finish such as your's. Finishing has always been my downfall, I did very very little finishing in my career, I did the building and let the true professionals handle the hard part. That top does look good.
1st time doing it. It could have been flatter. If I had an inline sander it would have helped.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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I put the base together and placed the tabletop on it. The base is the same color, it's just in shadow.


Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com

Last edited by Leo G; 08-23-2015 at 03:39 PM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 04:03 PM
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Wish I could do a finish like that! Looks great
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 04:10 PM
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Very professional job Leo! Looks oustanding.

I commend you for being able to put up with that. If I had gotten those pieces the way they were sent to you after what you already went through, I would've probably turned the job down.
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post #15 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
1st time doing it. It could have been flatter. If I had an inline sander it would have helped.
Good grief, that is impressive.

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post #16 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 10:38 PM
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No way I could do a finish like that. I'm lucky if I can get a coat or 2 of poly on and not get drips.

Tact is for people not witty enough to be sarcastic.
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post #17 of 18 Old 08-23-2015, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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The nice thing about this type of finish is you can do a crappy job in application. Just as long as you can sand it flat and not break through the coating you can make it high gloss. You do have to be patient. You have to let your finishes cure. Some like polyurethane take 30 days to cure. I really went to fast on this. I should have waited 23 days or so for full cure. I waited a week for the sealer and 3 days for the finish. I don't expect to have any problems.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #18 of 18 Old 08-24-2015, 09:12 AM
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That's a pretty table! The finish is amazing!
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