Well, there was a lot of tedious prep work to be done on the boards for the top. The finished thickness was needing to be as close to 2" as possible, and we were shooting for 1 7/8". The 4 slabs that were put aside for my project by the supplier were surfaced one side, while the other sides were rough-sawn, and at that stage they were mostly about 2 1/8". However, one slab had a significant hollowed out spot on the underside where it was only 1 3/4" thick, in its rough state. Another had a significant bow at the end. The slabs were each 18" - 22" wide with live edges, so after ripping straight edges, planing, jointing, etc, I had 9 boards to glue up. The areas where the severe hollows were, I ended up making a router sled and flattening out the entire underside in those areas. Flattened any minor ridges from the bit with a sanding block, and then I laminated American Black Walnut boards onto those areas, which gave me sufficient thickness to end up with my intended 1 7/8" thicknesses. I did the same with the one with the upward bow at the end, which gave me enough thickness to plane the bow pretty flat and still have enough stock. Only the butt joint where the laminated boards meet the original boards will be visible, and only if you crawl under the table and examine it.
Normally, I would want to make tongue and groove joints to put the top together, but I did not have sufficient extra width to be able to afford the loss on the tongues. So I did spline joints, instead. Titebond II is my usual glue of choice, but Titebond III affords a little more working time, so that's what I used. Working as fast as I could, I applied the glue to the joints with a 1" wide, stiff bristled, 99 cent nylon paint brush.
And I got it glued up. The prep work and the set-up, coupled with the spline joints, give me a pretty flat top, which was one of my biggest concerns, given that the wood for this table cost $3200. I did not want to screw it up. There is no more than 1/64" deviation at the joints, if that. I will spend all day tomorrow smoothing it out. I have about 3" to remove from the width (which is why I did not bother using blocking with the clamps). Then I will cut a few inches off of each end and make the T and G joints for the bread board ends which will be attached. After that step, I will construct my giant 'rotisserie' to enable me to turn it over. More pics when that is in action.